Tips to remove Thru Hull Transducers

[bigmac1984]

Hey guys

I have an older Triton walleye boat, 215x to be specific…. Previous owner used Humminbirds and I have switched to Garmin.

I need to remove his old thru hull transducers so I can mount my new garmin one. Any tips how to remove these? I assume they were epoxied down. These boats have such small areas to work in, not sure how I am going to do it!

Thanks in advance!

[blkfalc4]

2x4 and hammer.....

And technically it's a shoot-thru, a thru-hull has a hole drilled for the stem and cable.

[bigmac1984]

2x4 and hammer.....

And technically it's a shoot-thru, a thru-hull has a hole drilled for the stem and cable.

Sorry yes, shoot thru…. always has aluminum boats so I am new to the idea.

I was told a 2x4 and hammer but there is so little room, not sure I will be able to swing a hammer…

How much force should I expect to be needed? and then can I epoxy the new one in that spot?

[Rudeman]

Sorry yes, shoot thru…. always has aluminum boats so I am new to the idea.

I was told a 2x4 and hammer but there is so little room, not sure I will be able to swing a hammer…

How much force should I expect to be needed? and then can I epoxy the new one in that spot?

Assuming you're not going to use the old transducer, just hit it directly with a hammer and knock it loose. Hand jam a chisel to knock out the bug chunks of epoxy and follow it with a palm sander. Don't bother going too fine because it will stick better after the coarse grit. Just make sure it's flat and even.

Be sure to use slow cure epoxy so the air bubbles will have time to escape before it cures.

[blkfalc4]

Sand down old epoxy and reinstall new.

[MCIPinkie]

Leave it there.

Install a skimmer on the transom.

If you really want it out, use a Dremel, if you have room, to slit the old epoxy, then a 2 x 4. PITA.

If you insist on a shoot through, I'd look for another place to put.

I hate shoot through transducers. There is one in my Skeeter. Wires are coiled up under console.

I would recommend epoxying a Stern Saver to the transom. Screw a new transducer to it. It will do you a better job, and cause you a lot less pain.

[jjue1979]

I would recommend epoxying a Stern Saver to the transom. Screw a new transducer to it. It will do you a better job, and cause you a lot less pain.

I second this idea; I installed a Stern Saver so that swapping transducers again won’t require sealing holes and drilling new holes into the fiberglass. Who cares if I have a few holes in the plastic piece as long as I don’t use screws that are longer than the Stern Saver.

[BroWhoop]

I used a dremmel tool with an thin abrasive blade. I cut it the epoxy a little bit and popped it up with a screw driver. There was no room for hitting with a hammer or anything else.

[bigmac1984]

I used a dremmel tool with an thin abrasive blade. I cut it the epoxy a little bit and popped it up with a screw driver. There was no room for hitting with a hammer or anything else.

I am thinking along those lines too, I have a dewalt oscillating tool with a very fine blade, should slip under/thru the epoxy to at least score it and then hoping it pops up with a screw driver….

Before I did that I was just seeing if there were other ideas.

For the guys suggesting a stern saver, I hear ya, but I already have the GT-36/GT-15 combo ready to go…. And I still worry about the skim transducers losing depth after 30mph

[78Staff]

I used a dremmel tool with an thin abrasive blade. I cut it the epoxy a little bit and popped it up with a screw driver. There was no room for hitting with a hammer or anything else.

I had a devil of a time getting mine out - used hammer/block method first but with limited room it was hard to get a good whack on it. Dremel would have probably worked, but in the end I was able to place a cold chisel through the drain hole (was removed b/c I was adding remote drain) and one good whack knocked it loose. Cleaned up remaining epoxy with small air grinder and bits which also prepped for installing the new one.

[JJohnSind]

I’ve just left mine in there and installed the new one next to it. Never know if myself, or the next guy might want to go back to the previous brand. I’m sure it can be knocked off with a hammer, if you want it gone.

[bigmac1984]

I’ve just left mine in there and installed the new one next to it. Never know if myself, or the next guy might want to go back to the previous brand. I’m sure it can be knocked off with a hammer, if you want it gone.

My issue is there is no room otherwise…. I have to remove 3 from previous owner to make room for my Garmin

[Bass Cat Boats]

It all depends on how much room and access. Since your asking about removal, it would seem access to be limited. Use a short cold chisel and a hammer, first softly, then increase intensity. It all depends on what it’s down with and after a few taps you will know. Some use silicone, and it will come up slowly. Some use 5 minute epoxy and it could have so much moisture absorption it’s softened, and some just release. If it’s a JB Weld or 24 hour style, some type of polyester and glass, then you’ll have to beat that thing out of there.

If you can get in to cut it with a battery oscillation tool, that works well.

[pantherdad]

I believe they are using the 2x4 on bottom of the hull and smacking it directly under transducer. Might look for some videos.

[DrewFlu33]

I removed one out of my old Ranger with a 2x4, different than I expected to do it though. It was exactly the same business not understanding how people do it with lack of space. I spent a while trying to figure out a way to make it work, then after a couple beers and a little while staring at it, it dawned on me that I could use the 2x4 as a "lever" instead. I stood it up vertically, put the lower end behind the transducer, then pulled against the lip of the compartment above. It popped right out. I thought I'd need to smack the top of the board with a hammer to get it loose (and could have if I needed to do so), but it was actually surprising how much leverage I got just sort of leaning on the top of the 2x4. It did come free a little suddenly, so if you go this route be cognizant of how you're pulling/leaning on it so you don't take a spill or smack yourself in the face or something when it lets loose.

I did put a towel between the board and compartment lip to avoid marring or cracking anything there. It probably wasn't needed, but didn't hurt anything either.

[06 SB]

I have removed quite a few. I use a hairdryer and heat up the epoxy for about 45 minutes. Then a chisel/2x4 and a hammer works if you have the room. Some times you can get a dowel through the drain plug hole and hit the transducer from a better angle and or with more force.

[Javelin389]

Since you're not reusing, getting anything you can tap with a hammer. It'll probably come out pretty easy. The few I've done only took a slight tap on a piece of wood.

[mossie3]

I swung a 3# hammer with a 2x4 block probably 30 times taking several breaks, with no luck. The second try without the 2x4 block hitting the TD directly knocked it loose.

[06 SB]

Heating up the epoxy to make it soft is a step most often ignored. I would caution against a heat gun as they can overheat the boat itself or so I have been told.

[RFeyoMN]

I would first look to see if an adapter is available to use the existing transducers with your Garmins. I'm still using the shoot thru Lowrance transducers that came with my boat for Humminbird units. 2D only, obviously.