Does anyone know of a shop that would re gel a bassboat? I was quoted 7 grand at a local shop (ouch). So I asked for a price if I brought him my boat stripped of everything...EVERYTHING except the bow eye and transom eyes, let him shoot it and the I'll take it back and I do all the sanding and polishing. He wanted 3500 dollars for that. That's ludicrous. You guys have any suggestions?
BBT
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Bump »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Doug Mcgee?</td></tr></table>
thats what i was thinkin, just didnt know if he sprayed gel?
Its kinda far but Toledo Fiberglass does great work and very reasonable in my opinion.
Skeeter ZX250 Yamaha 250 OX66
Don't know if Doug is set up yet for Gel jobs yet, but he will be here soon and tell ya for sure.
I am not setup to re-gel a entire boat yet. not sure if I will ever push things that far as long as i am working at the plant. The prices you got are not really out of range as it is labor entensive to do. I would check toledo fiberglass maybe. Here are some things to remember
1) Gelcoat bonds to the glass thru a chemical reaction when in the mold. It is very very hard to achieve the same bond thru mechanical means to do a re-gel.
2) Failure rate on re-gels is pretty high so be sure whoever you use gives a good warranty. You will find a lot of shops will only want to give you a 6-12 month warranty if any.
3)If you get 4 prices and 3 are all kind of in line and one is a lot cheaper be a little leary as you may get what you pay for.
If you like give me a call and we can discuss the whats and why's of the re-gel and maybe I can help you get a good plan of what you need to do.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DOUGMCGEEFTD »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
3)If you get 4 prices and 3 are all kind of in line and one is a lot cheaper be a little leary as you may get what you pay for.
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learned this lesson with ole blue
SUSHII
21XRS/SHO
Why regel.....Look at the first post in Bassboat Restore That guy renewed an old Basscat looks awesome!!!
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by signmanbasser »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Why regel.....Look at the first post in Bassboat Restore That guy renewed an old Basscat looks awesome!!!</td></tr></table>
Just depends on colors, shape and weathering as to whether that can be done or not
Good points Doug. I talked to Toledo Fiberglass but they have a lot going on right now. I will probably be ready in the to do the job this winter. Just wanted you guys experiences with other glass shops. I thought about painting but the gel is more durable. Toledo Bend will test a boat, I don't want to paint it and the first trip out on the lake and I gotta start touching spots up. That is why I want to go that route.
Mike the top cap has been sanded and re-cleared in the past. They sanded it so well that most of the metal flake in the is gone, down to the color under the flake in most parts. I was gonna paint the whole boat white with a black or silver pinstripe.
Just be carefull who you use. yes gel is harder than paint. gel is also harder to get to bond than paint. i have seen some good lookin gel jobs start coming off on the first trip as well. thats why i say be very carefull who you use.
I thought gel was softer than paint?
Never had an issue with sanding gel prior to buffing.
Have waited too long (to sand) on clearcoat cures though. And just cuss the whole time.
I think the new secret color is "A-Rig"..........
gel when cured is harder and more durable than paint but it is also a lot thicker.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DOUGMCGEEFTD »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">gel when cured is harder and more durable than paint but it is also a lot thicker.</td></tr></table>
Okay. I was just going by difficulty of wet sanding (color sanding). Certain clearcoats-vs-gelcoat on a boat.
Just always seemed the gel was softer (cut much easier with 1500), but, lots thicker.
The only time I ever tried to re-glitter one back to what it looked like new, was the top cap on an old 72 Ranger. There's not much area to cover on one of those. Got the glitter from Ranger, mixed it with clear, and sprayed.
THAT was a mistake.
Most of the glitter stood on edge.
Used the rest of the clear (what would be over two gallons once mixed), covering up the glitter that didn't lay down.
Two gallons for what shoulda taken 1/2pint.
Sure turned out nice, and has held up much better than the gel.....but, I'LL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN!
I think the new secret color is "A-Rig"..........
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by SkeeterDD22 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Okay. I was just going by difficulty of wet sanding (color sanding). Certain clearcoats-vs-gelcoat on a boat.
Just always seemed the gel was softer (cut much easier with 1500), but, lots thicker.
The only time I ever tried to re-glitter one back to what it looked like new, was the top cap on an old 72 Ranger. There's not much area to cover on one of those. Got the glitter from Ranger, mixed it with clear, and sprayed.
THAT was a mistake.
Most of the glitter stood on edge.
Used the rest of the clear (what would be over two gallons once mixed), covering up the glitter that didn't lay down.
Two gallons for what shoulda taken 1/2pint.
Sure turned out nice, and has held up much better than the gel.....but, I'LL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN!
trick spray clear on straight then blow the glitter on to the wet clear. Then cover it. Best to use gelocoat when attempting this as it takes lots of coats of auto clear to cover boat flakes.
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