removing slight oxidation

[bass boss]

Hi everyone.

I've been reading all the stuff on doing this and need some advise. I just bought the buffer from hardor freight and it comes with serveral pads. Do I need to buy any additional pads or with those work fine. My boat has very little oxidation. I can basically wet my finger and rub on a spot to make it shine in that spot.(it just burns like heck and comes back in a hour or so.) I do plan on doing a little wet sanding in a few areas, but not much. I looked at all those links for the pads and compounds but things have changed a little since then. For example one of those compounds are no longer offered and they redirect you to a different one and that one is more expensive, but comes with a pad. If I were to get that one, would I still need to get a different pad? If any of you pros at this could put any links of the products I may need that would be awesome. Keep in mind I am on a tight budget.

[bass boss]

[Ozark Angler]

If you bought the Harbor Freight buffer, I'd buy the additional buffing kit that has an additional buffing foam rubber pad. BE EXTRA CARELFULL when using the pad on high speeds. If you touch the pad against anything rough or something that will snag the pad, it will crumble and start shreading all over the place and ruin the pad. I bumped my tie downs on my transom and POOF went the new buffing pad after I buffed only one side.

Just some FYI there.

Also, I used rubbing compound and it worked like a charm. You won't believe the difference and you'll wish you did it a long time ago. My boat is 30yrs old and it turned out great. If you have some spots that are white or just really rough, start off with 1,000 grit wet/dry sanding paper and wetsand the area in a small place as a test. Don't panic, use the buffer and see if you can remove the haze and scratches. If it's a mirror shine, you're good to go. If it's still rough or doesn't look like you got all of the oxidization, go down to an 800 grit and repeat.

Here are is a before and after of mine. You get the idea. The wet sanding makes a tremendous difference even if you need it or not. The buffer will only make it shine even more after wet sanding.





For those white areas you see above, I had to use an orbital sander with a foam pad to really work it over good. I don't recommend it though unless it's for extreme cases like mine. Why? Because you have to go back over that with 600 grit, then 800 grit, then up to 1000 grit, etc. You have to take it back up to a finer grain to get rid of the super rough surface. Again, for really bad areas only but as you can see, it works.

Good luck!

[bass boss]

thanks

[bass boss]

can anyone else chime in?

[basshole45]

spring for a quart of 3-m pro rubbing compound you can get it out of west marine or overtons it runs about 24 bucks a quart,i use a wool pad and a rotary buffer about 1200 rpms and move up in speed in some spots,finish it up with some 3-m finesse sealer and your good to go.also if you need to wetsand in a few spots which i doubt you will if you use that rubbing compound if its really light oxidation start out with 1500 or 1200 grit.soapy water when u wet sand helps out alot too just reg old dawn will work

[LSU24]

B*******45, will this work on a boat with just a little fading, and no oxidation? The black on my Stroker is a little faded, but not oxidized at all. I want to do this with mine, and have had a hard time finding exactly what I needed. Also, what pad do I use for the sealer? I'm trying to find a polisher at Harbor Freight, but they are always out when I go.
I ran into the same problem as bass boss. BTW, I called a fiberglass shop near my house, and they wanted to charge 400.00 to polish just the cap. I would rather do it myself.

[Ozark Angler]

If you do it yourself, you WILL NEED the Harbor Freight polisher or one similar. The high speed is needed to heat the finish and allow the polish to bond and blend into the finish. Something like that anyway. I just know from my experience that the extra speed makes a difference.

In the pictures I posted above, I recently re-sanded and polished the faded area because I had a few rough spots remaining from the wet sanding. I went back with 1000 grit and re-sanded and then polished with my 1/2" drill and a polishing pad and it only goes up to about 3,000 RPM. It looked better but didn't have that mirror shine. I used the Harbor Freight polisher and used the higher RPM and the finish is better than new!

You can order the polisher online and have it shipped to your house if you can't find it in the store.


If your finish is faded, is the gelcoat still good? No fading in the crystals? If it's just faded a little, use the rubbing compound and the high speed polisher only. No wetsanding is needed. You'll love the results of a few hours work!

[LSU24]

The gel coat is still perfect, just the black is a little faded, and on the side where it rubs on the fenders when loading. I just want to shine the boat up, and really don't have to wet sand.

[Ozark Angler]

Sounds like no wet sanding is needed for you then. A few hours with a high speed polisher and 3M rubbing compound will make the boat look new again.

Start with a slow RPM and polish the area and work your way up to the high speed RPM. Then remove the polish residue and apply a wax/sealer and it will be a slick high gloss finish.

[LSU24]

Ok, so use the 3M rubbing compound with a high speed polisher and wool bonnett to put it on. I let dry to a haze (?), then just use a terrycloth towel to take it off? Then just apply the wax by hand? I already got a coat of Meguires Flagship Premium on it, and use BBS after every trip.
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I don't want to screw up my boat, and I have never done this before.

[Ozark Angler]

In my opinion, DO NOT use a wool pad or anything rough. That will GREATLY scar the finish because it is course. I used a wool pad on the "white area" in my pics above because the 1,000 grit sandpaper was not enoughm, nor was 600grit paper. The wool pad is only used for removing more of the finish.

Since your finish is only dull and faded, simply use the foam pad buffer that comes with the HF polisher. Be carefull with the pad and do not polish close to any objects on the boat that could cause the pad to tear or rip. The high speed will rip the foam pad apart if it grabs a cleat tie-down or a rough edge.

The foam pad works awesome! And yes, you just apply the rubbing compound with the buffer and then wipe off with a wrag or towel. Then apply the wax. Maguires is great stuff. I would advise covering your carpet, trolling motor, etc. because the polisher can sling compound all over the boat, trailer, etc. Just wash it off or wipe off and you'll be fine.

As you can see from the results on my boat above, polishing will make a big difference!

[LSU24]

That is exactly the info I have been looking for.
Thanks!!!