Both recirculating pumps need replacing; does anyone have first hand experience and will share any shortcuts to make this job easier? It looks like there will be a space limitation as to replacement pump style and would you suggest that the plumbing hoses be replaced? Thanks
Given that the hose from pump to nozzle is probably all of 16 inches long, I would say replace. This is because at that age, they will be hard, and it's difficult to get a hardened hose to seal properly on a fitting with a hose clamp. Be SURE you use only 500 gph pumps. Anything more will be too much, and every time the livewell runs your fish will spook and go crazy. Another member confirmed this happens with 750 gph pumps.
I would suggest Johnson Pump (formerly Mayfair) or Attwood's Tsunami pump. Both of those have cartridge style motors that can be changed without disrupting the plumbing. I recently changed 2 pumps on my 1996 201. I found the "sealant" to be so good that the plumbing nuts rounded off, even with a 6 pount socket. They were there permanently! I used a "multi-tool" with a flush-mounted blade to easily slice through the plumbing so close to the fiberglass that I was able to peel away the remainder and remove the old pump hardware. I view this tool as worth it's cost for this job alone.
I was afraid the removal of the old pumps might be a problem. Don't know if my old bones can take laying across the back of the transom for hours to get this job done; will look for me a cushion. Any ideas on better ways to route/organize the wiring in the bilge; so many hoses and wires, there has to be a fix for this? I'm going to look at the measurements of the Johnson 500 pump; there was already one in the boat for the starboard livewell pump-in; replaced that cartridge already since getting the boat. Thanks for your reply and if you think of any ways to save time and lessen the pain please let me know.Originally Posted by TXguy201
I would tell you to VERY careful when removing the hose from the nozzle at the top of the livewell. On the 94 Stratos I had the aerator is not like the current ones. If broken, they are no longer made.
"I see dead people"
Thanks for the information; I am afraid this endeavor will get very expensive before it is completed, since I don't fish tourney's I made delay and just return the catch this summer. I just want everything to look and operate as originally intended in this boat. I haven't owned a bass boat since 1974 and I'm hoping this 201 will provide me many days of fun during my retirement.
That's about as good as you can hope for on the bilge wiring appearance. I see the wire is in loom, which is good (so it won't rub on the edge of a clamp). To TightLip's point, do the job in the following order:
1. Cut hose between old pump and spray nozzle. I'd use a multi-tool for this too as it will cut the hose in a controlled way with no stress on the nozzle nipple. Loosen both hose clamps completely after hose is cut.
2. Remove hose piece from old pump without disturbing upper hose piece. There is no concern for damage to the old pump nipple, so you can pull hose to the side to get it off.
3. Gently pull down on upper hose piece as you rotate it back and forth to loosen it. Do not rock to the side - the nipple will be brittle and could break. You may want to slice the hose carefully (lengthwise) with a utility razor knife to ease removal.
4. Cut the pump intake fitting anywhere you can get to it (to get most of the pump out of the way). Use a multi-tool for this - this job alone will make the expense of the tool worthwhile. When I do this step, the pump is history in about 1 minute. It's THAT easy with a multi-tool.
5. The multi-tool can cut flush and very close to a surface without fear of getting out of control. With the pump out of the way, you can see better to make a more precise second cut. Slice the retaining nut/fitting 1/16th inch or so from and parallel to the livewell exterior. At that point, the thin layer can be peeled/pried loose.
6. Inside the livewell, use a razor scraper to peel loose any sealant adhesive you can get to, and get it under the edge of the fitting a bit if possible just to help loosen it.
7. back on the outside, you can see the rim of the intake tube in the hole. Push on that with a wooden dowel and it should loosen and push into the livewell.
8. Clean up sealant residue with the razor scraper, install new pump temporarily to measure for hose length needed. Good quality reinforced hose works - think Home Depot.
9. Install new pump. This fitting is internal to the boat, so any true silicone will do (not caulk). Put some on both sides, but not in excess, just enough to seal is fine.
10. Install new hose on top fitting first. Add both hose clamps, then install on lower fitting. Some pumps come with a screw on elbow that will make final installation of the hose easier.
Multi-tools are sold at a number of places. The cheap ones are at Harbor Freight. I have one, it will work. I also have a good one (Rigid) from Home Depot. They are THE thing to have for this type work. There are also scraper blades for the tool - that method is getting popular for carpet removal when doing a carpet job.
TXguy201-Thank you for taking your time to layout the 10-step procedure for replacing my recirc pumps; you should upload as a sticky, there will be others.
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