Took a Mental Health day and got the outer skin back on , just waiting on my Seacast order and I can pourStarting to feel better about my time line before I go to Lakeside in Maine
http://share.shutterfly.com/ac...tag=1
this is how it sits now ready for the Seacast , and then I'll apply the Gelcote after drilling the mount holes and splash well drains
The transom is all together, capped it last night. need to redrill all the holes and gelcote . them start reassemble everything. got the new steering system ,but the dash hole is to large so I got to make a new one. will get some pics soon.
No expert here, but from experience. I can tell you if your transoms gone most all surrounding things are in bad shape also. I only had an 1/8" of flex.
My flotation boxes where half full of water and the transom was all rotten.
I hope you did some major glass work on the inside of that cut transom?
Good Luck!
Check out the seacast site. It's fine. Bonds to everything and is strong. Just make sure all of the rotted wood is out and clean the wood off of the skins for it to bond to. Just cut out the rotted wood and and pour the new stuff.
Let me know what the dimensions are for the top cap for the transom.
Will get it done pronto.
SOCIALISM IS NOT THE ANSWER
JUST LOOK WHERE EUROPE IS NOW
USA the NEW Greece
TYLER W.
PROCRAFT 170B/FORCE 120
Update - motor is back on
Mike,
STOP, Please call me in the morning... 940-243-2628...
I'm looking at this pic, and what I see REALLY concerns me.. I'm not trying to scare you, but the result of what I'm looking at won't be pretty if indeed that glass breaks.
If you look at where you cut the transom, and glassed over it, I don't see that you ground the old cut lines out and beveled them. You just glassed over them. While that will seal the water, the entire transom itself is ONLY as strong as the fiberglass you installed. Did you grind the surface with at least an 80 grit grinder before you started? If you didn't, that new glass will never stay put on the transom very long.
I'm not trying to criticize your work at all. But I would feel horrible if I didn't speak up and then that transom fell off the boat while under power.
What you need to do with those cuts is bevel them back 3 inches on each side of the cut, all the way around the transom. YOu want to make them look like a giant "V" that is ground almost all the way through the transom. YOu layup your fiberglass into that V, and fill it just like you would a weld on a seam. YOu don't weld directly over the seam. You bevel the metal back on each side, then fill in the bevel. You get much more surface area for your fiberglass to BOND to the existing glass. IN the picture you posted, the gelcote where you cut doesn't look disturbed. That sets off alarms with me instantly.
Once you get the outside of the transom repaired, then you need to reinforce those cuts on the inside of the hull so that way 100% of that fiberglass is restored, and reinforced.
Please call me if you have any questions. I will be more than happy to get you pointed into the right direction.
Thanks for the concern Mike, the pic's dont show but I preped much like you said. I glassed the inside in first, and them the outer with a layer of matt and then cloth over the Hole transom. - update did talk to Mike, thanks again for all the advice and taking your time and expert help with this project. should be able to hit the water Friday or SAT
Modified by Mike C at 11:47 AM 8/7/2008
All Done - finaly got to hit the water today. Seems like a lot more power transfer since the transom is solid now. Thanks for all the Input and Steve M for the Use of the mercuy lift ring .
Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO
99 cobra 190d
99 opti 200
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