My first try

[bonzter]

My first attempt at rodbuilding went well until I got to the finish on the guide wraps. Lumpy, bubbly, and a thread or two not cut short enough. I think I know what to do to improve on my next one, but is there anything that can be done to help this one?

[hooks2bset]

Everyone is different but heat will get the finish flat. Some breath on it though a straw, some use something like a heat gun but I use an alcohol lamp. I have just got use to it and that is the most important thing. As for the ends sticking out, if your using a lite finish that needs 2 coats just before the 2nd coat take a razor blade and shave them off smooth and after the 2nd coat it will be perfect

Good luck and if you need any help just IM me.

[George Roth]

Mike is right on. I also use an alcohol torch. The one I have is from Anglers Workshop and it is plastic with an air tube, so you an squeeze it and send a flame to the finish. It avoids the added heat of the main flame. Be gentle with the heat, though. I can cause finish starved areas. I'm not sure what finish you are using, but I use Threadmaster finish and have had few problems with it.

As for the "nubbin's" sticking up through the finish, cut them off with a razor and you should be good to go. I also cut the top off any air bubbles that may have formed on the first coat. That allows the finish of the 2nd coat to fill the void and you won't be able to see it.

Hope that helps........George

[bonzter]

I used Flex Coat Hi coat. It doesn't look quite as bad this mornin since its dried a little better. Can I use a second coat on it now and is there any prep that needs to be done? Thanks for the help guys.


Modified by bonzter at 6:45 AM 5/28/2008

[pd2fish]

Great answers above. Heat will definitely smooth it out.

Here is what I do to help keep from getting the bubbles and the unsmooth surface. I don't brush on the finish. I place not too much and not too little epoxy on to the guide (it will be trial and error until you get use to how much you need). Don't actually touch the brush to the threads when applying as the rod is turning just keep enough of the brush in the epoxy to spread it around. It is a little time consuming to do it this way and sometimes I am cutting it close on the pot life of the epoxy by the time I finish the last guide but generally I don't have too many guides that I ever have to go back to and touch up.
If you feel like you are getting too much epoxy on them stop the rod from turning and the epoxy will begin to form a drip on the bottom, remove any excess and then begin turning again.

Go back over once finished with alcohol burner to remove any bubbles that did form. Becareful not to keep the burner in any one place for too long. Don't ask how I know...

I hope this helps.

[thedude]

does anyone use a metal spatula? i think it was a forhan article i was reading and he mentioned that is how he does it?

only thing i would add to this is - a lot of bubbles can be removed prior to applying the epoxy. Make sure you mix it well (obviously) but then let it sit under a warm light for a few minutes to level out. The light/warmth will force most of the bubbles from mixing out, after a few minutes you should have crystal clear finish. Apply some heat after you put it on the guides and you should be bubble free.

[hooks2bset]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone use a metal spatula? i think it was a forhan article i was reading and he mentioned that is how he does it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I use one but I have been trying the brush way and I have to admit my ends look better and I think it has to do with the way the brush flows with the guide foot instead of jumping over it. I also at the end of last year got a power wrapper and I think some of the jumping had to with the speed the rod is turning which in the past I didn't have to worry about.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thedude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you mix it well (obviously) but then let it sit under a warm light for a few minutes to level out. The light/warmth will force most of the bubbles from mixing out, after a few minutes you should have crystal clear finish. Apply some heat after you put it on the guides and you should be bubble free.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 great tipe I forgot about

[George Roth]

I personally use a 6 mm sable brush. I find that when using a brush, I can form a bead of finish that I can push over the edge of the thread as I turn it by hand. It makes a nice, smooth and typically "straight" edge to your finish. I can clean / reuse a brush for a long period of time...unless I forget and leave it laying around with the finish still in it!

Rich was the guy that did an article about using a spatula. In my case, old habits are hard to break!

By using heat, you are thinning the finish just enough to release the bubbles. I use an aluminum measuring cup to mix mine in. I mix 2 ml of each for a total of 4 ml. If I mix up more, it tends to begin sitting up before I can get it on the blank. In a 1/4 c. container, it is able to spread out and most of the bubbles have dissipated by the time that I start applying it.

Your FlexCoat should work in much the same way as the Threadmaster. I have found the Threadmaster to be better at self-leveling and the finish is definitely clearer when it dries. Make sure your wraps are right before you put it on because it has the ability to magnify any errors that you may have left behind. Don't ask me how I know that, either! lol.

Good luck........George

[hooks2bset]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Roth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have found the Threadmaster to be better at self-leveling and the finish is definitely clearer when it dries.</TD></TR></TABLE>

100% agree! I have truley enjoyed the change to TM Now if the quick set Rod Bond would hurry up and be released

[George Roth]

Mike...

Have you used Andy's "Ultimate Epoxy - 15"? If not, you need to give it a shot. It is more of a gel than a paste like Rod Bond. Nothing wrong with Rod Bond, but I been using the UE-15 and I really like the reduced waiting time to continue working on the rod. He also makes a 5-minute and 60-minute formula.

George

[hooks2bset]

Thanks George I will give Andy a call and get some but I wonder if AW is carrying it, I will have to check and have it shipped with the rest of my order if they do.

[currituckbasser]

http://www.merricktackle.com/t...p.gif

I found this link today & wish I had found it when I replaced a guide on a rod. I believe that if I had mixed it correctly the finished product would have turned out much better.

[hooks2bset]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by currituckbasser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.merricktackle.com/t...p.gif

I found this link today & wish I had found it when I replaced a guide on a rod. I believe that if I had mixed it correctly the finished product would have turned out much better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

[Bassn81]

I switched to Threadmaster finish from LS and FlexCoat, works much better for me. Check out this article at Rodbuilding.org. This is all you need to know about epoxy finshing. I differ from the article only in the fact that I turn my rods on a dryer as soon as I am done applying.

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/betterepoxy.pdf