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  1. #1
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    launching

    After 35 years of running glass bass boats, I have gone aluminum. 2024 Lund Impact 1775. Yesterday was my first launch. What an adventure that was. I’m used to just floating the back, pushing off, and climbing in the front. That did not happen with the Lund. Trailer has to be back a lot farther to float the stern. Do most of you with these aluminum boats use ropes to launch. I do have a set of trick steps on the way, and they may help. BTW, I do like this boat a lot. Fished a bit after engine break in yesterday and found there is not much in the way of bass techniques that I can’t do from it.

    Forgot to mention that all of the ramps I launch have docks.
    Last edited by catdude28; 09-06-2023 at 01:46 PM.
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  2. Member
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    #2
    I used a 20' 1/2" dock rope. Hook to bow eye, then hook the other end to the winch hook. Let the boat float off, pull trailer forward, then pull in with rope.
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Pagregss View Post
    I used a 20' 1/2" dock rope. Hook to bow eye, then hook the other end to the winch hook. Let the boat float off, pull trailer forward, then pull in with rope.


    I do similar as you do. but I use a 30 foot rope attached to the bow eye. then put it on top of tonneau cover and hold onto in truck. back in enough to boat floats and then get out and guide boat to dock and tie up.

    I have done your method when no docks available.

  4. Member
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    #4
    My Ranger RT198p floats up off the trailer, I step on the bow then push off. I would not have a boat i could not do this with.
    Last edited by Johnnyred; 09-06-2023 at 05:54 PM.

    John Walker - Matthews NC

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  5. Member
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    #5
    This is probably not a glass or aluminum thing but probably has more to do with hull and trailer design.

  6. Stocks/Investments Moderator boneil's Avatar
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    #6
    Same here, it took a few times launching to learn the little differences in how a heavy glass boat handles floating off the trailer compared to a light aluminum. By biggest issue is getting back onto the trailer, but I'm guessing that's due to the trailer.
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  7. Member
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    #7
    I never launch my 1625 Lund by my self, my fishing partner holds the ropes attached to the cleats or if I fish with someone who can backup a trailer just sit in the boat and once launched will use TM to a dock. When pulling out at the ramp, my trailer bunks have to be half way in the water (after soaking the bunks totally into the water) Driving your boat onto the trailer will wear out your carpet bunks faster, (Shorelandr uses cheap carpet). I will have the boat pulled into the trailer until I can clip it to the winch and then just reel it in and onto the trailer. Did you get the rear flip-up deck/seats and dual consoles with your boat ? I did and mine fishes almost like a small bass boat.
    BTW if you need trailer parts, try easternmarine.com, they have all the parts needed that are impossible to find in Ontario, ask me how I know !

  8. Member
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    #8
    Franco, I fish alone mostly, so I have to figure out the best way to launch. I did get the XS model with full windshield. I spent enough time in it yesterday to know that I can do most everything that I could in the bass boat, except for skipping when the boat is perpendicular to the target. The bow has to be nearly facing the target to do and your motion has to be to the right of the trolling motor. The Bass Cats that I owned were sensational for any skipping because of the forward position of the foot pedal.
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    #9
    Launch deep and load shallow is the best way I have found in my RT178. Fish alone 98% of the time and no ropes needed.

  10. DINK CATCHER
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    #10
    I had ultimate bunk boards on my Tracker trailer and they were amazing for loading and unloading. As long as the prop could get a bite of water that boat was coming off and going on the trailer. Slick bunks are also way more forgiving if you need to let the boat "fall into the groove" when loading. They honestly made me look a lot better than I really was at loading that Tracker that most will agree can be notoriously hard to load properly on the trailer especially on less than perfect ramps. Only downside to slick bunks is depending on the boat you might have to start the big motor and put it in gear when unhooking the winch strap and when loading leave it in gear while you hook up the winch strap. I keep threatening to do the slick bunk conversion on my Xpress trailer.
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  11. Member
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    #11
    I'm normally by myself. I hook a rope to the bow eye and the other end to my truck. I back in till the boat floats off then use the rope to tie to the dock while I park the truck. I use the same rope to pull the boat onto the trailer then winch it tight. That way I'm not climbing off the front of the boat while it's up on the trailer and risking falling with nobody around to help me.

