1999 200 Fitch Surging

[Denny52]

I Have a 1999 Ficht 200 model# E200FPXEEN and serial # G 04665570. I rebuilt it last year after a oil pump failure. It surges between 500 and 1000 rpms at idle. You put in gear and it dies. After it's warm it surges between 700 and 1000. Once you get it gear and ease on trottle you can take off full trottle with no surging. Runs great and pushes my 20 FT Ranger about 62 mph with on trouble. Until i stop and turn motor off and same thing happens again. When you run a timing check it runs smooth at 1500.
Any ideas? Roddy sent me here for help


Modified by Denny52 at 1:45 PM 3/18/2008


Modified by Denny52 at 4:02 PM 3/18/2008

[ZeroHour]

ECU problem and I would think your speed is a bit low also. I would also check and assure your battery is CLEAN and well connected. My 150 piece o FICHT did the exact same thing with dirty terminals which I think ultimately screwed up the ECU.

Good luck!

[tdt91]

I have a 2000 Fitch 200 and it surges at idol as well. mostly when cold. this has not caused any performance issues though as far as i can tell. i think its the computer trying to get the fuel / air mix just right

[Denny52]

I just put a new battery on but i rechecked my connections anyway.

Thanks a Lot

[Denny52]

I have checked for air leeks and fuel that what it looks like.

Thanks A Lot

[Danrude]

I replied to your buddy Roddy about this problem and as I told him I experienced the problem and found that one of the heads was not coming up to correct operating temperature . this causes carbon to build up on that side. My thought is that this situation causes the EMM to search trying to get the idle set properly. It is important to know if the operating temperature is not being reached in one or both heads because the carbon will build up quickly and cause damage. If you find it is a temperature problem make sure you decarb at the same time you change the thermostats.

[Bassmeister]

A wide plug gap can cause surging at idle and dying when being put in gear. If head temps are good check gap on plugs, gap should be .028

[ChampioNman]

Dat's what I told Roddy too.

[ELGIN]

The DI only has one temp sensor, the other one is a switch.

[Bassmeister]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELGIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The DI only has one temp sensor, the other one is a switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Show off!!!

[Denny52]

This engine has less than a hour after the rebuild. Both sides of block seams to be to be running cool. After i rebuild it i called a dealer to ask if he had a piston stop to check timing. He told me not to worry about the timing. He realy does not like the ficht motors anyway. So when i hook the dignostic to check timing it goes to 1500 rpm an runs good, I shows 24BTAC. Then when i exit it goes back to 700 to 1000 rpms surging.

Thanks a lot[

[Danrude]

The piston stop tool is used to tell you were TDC is relative to the markings on the flywheel, then you use the laptop computer to tell the EMM/ECU where the timing actually is. If you do not perform these steps along with the linc and sync then the idle may or may not be close much less correct. I would not trust anything a tech, who does not understand or even like a DI motor, told me. At this point you may want to let a Certified BRP tech look at it. JMO

[tdt91]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wide plug gap can cause surging at idle and dying when being put in gear. If head temps are good check gap on plugs, gap should be .028</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet thats my problem, I'll pull the plugs and check them. BTW, how do you check the head temps. Would one of those laser things the auto techs use work?
I just pulled the plugs and they were at .045. I regapped to .030


Modified by tdt91 at 1:42 PM 3/23/2008

[Denny52]

My spark plugs were set at .028 and like new. I ordered a piston stop today and already have the overhaul manual and Diagnostic software. So like the old saying goes i am going to lick this calf over, even if i have to take the engine apart again. I am going follow the book to the tee. Check and set timing and all pressures.

Thanks For ALL The Help

[Bassmeister]

A pyrometer would be the ticket!!! Point and shoot!!

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

... pyrometer....


</TD></TR></TABLE>


That is an awful big word to be using when all he needs is a temp gun.

[ssimpala71]

[tdt91]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wide plug gap can cause surging at idle and dying when being put in gear. If head temps are good check gap on plugs, gap should be .028</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bassmeister, in this post you say to gap at .028. At the top of this board the link to BRP spark plug chart shows on this motor to gap at .030. Am I missing something?

[tdt91]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A pyrometer would be the ticket!!! Point and shoot!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks

[Denny52]

Up date on my surging DI. My throttle linkage was off and timing was 6 degrees off. I synchronized the throttle linkage and set the timing with the ECU. Took care of the problem.


Thanks for every ones help.

Denny