VRo purple wire

[pswann]

Name: Evinrude
model: E70TLESB
Seriel: G02562482
Year installed: April 24, 1991

I am replacing a old style vro with the 3 pin to the 4 pin vro. I have the new connector and have inserted the 3 wires and the installation went rather painless except that I do not seem to have a place to tie the purple wire on this engine. I have been called color blind before but I am pretty sure I dont see one. There is a red/purple that comes in on the port side harness in and goes over to the buss bar but that is about it. I checked with a meter and no voltage on the buss is switched. I sure would appreciate some guidance. Thanks in advance.

[rickdb1]

This may help...

http://www.outboardmotor.biz/t/004967.html

Also,

The gray goes on termial board with gray tach wire. The black to clean engine ground, The tan to engine temp sensor circuit. The purple goes to a switch ignition switch) purple wire. The 2 wires from oil tank, ring connector to engine ground, bullet connector to tan temp sensor circuit.

[pswann]

Thanks for the response. I read that article in a search but it doesnt correspond to my motor.

The forth (4th) wire (purple wire) will be attached to the purple wire at the engine wiring terminal.


Lets see if that image comes through.

This is the only wiring terminal and none of the connections are hot by the keyswitch. 4 and 5 are hot from battery power. Something in this engine has to be switched. The fuse is not either.

[pswann]

This is a picture of the wires coming from the throttle/keyswitch. This outboard and one more would make two that I have worked on. Outboards are interesting. It appears that the ground is what is switched from the handle when the key is turned since the red wire in the picture is always hot when referenced to chasis ground. I dont want to tie into this wire untill I get some guru feedback from someone here. If I am thinking wrong set me straight. I just about ready to prime the oil hose and get it all back together if I could just find a place to park the purple wire. I attached a video as well as a picture just as a goof so you can see it live and living color. It is 16 megs and not that great so make sure you have broadband.
Thanks!

http://<br /> <a href="http://boatsa...IM1662.MPG</a>]




Modified by pswann at 11:24 AM 8/5/2007


Modified by pswann at 11:29 AM 8/5/2007

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pswann &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a picture of the wires coming from the throttle/keyswitch.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The image here is from the trim and tilt wiring and the trim gauge wire, not the engine wiring.

On motors like yours, there used to be mention in the instructions to splice into the purple wire from the boat harness just before it connects to the engine harness at the red "cannon" connector.

In the past I've stipped back the harness covering about 4" from the boart harness red connector and spliced in the purple wire for the "VRO".

[pswann]

Just like you said it was there. My instructions made it sound like there were multiple purple wires connected to a single point
Now that I have the vro installed and wired it looks like I have to remove it again to change the impeller. Does that sound right? I cannot see any bolt to loosen to drop the lower unit. I presume it is under and across from the vro? Thanks for the guidance, I appreciate it. Now I need to go get some of the liquid rubber to seal it all back up again.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pswann &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now that I have the vro installed and wired it looks like I have to remove it again to change the impeller. Does that sound right? I cannot see any bolt to loosen to drop the lower unit. I presume it is under and across from the vro? Thanks for the guidance, I appreciate it. Now I need to go get some of the liquid rubber to seal it all back up again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I remember correctly, remove the starter for access to the shift bolt under the carbs, it has a 3/8" head on it.

this link may help with the water pump work. Be sure to use the factory kit and that the pee-hole hose fitting is at the top of the exhaust area and not on the side by the lower pan. Instructions are in the factory kit where to drill and tap the fitting.

[pswann]

Pulled the lower unit off. Your link didnt show, if you have a moment please repost it because I know where the peehole is but was not aware of any modifications necessary. I figured I would disassemble and see what is broke. Thanks again for your assistance.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pswann &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pulled the lower unit off. Your link didnt show, if you have a moment please repost it because I know where the peehole is but was not aware of any modifications necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>


sorry about that, the link is for water pump replacement

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/johnrudetips.htm

[pswann]

It said to remove the restricter on the pee hose. The hose is coming out of the bottom of the side by the lower pan. See below. It did include 2 fittings similiar to the one already installed. I do not have a gauge hooked up to this engine. Nothing about moving the hose up to the top or tapping a new fitting. There is no more information on the next page of the instructions this is it.



Can you tell me more about this modification you spoke of and how important it is to implement? I would like to get this motor to 100 percent so I dont have to work on it for a while. Thanks in advance

[SEAHORSE]

Take it to an established dealer as there were several temp related service bulletins back in the very early '90's. One of the most important was to drill and tap the water outlet fitting on the top of the exhuast area to bleed off trapped air, and to plug the side fitting. If I remember right, there were also jetting changes and timing changes to certain motors also.

[pswann]

I will do that. Thanks for your assistance, I couldnt have completed this task without you. Got the impeller back in and all ready to go.

[pswann]

My dealer never called me back with the water fitting mod. He remembered there was something and said he would look for it. I asked him to just tell me the jist of the mod and he didnt want me drilling just anywhere so he said to wait till he located the bulletin. I sure could use some information on the tattle tale modification? (I searched the internet and that is what it was called) Is it as simple as drilling a hole in the top or close to the top and taping threads into it, relocate the fitting and plug the old hole? I don't want to drill where I shouldn't and want to do the mod correctly. I would think you don't even need to remove the cover to drill it. Just drill and tap and run the engine for a minute to flush the shavings out of the engine and be done with it. But exactly where to drill is the question. Thanks in advance!

[rickdb1]

Futher info from a previous post. I had some diagrams for relocating the tattletale. Let me see if I can find them. If so, I will post them..

http://forums.iboats.com/showt...Issue

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pswann &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My dealer never called me back with the water fitting mod. He remembered there was something and said he would look for it. </TD></TR></TABLE>


60 & 70 hp service bulletins for cooling and overheating

SB 2221 Temp sensor new sensor pn 584166, tan/blue stripe wire.

SB 2225 thermostat seat new seat pn 336416, may not need this in fresh water.

SB 2271 jet and timing kits

SB 2276R1 relocate tattle tale nipple to top of block - new pressure relief springs -- Use waterpump kit pn 432955.

[pswann]

Thanks maybe with this information he can locate the bulletin.