  12. Member
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    #12
    If the ramp isn't crowded and has a dock I just tie a rope (I'd guess 20 feet long) on a rear cleat on the boat and lay it up on the bow. I back the trailer in, grab the rope off the bow, tie it to a cleat on the dock, unhook the winch strap, back the trailer a little more and "send it". The boat will swing away from the dock. If it's crowded.....there's a boat on a ramp next to mine I'll just lead the boat off the trailer so it doesn't swing around and get near anyone elses boat. It's quicker to just send it, but takes more space. Having the rope tied to the rear cleat is best when leading the boat off the trailer by hand, because you're pulling back from the rear. It's also best on the rear clean when "sending" it since the rope won't get caught on a fender or guide. If I had a fiberglass boat I'd just lead it off the trailer. It's not going to hurt my tin tub to bounce off a dock. As said earlier I take precautions to make sure it doesn't bounce off, or even get near anyone elses boat.

    To load I tie it at the end of the dock, back my trailer in all the way to wet the bunks, then pull out until 1/2 the bunks are submerged. It loads easily with little throttle on the wet bunks. I reach over the bow, hook up the winch strap then climb out. I'm 59, and still agile enough so that this isn't a problem. I'll come up with a different method as I get older.


    Note, for loading 1/2 of the bunks submerged works regardless of how steep or flat a ramp is. Just looking at how deep the fenders are doesn't work. That changes due to the slope of the ramp.

  13. Member
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    #13
    Thanks everybody. Looks like I will have to revert to using a rope.
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  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by catdude28 View Post
    Thanks everybody. Looks like I will have to revert to using a rope.
    Some of my ramps a 25 ft rope was not long enough. 50 will not leave you short. FYI.
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  15. Member
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    #15
    I also added Shorelandr load guides to the trailer, makes loading so much easier when its windy. On the road the guides vibrate, so to keep them from wearing out the paint, install them about 1 inch away on both sides of the boat.

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    #16
    Been launching solo for years. Most of the ramps in So Cal, and Russo’s on the Cali Delta, were steep and deep enough to not have to get the feet wet. Now out at Mohave and Mead, not so much. Regardless, I agree with billwvu05 above - deeper to launch, shallower to load, and drive it off and on.

    I back in far enough that my Z521 can drive off the trailer, but keep it hooked until I’m ready to hop on and drive it off. I have a Trick Step, so when I’m in position I get on the tongue, unhook, climb aboard, and drive it off. I pull it over to the courtesy dock and tie off, then go park the vehicle. Pretty simple and easy.

    Did the same with my Z20 before, and my Tracker before that.

  17. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #17
    99% of the time I launch by myself. Once down to the water:
    Unhook the winch
    Hook the loop of a heavy rope to the winch strap.
    Hook the other end of the rope to my seat post. (I do this as it makes retrieving /unhooking the rope easier.)
    Back in slowly and let the boat slide off the trailer.
    Pull forward slightly.
    Set the Talons down
    Unhook the rope from the winch strap
    tie the rope off on a cleat on the dock
    Park the truck.
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  18. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by catdude28 View Post
    After 35 years of running glass bass boats, I have gone aluminum. 2024 Lund Impact 1775. Yesterday was my first launch. What an adventure that was. I’m used to just floating the back, pushing off, and climbing in the front. That did not happen with the Lund. Trailer has to be back a lot farther to float the stern. Do most of you with these aluminum boats use ropes to launch. I do have a set of trick steps on the way, and they may help. BTW, I do like this boat a lot. Fished a bit after engine break in yesterday and found there is not much in the way of bass techniques that I can’t do from it.

    Forgot to mention that all of the ramps I launch have docks.
    Wow! Cat this really surprised me! I will say with the market the way it is I IF I were to ever purchase again it most likely be aluminum. I am known to keep boats awhile. I own cat when they wasn't popular first in 89. But honestly the upkeep is much these days. I love the ride of fiberglass but the aluminum has had me thinking for awhile know
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  19. Member
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    #19
    I had difficulty launching and loading until I put another pair of boards on the trailer. Mahvelous.
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  20. Member
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    #20
    It is just not that hard. Use rope. Tie to boat and trailer. Float boat off. Pull up and get out of truck. Tie off boat. Park truck. ⁵ easy peasey....
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