Need help//advice

[Joshthebadbear]

Wondering if someone here can give us some advice. We started out today on the river with our 1998 Champion DC181. The crank battery worked fine all day. When we got ready to get off the water at about 8:00 p.m. and only about an hour since our last run up river our battery was completely dead. No previous problem. The only thing that I turned on today that I haven't used in a very long time was the areator. It didn't work. I can't remember the last time it did come to think of it. And the switch felt . . . well mushy. It's the only way I can describe it. It didn't click like it used to and almost turned 360 degrees. My question is this. Even though the areator didn't come on could it still have been drawing power from the battery. I'm not sure if I switched it all the way off. I also need to replace that switch. Is it difficult to do? Where would I get one? I'm pretty unmechanically minded. . . thus the questions which might be pretty stupid. Thanks guys/gals though for any help or suggestions.

[bled1]

Seems like C&O still carries a lot of the switches for our rides...

[timberland]

Michael, Remove the wires from the battery. Try charging at a low amp setting like 2 amps /12 volt. Checking the battery for signs of the case being warm...almost hot. If it gets warm or hot, it's probably shorted or your charging it to fast. KEEP you face from being over the battery. If its shorted, it could explode.

Three things could be the cause of what happened. One, the switch shorted from hot to ground, thus shorting the battery and draining it. Two, the battery lead plates could of shorted and being the switch is on that circuit, shorted that switch. Three, what is connected to the switch, aerator in this case has a hot to ground short.

You can get switches from BPS or even Champion. Before you change it out, look closely at the back side of the switch for markings indicating "N.C. and N.O." or numbers at each terminal. N.O. means its a normally open terminal, N.C. means a normally closed terminal. Make a sketch of the switch, noting its designations and for back up, what color wire is on each terminal. May even tag with tape what position the wires are connected too.

The switch it self either snaps in the dash panel or is held in by two screws and a plate. If it snaps in look for a bulging on the back side of the switch, squeeze that area down and the switch will unsnap from the dash. Locate the aerator and unplug it, its either 2 or 3 wires. Now install the new switch, connect the battery leads WITHOUT the aerator connected. Wait about 5 minutes and check to see if the battery is warm to touch....Keep your face from being in contact with the battery if its shorted it could explode. If its not warm that's good...means we have no short between the battery and the switch. Now connect up the aerator and see if all is well.

Feel free to PM me if you run into problems.

[Joshthebadbear]

Richard. thanks a ton. I'll have a look and will let you know. (if I don't blow myself and house up!) appreciate all the time you took to answer.