Update.. 1999 200 FICHT thaught is was fixed.... but

[Hav2fish]

My 200 wouldn't fire the plugs or injectors during cranking, remember me? It would start to fire everything if the plugs were pulled and the motor spun over.

Anyway a new starter appeared to be the fix until it got cold this last week and the problem came back. The ECU was sent to DFI and they said it checked ok. It has a new CPS, new starter, new battery and the lastest thing was a new starter solenoid. Follow the check list in the book for, "spins over but won't start" everything checks good. Start assist... .you name it... Voltages all check. My concern is if the ECU was tested in a warm condition maybe it wouldn't show any signs of not working....

The boats at the dealership that's been doing all the work. Here's my problem... I can't keep buying new parts, because we "think" this is the fix. The dealership has no access to another ECU.....

I already fished my first BFL without a big motor and the next one is in a week and half. So, I think I'm about to write off the season has a lose...



Any suggestion on what you service tech's would do at this cross roads???

Thanks again,
Shane



Modified by Hav2fish at 12:10 AM 2/21/2006

[RUSTY63]

This is probably not what you want to hear but......There is something being over looked, could be as simple as a bad ground.

"New parts" does not always mean "Good Parts", I would start simple....Grounds....ALL OF THEM!!!!!!
Battery, load test it.

Compression?

Starter, amp draw....and so on.

One thing I don't like to hear is a tech say is.... "I think this will fix it"....this usually means the repairs will be expensive.

[Hav2fish]

The old starter was definetly dragging compared to the new. I've tried 3 batteries total. When the problem first started the battery was only 3 months old. Replaced with the same model 1000cca and then we tried a new Deka (1000cca) cranking battery.

I've cleaned and checked almost all grounds I can find. I think if it was a wiring issue it would show up on the lake at any given point, but thats not the case. Once I get it started its good the rest of the day.

I checked the continuity of the cps to the ecu, so the ecu should be getting the signal. The wire off the starter solenoid looked questionable, so we checked it as well wingle the wire tring to find an open.

Have you ever seen the capacitor go out?

I'm affraid the weather is going to warm up and the problem go away without a fix. You would think in the big city of Austin there would be a Evinrude dealer with lots of resources... I think most of the dealers flushed there Evinrude supplies some where around the year 2000

One of these days we will find it! Then it will be time for something newer

Thanks again,
Shane


Modified by Hav2fish at 12:50 AM 2/21/2006

[SEAHORSE]

Do you know how to do a voltage drop test? It is one of the most basic procedures for troubleshooting electrical problems, but most "fixers" never use it.

Take a voltmeter , set to read 12V, and hook the positive clip directly on the battery post, not the cable terminal. Clip the negative to the starter post, not the cable terminal. Have someone crank the motor over and read the voltage, it should be 1 volt or less. If it is higher, somewhere there is resistance "dropping" the voltage. Start moving the negative clip to the solenoid, to the battery cable post, etc. until you find the problem.

To the grround side. put the negative clip on the neg. post, not the cable terminal, and the positive on the starter frame. Crank it over and see if it is 1 V or less. If not, move the pos. clip to the engine block, ground post,ground cable terminal, etc. It is a quick test and will tell a lot.

Think of a water piipe with a pressure gauge at each end, if the pipe is clear and the water flows, there will be no or hardly any pressure difference. If you kink the pipe to add resistance, there will be a difference between the 2 gauges, the greater the kink (resistance), the greater the pressure difference.

[gtm1086]

Your motor needs to see a minimum of 200 rpm while cranking to start. If it is below 200 you need to find out why. Starter, Battery connections, grounds, poor compression “piston seizing”

If you have over 200 rpm. Then it could be voltage related. Is your start assist circuit providing 18 to 22 volts to the 40V side while cranking. If you do have good voltage while cranking try lifting your warm up lever. If this helps it start then you have a bad stator.
Hope this helps

[Hav2fish]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gtm1086 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your motor needs to see a minimum of 200 rpm while cranking to start. If it is below 200 you need to find out why. Starter, Battery connections, grounds, poor compression “piston seizing”

If you have over 200 rpm. Then it could be voltage related. Is your start assist circuit providing 18 to 22 volts to the 40V side while cranking. If you do have good voltage while cranking try lifting your warm up lever. If this helps it start then you have a bad stator.
Hope this helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's what I know about the 200rpm issue. The communication with the laptop/pda is to slow to recieve feedback from the ecu during cranking, however the tach will jump right before it fires... when it's going to start... This starter spins the motor well over 200rpm(much faster than the original one) during cranking.
I agree about the voltage as being the issue, however we can't find a break down anywhere.... All voltages are where they should be...

I called today and the word is they did a few things and will check it the morning.. Then they have a few more things to try... I still think it's in the ecu, but have no way to prove this without spending the money... and if that's not it... I'm just out that money

No warm up lever on my FICHT However a heater jacket for the engine is starting to sound like a good idea. The wife already say's it gets more love'n than she does!!!

Thanks for all the feedback and keep it coming.
Shane

[RUSTY63]

Have you moved the ECU ground off the cover where the rectifier used to be?

Just a thought.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RUSTY63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you moved the ECU ground off the cover where the rectifier used to be?

Just a thought. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, Rusty, my turn to give you a hard time. The '99 ECU does not use a separate ground wire if I remember correctly, only the 2000 and later EMM's do.

[RUSTY63]

You do remember correctly and I did not, Thanks My Friend.

[Bassmeister]

I'm in so much AWE at the knowledge on these boards!!!