Truck-Lite trailer lights

[jfordbass]

I have a 1997 Astro trailer that came with Truck-Lite Model 10 lights for the running lights (rubber grommet around edge, water resistant, etc) and Model 60 for the rear/turn/brake lights.

One of the Model 10's is completely out, so can I just remove the assembly and replace the bulb itself? Should I get a complete new kit? Found online for $16 or so for newer LED-type lighting.

Also, the driver side Model 60 is only partly working: If headlights on, tail light is okay, but if turn signal on, or brake applied, then nothing. Again, do I just get new bulb for turn/brake light, or should I get complete Model 60 kit/fixture replacement (about $31 online for LED).

Something tells me I should just go the cheap route and get every-day bulbs... need someone else to tell met that, too, even though LED is 'brighter' and perhaps superior to the old school bulbs we know and love. I expect to have this trailer for at least another 5 years.

[ASTROCRAZY]

Just get the bulbs like came in it. You might have a wireing problem also, need to check the grounds. I also have a 97 Astro trailer.

[JR19]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfordbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the Model 10's is completely out, so can I just remove the assembly and replace the bulb itself? Also, the driver side Model 60 is only partly working: If headlights on, tail light is okay, but if turn signal on, or brake applied, then nothing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Boat trailer lights are put in a sealed unit to keep water out. Once you break the seal to get inside to the bulb you will run the risk of water getting in and shooting the bulbs. Just buy a new sealed light fixture *IF* that is your problem.

I would bet that you have ground problems...some of the time if you have just one light out in a circuit run of lights there is a possibility it is a shot bulb but I would check the ground first.99.9% of the time if your lights are working one minute then quit the next it is bad ground. I have seen brake lights work until you hit the turn signal or turn on the head lights then they get dim or go completely out.

Boat manufactures use pop rivets to attach lights and ground wires to the frame of the trailer. I would check ALL my lights for a loose ground/pop rivet. Drill out the pop rivet and replace it with a self tapping screw or bolt and nut.

Check your trailer lights with a 12V battery that eliminates the truck as being the problem. 12V battery and a set of jumper cables and some stereo speaker wire. Attach ground on battery to jumper cable ground and then attach jumper cable to the frame of trailer. Where the safety chains attach is a good bare medal spot to establish ground. Then attach the hot jumper cable to the battery. Then a piece of stereo speaker wire to the hot side of the jumper cables.If you have a four prong trailer plug touch the hot wire to the three FEMALE post one post at a time. One will be right turn one will be left turn and the other will light up all lights at the same time(side marker and brake/tail lights). If all the lights do not light up then go to the one that did not come on and look for bad ground. Same applies to right turn and left turn.

More than likely you can isolate the problem doing the above method. You can also check the trailer plug to make sure it is getting good ground...unhook the ground jumper cable from the safety chain and attach a stereo speaker wire to the lead. Then touch the ground wire to the MALE post on the 4 prong plug. It should be only male post on the trailer plug and have a white wire coming from it. Then repeat the procedure of touching the hot wire to the three female plugs. If you still have problems trace down the white wire and make sure it has a good ground connection.

Be very careful doing this. You are working in a small tight place with a hot and ground wire do not let the wires touch each other or the same prong at the same time...good luck and feel free to ask any questions if you need helpÂ

[jfordbass]

Thanks both! I'll check the ground... will also get a couple extra bulbs to have with me as spares anyway, so perhaps it's just the bulb/filament. But I'll definitely check the grounding as well. Much appreciated.

[CatFan]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfordbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks both! I'll check the ground... will also get a couple extra bulbs to have with me as spares anyway, so perhaps it's just the bulb/filament. But I'll definitely check the grounding as well. Much appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The bulb isn't replaceable in those units. You replace the whole assembly.

[jfordbass]

Thanks. Well, then hopefully it's just a careful check of the overall integrity/connections of the grounding wire. Will start there first, then replace whole unit if ground checks out fine.

[Garfish]

If the unit is indeed modular , it'll be plug n play easy, but buy the new LED lights, they are not affected by water and last 100,000 hrs.

[jfordbass]

Thanks all. I've decided to go the anti-filament approach---and brighter lights approach---of the newer LED models. Even if grounding IS the problem, don't know how much longer the filament/bulbs can be expected to last, and the LED kits aren't too expensive relative to how long they last and their brightness / potentially increased 'visibility'/ safety factor.

[EasternMarine]

You will be much happier in the long run with the LED lighting we are a Truck Lite dealer as well.