93 Intruder 150

[Floyd]

I've had this problem since I've owned the boat for 2 years and cant seem to figure it out and I'm tired of "part swapping" I've taken it to a local service shop to do all of the work. Here's the issue.
I get to the lake, fire it up. Runs greats. Shut it off, fish for a bit... And this has been the symptoms as of late. It will fire, I put it in gear idle about 40 yards or so and then STOP. It doesnt even act like its flooding, just quits. Then I'll take it out of gear and crank on it and crank on it.. Tried with both key depressed at this point and it usually won't even fire if key isnt depressed. With key depressed and turning it will hit, fire, smoke and then die. It's kinda strange that if I let go of the key most the time it will die right then. If I keep it turned all the way right in the starting position it will stay on. Here's whats been done so far:

New primer bulb.
*1 rebuilt carb (every other thing supposively checked out fine)
*Shop said Power pack was replaced w/ cdi but EET wasn't changed out when it was done so EET was installed
*Throttle arm adjustment.
*Decarb


Yesterday I had it out.. Motor quit, luckily I was in a pocket that had a marina and saw a patrol man. He gave me a ride to my truck and I drove to that ramp and loaded it up. I was gone for about 25 mins or so and I used the trolling motor to get it on the trailer and as soon as the boat was on the trailer I thought I'd crank on it again..Fired right up and ran. So I went back to the original ramp, unloaded, ran it and it ran great, stopped by the ramp I unloaded on (so I wouldn't have to get another lift by the police man ) fished around 20 mins and it did the exacrt same thing.

Some days I can go out and it not mess up once. Tourney's are about to start and I'm at a loss. When the shop looked at it last and changed out the EET they said the only other thing they think it could be would just be the ignition. Does this sound right or does anyone have any ideas?

Sorry seems my plate that has my model number on it fell off I see where it was but its not there anymore.



Modified by Floyd at 6:53 AM 3/15/2010

[Danrude]

Sounds to me like you have a bad ignition switch! The fact that it will start then die when you release the key makes me think this. The kill part of the switch may be shorting or you are losing the B+ because of a bad connection or warn switch. here is a drawing of a typical switch to help you troubleshoot the problem. http://continuouswave.com/whal....html

[Floyd]

I'm guess this is going to be my next "part swap." Seems once it does its initial die it acts almost like it just flooding out or something. How much should the ignition set me back if I do it myself? Anyone else have any opinions on this?

[Danrude]

About $30.00.

[Floyd]

Called local service shop. They said new ignition is $25.00 in stock. They said it could be the cause for the ignition but kinda leaning towards a power pack at this point. BOAT.. BREAK OUT ANOTHER THOSAND!

[Danrude]

It could be a power pack problem but that was on your list of things that had been changed as I read your post. I based my diagnosis on the engine starting and dying when the key was released. Having said that if it is obvious that the starter is keeping it running because all cylinders are not firing then it probably is not the switch.

[Floyd]

Thanks for the replies! I went ahead and changed out the ignition today. I'm gonna run it tomorrow after work and see how it does. Just thinking positive here but now my buzzer gives me the system okay chirp when I turn the key to the on position when the other only did it once in 20 tries. Maybe that was it. I'll update when I'm done. If anyone else wants to chime in I'm all for suggestions. Next is the packs if this doesnt work.

[Floyd]

Someone advised it could be the fuel pump. Does this sound right? They said they had the same thing going on with a 98 rude and it fixed it.

[Danrude]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Floyd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Just thinking positive here but now my buzzer gives me the system okay chirp when I turn the key to the on position when the other only did it once in 20 tries. </TD></TR></TABLE> That is an important bit of information it would indicate that the switch is bad and may quite likely solve your problem. Good luck!

[t-bone]

Take a timing light with you, when it quits check for spark, if no spark i"d say PP

[Floyd]

Just in case its the pack is this the right one? 113-4985

[Floyd]

The problem is still going on. Went out yesterday after I replaced the ignition and the problem is still there. I've done some reading and with my symptoms listed I see either power pack or stator could be the problem. Any input? Im afraid if I take it to the shop it wont do it and then we'll be part swappin again.

[bassprokd]

When it quits running is the primer ball still hard or soft? I don't have near the experience as a lot of guys on here but let me take a stab at it. If the bulb is soft when it dies...prime it until it is hard again. If it fires and runs for a min or so and stops again then my guess is a bad fuel pump. You can check this with muffs in your driveway rather than take it out again and risk getting towed in. Disconnect the spark plug wires. Disconnect one of the fuel lines where it connects to the supply header at the carbs. Have someone turn the key and see if it is pumping any fuel (don't push the key in so the choke doesn't kick in). If it isn't pumping any fuel then time for a fuel pump rebuild.
I did this exact thing this last weekend to diagnose the fuel problem on my 94 150 intruder that I picked up a couple weeks ago. tore the fuel pump apart and there was a plastic piece on one of the diaphrams that had 6 plastic prongs sticking out of it. That piece had broken and separated in mine. Let us know what you find out.

[Floyd]

Primer bulb stays hard and pumping it doesnt do any different. Could this still be related to the fuel pump??

[bassprokd]

How long do you run it before it starts acting up? Is it up to temp while it is running or is the problem only when it gets hot? If it idles ok and gets up to WOT for a sustained period of time my guess is it is not the fuel pump. But like I said it is easy enough to check to make sure it is pumping fuel. The reason I thought it might be the fuel pump at first is b/c you said while you had the key on it would run...I was assuming that you had the key pressed in with the choke on which would get the carbs some fuel even with the fuel pump not working.

[Floyd]

I normally don't run any more than 5 to 10 minutes to any location. So I would think the motor would be at normal operating temps by then.

[rude power]

sound just like what my 93 150 did, would stop dead in its tracks and not start back up for at least 10 mins most time 15 mins and a power pack fixed it.Did this for two years could not replicate it at shop but on the water it done it, but not every time, got worse as time went on.

[Floyd]

Would it do the same thing as I descibed with the key engaged on yours?

[bassprokd]

Your going to have to get it to repeat and when it does you have to check for spark. Even though they said they installed a new power pack doesn't mean that it is working properly. My guess is that you are not getting spark to all your cylinders. Electrical problems can be very funny and inconsistent. Too bad you weren't nearby or I would let you test my power pack on your motor.

[Floyd]

I am thinking about just buying a pack and trying it. My concerns are that the EET was just replaced (CDI). Does this need to be replaced again since I've run it with a potentially bad power pack or can I just install a power pack and try?