Thread: Pro XS 4 Stroke

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  1. #1
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    Pro XS 4 Stroke

    Just wanted to see what people with this motor in a 250hp are using when it comes to a motor mate/ transom saver. I am getting a new 250 4 stroke installed on my 2009 phoenix 721 in a couple weeks and have been looking at getting a motor mate but was wanting to see if a transom saver would work with this set up. Thanks

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    #2
    I have a 200 Pro XS 4s and when I ordered my boat in 2021 I also ordered a transom saver.It is a Prorule and I like it very much.

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    #3
    I've been using the DD26 for a few years now. No issues
    21 Phoenix 819 Pro
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    #4
    Dd26.

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael333 View Post
    Dd26.
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    #6
    The MotorMate has worked well for me on my 250.

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    #7
    Is there anything made that would actually take the weight of the motor off the transom like some of the older boats have where it goes from the trailer to the foot of the motor? I looked at it the other day before I dropped it off at the dealer to have the new motor installed and it looks to me like if there was an actual transom saver for this boat/motor combination it would have to be about 6 foot long to reach from the trailer to the foot of the motor.

  8. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by FlaPhoenix View Post
    Is there anything made that would actually take the weight of the motor off the transom like some of the older boats have where it goes from the trailer to the foot of the motor? I looked at it the other day before I dropped it off at the dealer to have the new motor installed and it looks to me like if there was an actual transom saver for this boat/motor combination it would have to be about 6 foot long to reach from the trailer to the foot of the motor.
    Those type put a lot more stress on the transom as the boat dose move around on the Trailor a bit adding to the forces on the transom greatly
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    Those type put a lot more stress on the transom as the boat dose move around on the Trailor a bit adding to the forces on the transom greatly
    This is false. Going further, the toter type do absolutely nothing for you other than maybe take stress of the hydraulics. They connect the engine to itself. If anything, they aid the engine in its ultimate goal to rip your mounts through the transom.
    2021 BassCatt Pantera II
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  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by PMantle View Post
    This is false. Going further, the toter type do absolutely nothing for you other than maybe take stress of the hydraulics. They connect the engine to itself. If anything, they aid the engine in its ultimate goal to rip your mounts through the transom.
    Sorry Paul: While you're entitled to that opinion, I guarantee you if we were to haul a bass-boat down virtually any interstate in LA we could video from behind with each type and have a pretty good example of what's happening.

    Of course... might not have an engine on either of them in this case. That's the best point: No matter WHAT you use, if you tow your rig across speed bumps and sink-holes at 70 MPH you're eventually going to break something.


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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Sorry Paul: While you're entitled to that opinion, I guarantee you if we were to haul a bass-boat down virtually any interstate in LA we could video from behind with each type and have a pretty good example of what's happening.

    .
    Yes, we would. And the rotational force is only reduced by the one going straight to the trailer. From Basscat(There's lots of these BTW) "We get it, because they do relieve pressures on the hydraulic trim systems. They save your trim system from long term wear damage. The short Toters do very little to save a transom, or splashwell area, from damage while towing."
    2021 BassCatt Pantera II
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by FlaPhoenix View Post
    Is there anything made that would actually take the weight of the motor off the transom like some of the older boats have where it goes from the trailer to the foot of the motor? I looked at it the other day before I dropped it off at the dealer to have the new motor installed and it looks to me like if there was an actual transom saver for this boat/motor combination it would have to be about 6 foot long to reach from the trailer to the foot of the motor.
    In addition to what Pugh said, The idea that you can actually take the weight off the transom (other than unbolting the motor and lifting it) isn't possible. The devices used REDUCE the movement and subsequently the "shock" that incurs to the ram(s) and trim/tilt unit and then the transom. The more motor hanging out the greater the forces. Even the trailer-to-engine bars do not reduce the weight, they merely reduce the movement.
    MY Engine Serial Number : 2B411498


  13. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by FlaPhoenix View Post
    Is there anything made that would actually take the weight of the motor off the transom like some of the older boats have where it goes from the trailer to the foot of the motor? I looked at it the other day before I dropped it off at the dealer to have the new motor installed and it looks to me like if there was an actual transom saver for this boat/motor combination it would have to be about 6 foot long to reach from the trailer to the foot of the motor.
    You’re going to get all kinds of opinions and recommendations on which type is better or worse. There’s not single, definitive test that I’m aware of that proves the superiority of one type over the other. I’ve tried both, and regularly use a MotorMate with my Mercury on a BassCat Sabre FTD.
    I also have the tried and true stick type that goes from LU to trailer roller. Both work adequately, but I can honestly say that my motor moves/jolts/wobbles, whatever you call it, much less when I cross railroad tracks, or on washboard pavement, with the old stick type. I’ve tested both types on the same route at the same speed quite a few times. The type which is coincidentally recommended by BCB.
    Go with what your boat manufacturer recommends. If they don’t have one, use whatever you like.
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  14. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #14
    +1

    I definitely prefer a design that triangulates inside the transom brackets to support the engine.

    Motormate, DD26, RMP, even a carpeted 2x8 on edge.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
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    #15
    +1 on the DD26....a bit pricey, but worth every penny.
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  16. Member dean c's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Zone18 View Post
    +1 on the DD26....a bit pricey, but worth every penny.
    It’s a beast…Really good quality.

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    #17
    I have this. $100 less that the DD26 and does the same thing

    http://www.toterite.com/store/p1/Tot...4Stroke.html#/
    2002 Tr-19/24 200 Merc ProXs

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    #18
    RMP makes a very durable, well made one as well for a reasonable price. They also offer a military discount if you happen to be a veteran.

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    #19
    I use TH Marina motor stik work great and are super cheap. I also have steering clips. The aluminum brackets are nice but I’d rather spend $400 on something else.

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by North_angler View Post
    I use TH Marina motor stik work great and are super cheap. I also have steering clips. The aluminum brackets are nice but I’d rather spend $400 on something else.
    Thanks for the tip on the motor stik, I think I'll give them a try. My boat came new with the old school style that extends down to the trailer roller, but it is starting to crack on the aluminum extrusion from trailering I assume.

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