I have a 1989 dv180 Hydra Sport. The transom and stringers are rotten and I am in the process of pulling the top for replacement. I have never pull the cap off of a boat. I have the trim removed all the was around and all of the interior screws.
I have a 1989 dv180 Hydra Sport. The transom and stringers are rotten and I am in the process of pulling the top for replacement. I have never pull the cap off of a boat. I have the trim removed all the was around and all of the interior screws.
You will either need two sets of hoist or couple people and one set of hoist (engine hoist)... You still need a hoist regardless to get the motor off... make sure the motor is trimmed all way down... no fun in doing with with the motor trimmed halfway up or so... been there done that...
First, make sure that the topcap isnt glassed onto the flooring... check inside all the compartments, under the console(s), etc etc... make cuts here and there...
Second, you need to break the seal between the topcap and the hull after removing all the screws/rivets... a simple scraper should do the job... but just be careful... dont force anything... the process should be going with the flow... not forcing it...
3rd... as you start lifting it out... keep a CLOSE eye on the transom/splashwell area... manufacturers are notorious for attaching the splashwell to the transom with fiberglass filler or some kind of fiberglass glue to bond that area... if thats the case... you'll need chisel and hammer to "break apart" that area... I used air chisel and it worked somewhat good... Recip saws works good if you can get in there... the area's pretty narrow...
4th... keep a close eye on all the wirings that may be attached at one end to the top cap and another end attached to the hull...
DONT DROP the top cap... make sure its all clear before you move the hull out from underneath... then lower the topcap down... make sure it's levelled out and supported in all right areas...
Hope this helps... Im sure Northrivergeek will chime in with anything that I might have missed... but thats pretty much the process with my boat...
Good luck!
I worked on the boat today, and yes is glasses onto the flooring inside the front compartments and under the console, did all that today, just on the back on the transom/ splashwell I'm going to keep close eye when trying to lift the cap tomorrow. I will post pictures when I lift the top cap.
This where I'm right now, I got all the front loose but on the back I having trouble, here some pictures
Do you have more pics of your transom and stringer repair?
I have an 84 Champion that needs the same work done including taking the cap off the hull. I'm new to boat repair and your pics helped me alot already.
I saw this post. I was rebuilding a javelin. It was water logged and where the transom meets the top cap at the back where the motor mounts. I used a pry bar and worked it along the underside of the top cap at the transom. If you can use the pry bar and sep. the two it will be easier and clean when your done replacing the transom.
G.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHawk17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have more pics of your transom and stringer repair?
I have an 84 Champion that needs the same work done including taking the cap off the hull. I'm new to boat repair and your pics helped me alot already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure about the 84 Champion but on my 99 Champion the hull is bonded to the cap. I asked the same question here but never got a response. My transom was replaced from the inside of the back compartment. Had to pull the gas tank to get to it easily.
1999 Champion 203
2000 Yamaha OX66 225
Well I just seperated my 1984 Stratos today. I had to buy a good little prybar and go along the inside edges of the flooring because mine was resined to the floor. Took me a few hours to see what method worked best. It helped alot putting a little lift with the engine hoist as I went around a few inches at a time with the pry/hammer. You could hear it seperating. Grinder, flush saw, sawzall no good. Little prybar inches at a time worked best.
Then we get to the transom. It won't budge, Only thing keeping together. I cut, grinded, pryed. And the previous post was right. The SOBs set the splashwell area down in an inch thick of resin. I tried ever tool to man to get it loose, finally had to cut the transom cap and back of splashwell out thith air grinder. It was too low to get to from outside transom, and the front of the spashwell covered the joint. So be prepaired to do some bodywork when you put back together if this happens to you.
Now that everything is seperated, I gotta figure out how to lift the cap with just one engine lift. Maybe a wood H and pull from the center? Or could I do it with straps and cleats from center. Could use some suggestions guys. The boat is a little under 16 ft. Thanks
Modified by bigj1972 at 12:24 AM 11/28/2009
re: hulapopr (9:32 PM 11/27/2009): hey i have an 87hydra i am thinking of pulling apart,i was thinking this,when i worked in the hardware business we could get large screw eyes,what if you had 2 that threaded into the fishing seat holes,then run a chain,or long pipe through them then pull from the middle.tractor supply or someone like that may have the eyes..
I hadn't thought of that. Probably still be good idea to use cleats as well for
extra strength and balance. I just did mine with an engine hoist in center. I used 2-1000lb straps, one running across each set of cleats, wrapped around a 6x6 post, setting ends of post over that seat areas your talking about. I lifted it up and it works, but I can see that a balanced lift with four pullies would work better. Just depends if you can build the structure or not. This would be ideal. http://okieboarder.blogspot.com I just had mine up about a foot seperated, when wife called for thanksgiving dinner. Whatcha going to do.......I lowered it back down to do tomorrow. I will have to use saw horses and blocks to set it down on with this method to clear engine hoist feet.
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