Puma STS wiring question - Master Power Switch?

[rlb8s]

Is an additional power switch or resettable breaker needed on the house battery if the battery is used only for starting, jack plate, A-10 touch pad, and PPs (PPs have their own breaker) - would the master power switch near the driver seat suffice? Is there any power draw when the master power switch near the driver is turned off, and if so what would it be?

I have dedicated electronic battery with its own breaker so the electronics shouldn't be factored into the discussion.

Thanks.

[Bass Cat Boats]

Technically, yes… anytime a wire is connected to the battery, a circuit protection is required within 6” of the main terminal. You can connect to a protected source without adding more.

[rlb8s]

Thanks. I will leave the breaker in place.

[1958]

I thought the cranking cable had to be connected directly to battery. It is labeled clean power.
My setup has cranking, trim, Jack plate, and mercury smart gauge directly to battery. A breaker for master switch a10, compartment lights, security/horn. This setup lets me turn the a10 panel off but still be able to have security on. Lids have to be closed to have security on which means can't charge agm lead battery and have security on at same time since you need to open lids during charge

[Bass Cat Boats]

You’re right on the cranking lead.

I thought the cranking cable had to be connected directly to battery. It is labeled clean power.
My setup has cranking, trim, Jack plate, and mercury smart gauge directly to battery. A breaker for master switch a10, compartment lights, security/horn. This setup lets me turn the a10 panel off but still be able to have security on. Lids have to be closed to have security on which means can't charge agm lead battery and have security on at same time since you need to open lids during charge

[rlb8s]

I thought the cranking cable had to be connected directly to battery. It is labeled clean power.
My setup has cranking, trim, Jack plate, and mercury smart gauge directly to battery. A breaker for master switch a10, compartment lights, security/horn. This setup lets me turn the a10 panel off but still be able to have security on. Lids have to be closed to have security on which means can't charge agm lead battery and have security on at same time since you need to open lids during charge

Mine seems to be the same. I am trying to figure out why I am having A10 pad issues and thought removing the breaker from the A10 leads may help. I will be on my third A10 panel once it arrives this week.

[1958]

I know you said in your previous post about this the master switch light stayed on all day. I wonder if it is possible the light can stay on but the switch is still bad not letting sufficient electrical flow. I say this cause the switch to my live scope was bad. Easy replacement.
I hate electric problems especially when they work sometimes. Replacing switch would be easy and if not that then since it's under warranty I would be hauling it to the dealer

[rlb8s]

1958 - It worked flawlessly during 3 days of practice and first two days of the tournament. Then on Friday morning it was totally dark when I started the motor and pulled away from the dock. It then worked as it should about 10 minutes later, through boat checks until about 1230 when I noticed I hadn't heard the recirc in a while and I checked on my fish and they were floating. I tried to get the panel working with no joy so I put up my rods for the day - no sense killing the two fish I still needed to fill out the limit. As I was idling out I stopped and talked w/ a friend fishing the same creek. I watched him fish and BSed w/ him for about an hour before needing to head in. The panel started working when I tried it before cranking for the run in. I am at a loss on to why I am having the issue. I find it hard to believe that I just got bad panels. There must be something else causing it. My new panel should be here before my tournament on Saturday and I'll see how it goes.

[1958]

That's why I said perhaps the master switch. My live scope switch would work then not then work etc etc. But your light stays on so perhaps it's some other connection. It's just an easy thing to replace so maybe worth a try
Once my motor wouldn't start, then it would, then it wouldn't. Was sure I had a starter going out. Turned out the kill switch was flipped right in the middle of on/off. It made connection to start then it wouldn't.