Don, here's a head scratcher

[Corkpuller]

08' 225 ProXS - After trying all the "quick fix" methods to eleminate my low R's miss to no avail. a Merc Rep did install an update/ flash to the ECM and problem solved That was at 76 hrs. Fast forward to last week @ 88 hrs I experienced a beep from the smartcraft monitor and no power upon coming out of the hole. Ran fine at idle, romped it again, got the beep and engine not allowed any power. Shifted to reverse, tried again and she jumped up and ran fine. Same thing two days later so I took it to the shop and we suspected a problem with the neutral overspeed / "in gear" switch or connection. NOW... for the big question, when he hooked up the computer to see what the smartcraft alarm was, the computer indicated that the engine was in ACTIVE BREAK IN and it began @ the 76 hr mark. Evidently after the new flash to the ECM the engine reverted back to break in. I've talked to two techs and neither understand or know why that happened, and don't think there is any way to get it out of break in mode other than just accumulating the hours. Ever heard of this before?
There were no other "faults" that related to the alarm I received last week either, but have since learned that the neutral overspeed will not show up as other alarms might. Sorry to be so long winded but thought this might be of interest to others.

[EuropeanAM]

Any time the PCM is reflashed, the PCM will be in "Break-in Mode".

To expire the clock, the engine must be "loaded" (low trim angle) and RPM's above 3500 (the clock doesn't count down otherwise).

That reflash you received likely did resolve your idle quality problem.

Would be REALLY nice to see a printout of the FREEZE FRAME (FAULT) HISTORY... regardless of whether or not someone "though" faults were related....

Shift switch is certainly a possibility- but there WOULD be a related fault. You just have to know WHAT related fault to look for....

Most common cause of a shift switch failure is an OVERTIGHTENED SHIFT CABLE ATTATCHMENT NUT. The nut should be snugged down, and then backed off 3/4-1 turn so that the plastic washer can rotate FREELY under the nut. Failure to do so will allow the slide to "skew" inside it's channel, and can damage the switch.

A multitude of other possibilities exist for your acceleration issue.... see if you can find the printout, and I'll be glad to review it for you.

[Corkpuller]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any time the PCM is reflashed, the PCM will be in "Break-in Mode".

To expire the clock, the engine must be "loaded" (low trim angle) and RPM's above 3500 (the clock doesn't count down otherwise).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I have to "operate the engine" as if I'm going through another break in? What time frame are we talkin Don? I will have to "plow" up and down the creek with the engine tucked in for how long?? And if I don't do this, it will double oil forever?? Seems the Merc Rep that did the reflash should have advised of this.
Thanks Don

[EuropeanAM]

Breakin clock time varies from 1 hour 15 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the calibration.

Most bass applications will eventually expire the clock, regardless. However, very lightly loaded (or seldom run at high RPM applications) might remain in breakin FOREVER. Example: I've seen a few pontoons with Opti's on the back at 150 hours STILL in breakin (no-one ever took the time to load it down and run it).

Did you have a printout? Breakin Strategy will remain listed in the Freeze Frame (FAULT) History indefinitely.... even it breakin is no longer active (until the faults are cleared).

[Corkpuller]

Thanks for the info
No sir, I do not have any type of printout. Shouldn't once the break in "times out" the Active Breakin that is listed go away? Guess I don't understand how the compooter system works, and that's ok since I'm not the one with the diagnostic equipment, but it seems to me you shouldn't be allowed to clear any "FAULTS". ??
I will be taking the boat back in for yearly maint and check in two weeks when we head back up to the lake. I suppose another set of plugs might be in order now, after another breakin period.

[EuropeanAM]

You may, or may not need plugs, depending on your operating habits. Plenty of "mid-range" running does help to keep them clean.

As for faults... there are two categories to look at:

ACTIVE FAULTS (these faults are either active, or occured since the last engine startup)

FREEZE FRAME (FAULT) HISTORY: This is where "historical" faults are stored.

Historical faults are allowed to be cleared simply to "clean up" after a repair is completed (otherwise, some techs would hunt the fault "forever").

[Corkpuller]

Thanks again Don