UFP A-60 dis-assembly & re-assembly?

[fishmagnet]

Like a doof, forgot to remove the emergency brake cable from my hitch to A-60 actuator, and now am faced with having to replace the cable.

Anyone have experience / tips on handling this project?

I've read the dis-assemble-re-assemble instructions within the UFP A-60 manual, but have received a few other pointers that aren't mentioned in the A-60 manual:

1)Need to disconnect back-up wire to solenoid
2)May not need to disconnect brake line if there is enough slack in the brake line to clear inner member from outer member.
3)Need four hands to re-assemble A-60

Appreciate your insight / helpful hints / experiences in advance!

[taeheel2az]

That four-hands thing would be even more so with the brake line attached. I would be interested in seeing how some one did it - not too old to learn something.

Now that I think about it, the actuator only has to come out part way to have access to reinstall the cable. Might be worth trying.

[DABS]

In order to replace the cable, the actuator must be removed. First, raise the nose of the trailer. Disconnect the brake line and plug it. A golf tee works pretty good but don't leave it overnight or you will be drilling it out. With the nose up, all of the fluid will stay in the trailer and any incidental air will come to the front. Disconnect your solenoid wire. With snap ring pliers, remove the snap rings off the large pins along with the washers. Push the pins out and slowly remove the inner member forward. When the front hole clears the outer member, replace the pin. Do the same with the rear pin. Now you can take it to the bench. With the actuator right side up, remove the top square wear pad, the front pin, and both rollers out the top. Open the top latch and flip the inner member over, leaving the latch portion hanging over the bench. Remove the rear pin. Now push down on the brake release lever and pull back on the master cylinder. The rear rollers will roll to the side. Now you can unsnap the pushrod from the front of the master and slide the cable attachment plate off. Thread the new cable through the latch until you reach the L-shaped bracket on the side of the master cylinder. Go around the bracket and slip the end of the cable into the attachment plate and slide it back on the pushrod. Snap the pushrod back onto the master cylinder. Now install the rear rollers with the smallest shoulder against the master cylinder, holding them in place with your thumb and forefinger while you push them back into the acutator and using the release tab to pass through the hole in the plate. Replace the rear pin, flip it over and replace the front rollers and pin. Wear pad on top, clip on cable in front of the cable bead to keep the bead and yellow warning marker inside the body. Remove the rear pin and slide it back into the outer member, then the front pin until the rear holes line up, pin it and pull forward to align the front pin. Connect the solenoid wire, hook up the brake line, and bleed the brakes.

I might add while the trailer nose is up and the brake line connected, you can bleed the air out of just the master by using a screwdriver in the access hole on the bottom just behind the brake release lever, and using short 1/4" strokes, watch down inside of the reservoir for tiny bubbles coming up from the bottom of the reservoir. When the bubbles quit, you're done. No need to bleed the whole trailer again. To test the brake application, leave the plug disconnected from the trailer to the tow vehicle and back up a small hill. The forward pin on the actuator should be 1/2 to 3/4 of the way back in the travel slot on the side, under full brake lockup. Any more will require re-bleeding the brakes again.

[fishmagnet]

Thanks Dennis!

I 'Googled' up your similar response / directions to someone else back in '06 , that's where I picked up the direction on having to also disconnect the solenoid wire.

While I've got this puzzle apart, are there any other components you'd recommend replacing, i.e.shock absorber?

The trailer/actuator is an '01 model with light to moderate use over the years.

[DABS]

As long as the shock as even resistance both pushing and pulling, with no "dead" spots, it should be fine.