lower unit oil color

[chadEddings]

I changed my lower unit oil for the first time since owning the boat (July '07). The oil was mostly black but had the occasional gray swirl. Should I be concerned?

[ChampioNman]

Any odor to the fluid like a burnt smell? If not you should be OK but looks like you run the boat pretty shallow. A model # sure would help.

[chadEddings]

Thanks ChampioNman. It's a 1993 Evinrude 150 Inturder.

No burnt smell, so guess I'm OK.

Yea, I bought the boat from my brother-in-law and he used it a lot. I've been thinking about roughing it up and putting on a fresh coat of paint.

[ChampioNman]

yep they are good motors. Just keep them clean on the inside and you'll be good to go, .

[chadEddings]

On a slightly different topic, is it difficult to match the paint color of these older models?

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadEddings &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a slightly different topic, is it difficult to match the paint color of these older models?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your local dealer has excellent touch up paint to match your motor.



Regards,

[chadEddings]

Thanks DoferGofer. Do you think they will sell it in spray cans?

[ChampioNman]

Yep they do.

[chadEddings]

Nice. Thanks ChampioNman.

[Musky Mike]

Oil looks old, mine never looks like that. Gear case oil is relativilty cheap to change. I would change it again in a months to make sure everything is good.

[chadEddings]

Will do.... I was thinking the same thing. While we're on the subject of gear case oil, I went with the Penzoil brand, but there was another brand, QuickSilver, that was twice the cost.

Not know the diff and being new at boat maint, I went with the cheaper of the two.

[Musky Mike]

I have used Amsoil, Royal Purple, Pennzoil and Pennzoil 100% syn. Never had a problem with any of them, always came out clean. Name brand oil (Pennzoil, Mercury, Quicksilver, Evinrude, etc) is always a good choice.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadEddings &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks DoferGofer. Do you think they will sell it in spray cans?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes sir, and it is your best and most economical way to repair the damage that's been done to your engine. If I was making the repair, I would wet sand the damaged area with 320 grit wet or dry sand paper with warm water soapy water, (water warm for comfort and ivory liquid dish detergent to aid in keeping the sandpaper clean) sanding out all of the rough scratches done to the paint and metal. Then clean the metal area with plane old household vinegar.
Then coat the freshly sanded and clean area with and automotive type prime or whatever type of metal primer that is offered at your dealer in a rattle can. You will want to give it a heavy coat to fill in small scratches in and give you enough material for the next sanding after it has thoroughly dry probably overnight.
The next sanding prior to paint will be with 360 or 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper sanding the whole area to be repainted. I would look for a seam or where the unit bolts to the mid section mask that off and sand that entire section to perfection. Then when you paint that section, it should look like it has never been damaged. But, when you start spraying color, lightly coat only the primed area until it is colored before you start painting the whole area, this little technique will make the repaired the same color as the rest of the painted panel.
You will be proud of your accomplishment when you are finished.



Regards,