I'm framing in a new wall, and I think that I will put an extra door in. When Framing...what width should i frame the door opening at?
I'm framing in a new wall, and I think that I will put an extra door in. When Framing...what width should i frame the door opening at?
What width door you wanting to put in? You always frame it bigger to be able to shim. If I can remember right a 36" door takes either a 37 1/2" or 38" framed opening and a 32" door takes either a 33 1/2" or 34" framed opening.
Unless you are right in the middle of framing it you might want to wait and see if anyone else chimes in. I can't remember if those measurements are accurate but they are close.
Measure the door with the frame on it and add 3/4" if the opening is pretty square and level...
The rough opening should be 2 inches bigger than the door size, (eg. 36" door = 38" opening). This leaves enough room for the door jambs and shimming.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 1Stratos »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">The rough opening should be 2 inches bigger than the door size, (eg. 36" door = 38" opening). This leaves enough room for the door jambs and shimming.</td></tr></table>
Correct. 2" on the width and 2" on the height. Windows are different so dont apply this to them. A typical door jam is 3/4" thick times 2=1.5" leaving you 1/2" to square and shim the door.
When you buy your door, the framed opening dimensions should be printed on the frame.
\'07 Skeeter 20i
250 HPDI
MK MaxxPro101
Lowrance 520c
Add 2" to the perimeter. In other woods the total opening is 4" wider and 2" taller. A 3068 door would have a 3'-4" x 6'-10" opening.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by audeuce02 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Add 2" to the perimeter. In other woods the total opening is 4" wider and 2" taller. A 3068 door would have a 3'-4" x 6'-10" opening.</td></tr></table>
You would be doing alot of shimming if the opening was 4" wider.
your best bet is to run up to the depot look at which one you want and read the specs on it. If you do it right you shouldnt have to sheem anything. use your plum bob and levels. Its very easy to install a complete door kit.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by rooster tail »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">your best bet is to run up to the depot look at which one you want and read the specs on it. If you do it right you shouldnt have to sheem anything. use your plum bob and levels. Its very easy to install a complete door kit.</td></tr></table>
For interior doors, this is correct...you can get by without shimming...if you want...but for doors leading otuside, you should ALWAYS shim it....wayyyyy too easy to break into a door with no shims in it....
you all r close but the right ansewer is 2 1/4" wider than door size and 83" for height from floor to lentel this allows for shim to be used to fit door right.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Fred Patterson »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">you all r close but the right ansewer is 2 1/4" wider than door size and 83" for height from floor to lentel this allows for shim to be used to fit door right.</td></tr></table>
Sounds like my "measure the door with the jambs on and add 3/4" "
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Fred Patterson »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">you all r close but the right ansewer is 2 1/4" wider than door size and 83" for height from floor to lentel this allows for shim to be used to fit door right.</td></tr></table>
this is the right answer.u can get by w/ 2'' in width if the opening is perfectly plumb.i always push interior doors all the way over to the jam side and plumb w/ shims if necessary .you may have to move top or bottom out to get the right margin on the header on the lock side .use #8 finish nails on the jam,dont nail all the way in ,if u have to pull them for some reason.shim lock,then the bottom,then in between.once u put the other frame in place use #12 to nail both pieces together in 3 places on both sides and in the middle on the top wher u put the shims.
Mike Clemons-Lake Butler, Fla..
97 Gambler Intimidater / 200 EFI Merc
Always remember for doors you add 5" for your header (32" door= 37" header with a 34" opening) 36" door =41" header and 38" opening. Windows are totally different per manufacturer. Door hites rough opening ( interior should be 82-3/4 and exterior doors are 82-1/4. Your door trimmers are 81-1/4 and so are your window trimmers. Interior doors and standard hite windows have the same hite opening.
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