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  1. #1
    Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    12x20 storage shed man cave

    I looking at building a portable building on 4x4. How far apart should I put the 4x4s. I thinking 18 to 24".
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

  2. Major Flagelator Gamblinman's Avatar
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    #2
    Depends on the beams used to support your rafters. The bigger the beams, the farther you can separate their supporting structures. If I remember correctly, if you use a 4X12 beam, you can separate your 4X4's at least 8'. I would definitely have an architect or engineer double check whatever you plan on doing.
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

  3. Member skeeterj01's Avatar
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    #3
    Personally on the one I built to be portable I used 6x6 for the runners on the floor. Just my opinion I figured 6x6 would be stouter when the rollback was winching it up onto the bed.

    to answers your question id go with 18”

  4. Member Bill2e's Avatar
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    #4
    Build it bigger!
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    #5
    We normally space them about 8' I believe, then run joist across 16 OC

  6. Banned
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    #6
    If you are talking 4x4 skids, I have been seeing 12' buildings with 3 or 4 skids. Did my gravel pad last November for my 12'x20 and that's as far as I got

    Tell the wife if I finish all my projects I won't have anything to do

  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by twest1 View Post
    We normally space them about 8' I believe, then run joist across 16 OC
    Yup, if you want it on two runners then 2x4's 16" OC on top of two 4x6 or 6x6 PT in the middle approx 6-7' apart. Then you could put some eye bolts in the runners and move it with a large tractor or something. If you ever plan to use it for actual storage of lawnmowers and ATV's then upgrade to 2x6 joists but keep in mind the total height off the ground.

    If you really want to use 4x4's then I'd put down 5 of them but it becomes harder to DIY move without the special trailers they use to deliver sheds. Find out the spread needed to fit on the trailers and build accordingly. Shed companies will likely be willing to move it for you for a a couple hundred bucks during slow times.

    What are you planning to use for the floor? I'd recommend Advantech for less flex and creaking.

  8. Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    #8
    I like your idea of 6x6. Hope to,never have to move it.
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

  9. Member
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    #9
    The nice thing about two heavy runners is it's easier to level. You could set it right on your lawn if you want (most put it on patio blocks though) and just jack the runners to level it. A shed built on 4x4's does a LOT better on a smooth gravel pad. Otherwise they sag and dip and then your door doesn't close right, the floor might buckle, finished walls crack, etc.

  10. Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    #10
    I was planning on using 3/4 tounge and groove flooring.
    Last edited by PII Magnum; 05-22-2018 at 11:07 PM.
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by PII Magnum View Post
    I was planning on using 3/4 lounge and groove flooring.
    What kind of tongue and groove? You might consider putting a moisture barrier on top of the joists if it's natural wood. Probably not vital but could prevent potential issues with warping, etc. Any builders out there have an opinion on that?

  12. #12
    Use cca for anything close to and in contact with the ground as well as the plywood floor, unless this is just a temporary or short term shed. In addition to rot, there is also termites to be concerned about.

  13. Member Walkabout7781's Avatar
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    #13
    I like the idea of the lounge & groove flooring!

  14. Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    #14
    Right now I am leaning words 3 4x4 with a 2x6 base. Tounge and groove flooring for the base and then go from there.
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

  15. Member IBHUFFY's Avatar
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    #15
    Built mine 12" x 20" on 7" x 7" x 21' skids. Spaced them 8' to the outside measurement. All floor joists are 16" center 2" x 6". Walls are 16" center 2" x 4". Rafters are all 16" pre-enginered 2" x 4". Everything is stacked so should hold up pretty well. Floor is 3/4" plywood and has Hardy plank outside. 5/8" decking on the roof and 3 tab shingles.

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    #16
    Have you seen the two level tuff shed at home Depot. I could live in that sucka and for 16k built on site that's not a bad price!
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  17. Endeavor to Persevere
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    #17
    We always put a layer of 90 lb roofing felt aka tar paper between the floor joists and the decking. It eliminates any squeaking that might arise later plus it acts as a moisture barrier. We did that plus we normally laid 2 layers of plywood ran in opposite directions with the felt between them. All that on joists that are 16 inch on center and that floor will be almost like a concrete floor.
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  18. Member IBHUFFY's Avatar
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Rider99XX View Post
    We always put a layer of 90 lb roofing felt aka tar paper between the floor joists and the decking. It eliminates any squeaking that might arise later plus it acts as a moisture barrier. We did that plus we normally laid 2 layers of plywood ran in opposite directions with the felt between them. All that on joists that are 16 inch on center and that floor will be almost like a concrete floor.
    I like this idea.

  19. Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    #19
    I like that idea also.
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

  20. Member PII Magnum's Avatar
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    #20
    well its time to set some post and start leveling everything up.
    Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!

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