Six Tips - Inexpensive and Simple

[lak100]

This is only my first full year of bass boat ownership so I am always looking to keep this repetitive, simple and problem free.

Six tips you may or may not find useful.
1. Batteries: Pos 1st when connecting, Negs 1st when disconnect. See pix with simple label (two sides) taped two sides in clear packaging tape, then wire strapped in battery compartment. Cost $0.00



2. Jumper cables: want to have them in back compartment, but concerned that cable metal could cross battery lead and spark/short. Solution is to put clamps into cloth shoe bags. Shoe bags available at better shoe stores. Cost: Bags $0.00, Shoes $165.00


3a. Lure boxes: Planos numbered for Topwater (#1) to Sinkers & Hooks (#8) so easy to remember where lure goes back and Planos are always in sequence (so long as I can count 1-8)


3b. Planos into a plastic file box available at Staples; keeps Planos neat in front storage locker. Cost: $0.00 - Leftover from office, new probably $6.00?


4. Wheel Choks: orange heavy duty outdoor extension cord (worn-out) cut to size, no wet rope in the trunk on travel tourneys, easy to see orange, will not rot out. Cost: $0.00 (after I had already ruined extension cord)


5a.Lowrance GPS/Sonar cables: wrap in velcro "belt." Keeps cables from bouncing on cap when towing. Keeps cables and cap in new condition. Cost: $1.50 at Boaters World.


5b. Lowrance GPS/Sonar cables: velcro the velcro belt to a small tab on the console for towing


6. Orange (look yellow in pix) wire straps on battery charger plugs. The black plug from the Dual Charger always seems to fall into the cracks and it isnt very long. Add a 8" orange (or any bright color) wire strap to the plug to find it easier and have more to grab down in the compartment. I use a trickle charger for my big motor battery and have a bright orange wire strap on that extension too. Cost: 100 wire straps for $5.00



Hope you might be able to use some of these ideas. They work for me, save time and energy and keep frustration levels lower. Thanks for all of your ideas too, I read this regularly. I did make a rod holder compartment based on the Super Tips from Cast1

Larry


Modified by lak100 at 9:34 PM 5/10/2005


Modified by lak100 at 10:16 PM 5/10/2005


Modified by lak100 at 10:17 PM 5/10/2005

[J.Reed]

Good tips in here...thanks for taking the time to do it all. One of the best tips though was one you didn't even mention...building the gravel square to park the boat on. This keeps mud and debris from splashing up on the wheels, hull, etc.

JR

[lak100]

Thanks JR.

You are very observant! Yes, my gravel pad actually slopes in two directions...from the front right to the back left....both front to back and right to left. I wanted the boat sitting level for both looks and water drainage. I understand that tires on grass/dirt isn't good for the tires, so I built the gravel pad. My only problem is that I do not have a brake by-pass so sometimes getting up the grade in reverse activates the surge. I have found that backing up quickly rather than slowly works better. Larry

[J.Reed]

Larry...couldn't you unplug the lights from the trailer so as to not activate the brakes or does the slope activate them?

JR

[lak100]

JR


You got it: the slope compresses the surge and activates. My unit doesnt have a by-pass for reverse, so that isnt an option. Since the wheels only need to get up on the pad some 3' to 5', the brakes don't activate right away and I can get parked without brakes really catching. Experience has taught that going up on the pad works better if at slightly faster speed.

Larry

[spetro]

very well done