Sea Star steering question

[blakes52]

i have a lake and bay 17' with a 135 optimax on it currently, it has sea star steering currently but it has a bad seal. My question is... is this steering Sea Star model number HC5345 worth fixing if i am going to repower to a 250/300 pro xs 4 stroke mercury in the future? (or am i better off redoing to better system and selling current setup)
(BTW this boat is new to me and is a 1999 so i dont know exactly how old this setup is)

see the pictures attached for more info and insight.
thank you!

[WVBullet]

The HC5345 is a good system. Some use that with 300’s. The seal kit for the HC5345 is HS5157. I have a 300xs, but I have the HC6345 which is a beefed up HC5345. You can upgrade or just put a seal kit in and be done. A seal kit would be a much cheaper route.

[mikesxpress]

Go to the SeaStar site and it has a chart to determine the correct unit for your engine application.

[bgibson]

Fix the seal (they call it a gland) not a bad job and it is cost effective. The Sea Star model number HC5345 is what comes on most 250hp applications.

[BassinB]

I just did the seals on my HC5345 yesterday. Took 1 hour and 2 beers. First set of seals in 20 years on my Champion with 225. I would say thats a pretty reliable unit.

[Islands]

Replacing the seal should be fine for the 135, but if I was putting 250/300 on a 17'er I would be replacing the complete steering system.

[alli ss]

If you got a brand new system recommended for your new 250 it would be the exact same thing you have. What the issue is you have overkill on your 135 and its making you think its not adequate

[blakes52]

thank you for all the advice! i assumed it was overkill for what i have now but since the boat does 60 with a 135hp i want to be sure i will be able to use this steering for 80+ if and when i go up. just dont want to put in another $100 pr so if i am going to have to change the system in the near future

[Mike2718]

thank you for all the advice! i assumed it was overkill for what i have now but since the boat does 60 with a 135hp i want to be sure i will be able to use this steering for 80+ if and when i go up. just dont want to put in another $100 pr so if i am going to have to change the system in the near future

You can take the gland to a hydraulic shop and they can match the seals for you. That’s what we did when I gave my nephew my boat. The cylinder developed a slight leak and I told him to take it to a hydraulic shop. They matched the seals and it only cost him $2 for each seal. He hasn’t had any leaks in about 4 years.

[WVBullet]

You can take the gland to a hydraulic shop and they can match the seals for you. That’s what we did when I gave my nephew my boat. The cylinder developed a slight leak and I told him to take it to a hydraulic shop. They matched the seals and it only cost him $2 for each seal. He hasn’t had any leaks in about 4 years.

This^^^^. Nitrile seals is what is used in the kits. A hydraulic shop will match the exact seals and save you a bunch. Plus they will be a higher grade nitrile seal. They are compatible with a variety of fluids.

[blakes52]

thanks, already found a couple shops on google, gonna give them a call tomorrow. This would mean i wouldnt need to but the new end caps? Just replace the inner seal? if that is the case then all i should need is the tool to remove the "caps" and the hose to rebleed, right?

[WVBullet]

Take your two old end caps and they’ll replace the seals in both. Then reuse them. The end caps are aluminum. As long as they are in good shape, they can be reused over and over.

[WVBullet]

Yes, just get the tool for cap removal and hose kit to fill the helm. Inspect your end caps for cracks and if all is ok reuse them. Change your seals, fill and bleed. I like to use tubing on the bleeders down to a bucket or jug to keep the mess to a minimum. Also wrap a towel around the helm and one on the floor to soak up any drips. Don’t want it on the carpet. It sure does make it nice if you have a buddy to assist. You could fill and bleed by yourself, but a buddy makes the job so much easier.

[headhigh]

I just did the seals on my HC5345 yesterday. Took 1 hour and 2 beers. First set of seals in 20 years on my Champion with 225. I would say thats a pretty reliable unit.

Your ratio is perfect for Saturday afternoon boat maintenance. However, after 3 hours at this ratio we recommend not doing any work to "critical" systems on the boat.

[Mike2718]

thanks, already found a couple shops on google, gonna give them a call tomorrow. This would mean i wouldnt need to but the new end caps? Just replace the inner seal? if that is the case then all i should need is the tool to remove the "caps" and the hose to rebleed, right?

Here is the tool I used. You may to use a lot of force, sometimes those glands are very tight. It helps to put a pipe over the wrench handle so you can get some extra leverage. It also helps to have someone push in on the wrench while the other person loosens the gland. The pins on the wrench have a tendency to slip out of the holes on the gland.
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjust...nch-36554.html

[buster502]

where are you guys getting the seals at,i looked all over Indianapolis and never found them and i had to use a small pipe wrench to get my end caps off,i ended up buying the kit and doing it

[Fatshaft Merc]

As long as your system is the 1500 PSI set up, you are fine. Look at your hoses, they will say 1000 psi or kevlar 1500 psi.

[blakes52]

thanks @mike2718 gonna grab one and try it out this weekend. @Fatshaft Merc i looked at the lines and didnt see any markings on them..is there another way i could check somehow? i would assume they are the kevlar 1500psi because of the helm being 1500psi

[Fatshaft Merc]

They should be then if the helm says 1500.

[Mike2718]

where are you guys getting the seals at,i looked all over Indianapolis and never found them and i had to use a small pipe wrench to get my end caps off,i ended up buying the kit and doing it

If you’re looking for the kit that comes with the gland and seal already installed, there are various places online and they are about $100 for the 2 glands. Typically the gland is fine. If you just want the seals, just google for a local store that sells hydraulic hoses and parts. You can call them and see if they carry seals and you can take the gland with you and they can match the seal and the O ring that goes around the outer edge of the gland. When my nephew took his, they even installed them for him. Just take a photo of the inner seal, because they do have to be installed facing a certain way. They only charged him $2 each. So far they have lasted 4 years with no problem. I was told the O-ring needs to be 39mm O.D. X 35mm I.D. X 2mm thick. My nephew got those from an Ace Hardware and they have worked. They seemed just a tad loose around the gland and that’s why I think they should actually be 39mm O.D. X 33mm I.D x 3mm thick. This gives you the same outer dimension of 39mm but will give you a tighter fit around the gland but then again the other size seems to have worked for him

Blake52, you’re welcome. Just remember it may take some effort to get them off. If they have never been off before, they will seem like they are welded to the cylinder.

Here are some photos of his original seals. I can see on the seal they are 3/4” x 1” x 1/8” thick.
D74CA8DA-2182-4885-B53D-D9D833EBE834.pngB6392CA7-A47F-4576-83EC-B5DD33D9AB66.png