My compliments to FLAT!
I used the previous instructions to do my swap of the VST, Strainer, and Screen on hammer 225.
I also searched the entire internet and could not find one place that said where the VST filter actually was!
I am a picture guy so I had to read over post a few times to get it right so when it was all over I decided since Flat had not been on since like 2005 it would be okay for me to update the instructions on changing the vst filter inside the fuel float box.
He is right it does look a little intimidating but, with his instructions I completed the task in just over an hour.
Using your browser you can zoom in on the photo... on IE it is in the bottom right hand corner!
So here is my first picture and set of instructions.
1. The filter that is up on the top of the fuel float box is metal and there is a chrome fitting that locks the fuel line to the upper side of this.
A. push down to move the chrome piece close to the top of the filter with your right hand. Have a flathead screwdriver in your left hand and move the black nylon sleeve you see back into the chrome piece. This will unlock the lock mechanism from the filter shaft.
B. When you have recessed the black sleeve into the chrome piece fitting move the chrome piece back up removing it from the filter shaft.
You should not have to force or use pressure that damages this black ring. If it does not recess then move the chrome fitting down further to the filter.
Okay.
Some fuel lines come with these funky marine clamps that are tuff to get off. Use care but snip it off with cutters or if you can get up under the overlapping piece you can get it to unlock and peel it off with pliers.
Replace it with an (injector clamp) from Advance Auto Parts or somewhere. These use a screw and they do not have a razor edge like water clamps so they will not cut into a close by line of any kind.
NEXT SECTION
1. on the top of the fuel float box and looking a the box straight on there is an oil line that is on the closest right corner to you. Remove it to help you have some working room.
2. Next drain fuel,,( a small funnel and mason jar is helpful)
3. Loosen and remove the (9) screws from the top of the float assembly box
4. Take the oil pump solenoid bracket off of the fuel float box (2 bolts) pictured below on my handy picture.
5. Take the (3) bolts out of the fuel float box and make sure to take the washer assemblys out with the bolts or you will be digging for them.
Okay so now
Lets break the box apart if it is not already in two pieces.
There is a gasket here and ours was not damaged but it we bought one on the advice Flatlander gave us in his post!!
The fuel pump is obvious and on the bottom of the fuel pump is the (plastic VST filter)
It rotates slightly counter clockwise and then comes right off.
If you want to dig into the little screen filter that is about a 1/4" in diameter it is on the top of the float box and it there are two phillips head screws you will need to take out. What you are taking out is the fuel regulator.
Lift the small fitting *fuel regulator* out of the hole and inside you will see that little sucker in there.
I did not replace mine as it was not dirty.
Hope this helps and I am not trying to reinvent the wheel but the pictures have been deleted on the other post and sometimes well,,, for me anyway pictures are helpful!
Thanks to
ChampioNman
Iron Banks
Blue198
pmgoffjr
Flat Lander
spider 1
We are still testing and tuning our rig and so far we still have an issue so I guess next we will try plugs and then spider 1 said there was a filter behind fuel regulator and screens behind injectors, any help is welcome.
Modified by ChampRiderz at 11:40 PM 9/30/2009
Modified by ChampRiderz at 11:52 PM 9/30/2009
Modified by ChampRiderz at 11:53 PM 9/30/2009
Modified by ChampRiderz at 11:55 PM 9/30/2009
Modified by ChampRiderz at 10:53 AM 10/2/2009
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