just thought i'd see if any one has had enuf with paying the rediculous price for this filter. u know the one after the vst. how about the filter clamps? any safe and good solutions. Lets hear what might be done. i know what alot of yamaha techs will say, but bring it on.
As far as the clamps go, you can go to any Auto Parts Store and get the clamps for the Chevy Fuel Injector clamps. They work great. Have not found a replacement for that $95 strainer (Paper Filter) yet.Here is some good reading and pictures on the subject.
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerot...age=2
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by pancake »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">just thought i'd see if any one has had enuf with paying the rediculous price for this filter. u know the one after the vst. how about the filter clamps? any safe and good solutions. Lets hear what might be done. i know what alot of yamaha techs will say, but bring it on.
Is this the filter you are talking about (Medium pressure filter after the VST and before the high pressure pump)
I have not seen anyone talk of an aftermarket option, but I have been told this is a 10 micron filter. I would think 10 microns is 10 microns if you could find another brand that fit the bill.
Other than that, you can use regular fuel injector hose clamps from the auto parts store. They do make reusable ones as well. The difference is the clamp exerts 360 degree even pressure all around the hose where a "normal" hose clamp tends to have two areas that get pinched and are not evenly compressed. Under high pressure applications (ie, fuel injection lines) this can be a big issue. The Yamaha clamps are one use only and have to be cut off each time.
The only other thing I would wonder about is if there is a PSI rating on the filter canister itself. But I'm certainly no mechanic. I've got just enough education to be a Fire Hazard and an Insurance Risk
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Team Stratos »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">The only other thing I would wonder about is if there is a PSI rating on the filter canister itself. But I'm certainly no mechanic. I've got just enough education to be a Fire Hazard and an Insurance Risk
The psi going into that filter is supposed to be just a little over 50psi max. But if the pressure on both sides of the filter is the same, would it matter? Not like a 50psi line blowing through a filter and into open air? Not an engineer however.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by dward51 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
I have not seen anyone talk of an aftermarket option, but I have been told this is a 10 micron filter. I would think 10 microns is 10 microns if you could find another brand that fit the bill.
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Now given that it is a 10 micron filter and we're all running 10 micron water separators then surely this filter is somewhat obsolete. It wasn't so long ago many of us didn't have water separators so we were relying on this exspensive filter. How many times do we need to filter the fuel before we burn it.
Now the oil is mixed with fuel vst and then filtered once more using the filter in question. However, $90 a pop is overpriced but they know we'll pay it because it's a small price in the grand scheme of things.
Current: 2006 ~ 20i ~ 250 HPDI ~ T1-25p
Previous: 2005 ~ ZX 225 ~ 250 HPDI Phase III - TXP 26p
I'm planning on putting in a 2 micron Racor the next changout (the main filter in the boat ahead of the engine). In "theory" there is nothing small enough to get by that which would clog up any of the on engine filters. Several of the marine boating guys I forum with have already done so on their boats and so far no more on engine filter problems, but time will tell.
can someone describe what airflow restriction there is to a new 10 micron filter. in other words when i remove my (used) filter to check to see if its clogged, i can blow thru so i am guessing its OK. what do you do?
According to Yamaha, a pre-engine fuel filter like the Racor's should not be drawing more than 4" mecury vaccum on the engine side of the filter for a 200 HP and 6" mercury vacuum on the engine side of the filter for the larger engines. If the vacuum is higher, then the filter is restricting the flow and needs to be changed.
This would be the measurement from a vacuum gauge in the fuel line between the filter and the motor.
There is a long running thread on this on The Hull Truth's forum. It started when people were asking about using 2 micron filters to trap more gunk and keep the VST filter clean longer. Question was when do you change a racor out? By time, or is there some other way to know it's gunked up. No point in throwing out a filte that is still perfectly good. The 4" and 6" mercury figures came from Shipyard Island Marine as the official Yamaha figures. Measurement would be under WOT conditions.
Some of the guys have put vacuum gauges in on the unused port on the Racor filter base. However it has since been discovered that not all vacuum gauges use internal materials that are compatible with gasoline. If you decide to install one in your boat, make sure *ALL* the wetted components are compatible with gasoline (either stainless steel, brass, or bronze will do - but if it uses RTV silicone for the seal or gasket the RTV will not be compatible).
I'm still considering which gauge I'm going to put on my Racor when I switch to a 2 micron filter. I have also purchased a vacuum switch that can be set to a trigger point just above the 4" reading for my 200HPDI. I will hook it to an in console alarm buzzer as a backup and failsafe alarm when actually under power.
Would like to know the supplier of this switch at 4. I was going to use OMC ones used in the 80's and 90's ,bu those trigger closed at 7 or so; too late. Thanks for an input, Dvid.
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