There's always something

[billnorman1]

Got a two day club tournament starting today. I gotta tow out of here in the dark and hopefully not tow back in the dark. My Port side yellow marker light has been getting dimmer and dimmer, which is odd for a L E D. Last night, it went totally out. I went to Walmart bought a light assembly put it in but it didn't work. I had only 6 to 8 VDC on the input wire which is odd because I should have 12+ or zero.
I checked the splices on and in the frame they all pull tested good. I went back to the LH taillight and pull tested those 2 splices. I guess I pulled too hard, because I broke both wires near the splices. SH*T. It's late, I'm old and I need some rest, but I break out the splice kit and the strippers.
I stripped the Brown wire. Went to twist the wire and it broke off. Odd. Stripped it again, the conductor broke off again. I found the wire strands had disintegrated inside the insulation. I have seen a half inch or so get discolored inside insulation, but I had to cut off about 8 inches to get to a point I could splice to the wire.
This could happen to you. Now I have to rewire the whole damn trailer apparently the insulation allows the wire do dissolve inside it.
At least the side marker does work ( at this time).
Just a word to the wise, if it looks like a wire, it might not be a wire inside.

[Champ 2001]

I had a similar situation happen to me. While troubleshooting a outside light fixture over a hangar door , I was getting low voltage at the fixture. Went to the circuit breaker panel and found the neutral wire on the bussbar only had a couple strands left where it connected to the bussbar. I had to go down the wire an inch or so to find good wire.

[leonreno]

If voltage is lower than it ought to be but not zero, it’s almost always resistance, caused by bad connection(s), corroded connectors or corroded wire. My boat is saltwater used and corroded wires inside the insulation is pretty common. The best solution is to use adhesive lined heat shrink connectors, does the best to keep water from wicking up the wires inside the insulation. Last trip out I noticed my left trailer tail light wasn’t working properly, it was dimming and flicking off. Thought that was strange as about a year earlier I had completely rewired the trailer and used heat shrink connectors on all connections and the lights were on top of guide post. Well after looking at the connectors, somehow I had used the heat shrink butt connectors but never used the heat gun on those connectors on that light, wires totally brittle and corroded. Was able to cut back far enough to make them work on the way home but wiring on it had to be completely redone after that.

[SteezMacQueen]

Just a word to the wise, if it looks like a wire, it might not be a wire inside.

I have been working on cars for 36 years. I specialize in electrical kinda stuff. I can’t tell how many times I’ve had your result while diagnosing old cars “issues”.

Sometimes it’s just less frustrating to yank it all out and start with new wiring.

[CJ1]

I have been working on cars for 36 years. I specialize in electrical kinda stuff. I can’t tell how many times I’ve had your result while diagnosing old cars “issues”.

Sometimes it’s just less frustrating to yank it all out and start with new wiring.

And some people wonder why a sea water flooded car is not a good idea. CJ

[ch]

So…I noticed my 3 clearance lights under the rear roller goin dim then goin out all together. Now I’ve noticed my right taillight (the brake light is fine) is starting to lose some of the little bulbs. They’re all LED’s. Are y’all saying it’s more than likely a wiring problem and not the lights just goin bad?

[Champ 2001]

LED lights are supposed to last a long time, unlike incandescent bulbs which have a shorter life span. You may have a grounding issue.

[RoadrashPaul]

Exact same thing happened on my current boat. Bought it and lights worked sometimes and not others. Visually looked OK but when I grabbed the wire to check connection it snapped off. Basically broke wherever I tried for 4-5' up from the taillights. Ordered new lights and a new wiring kit. Not messing with trying to splice and fix that garbage.

[hankgun]

Not messing with trying to splice and fix that garbage.

Splicing is just a band aid looking for a time to fail.

[billnorman1]

Exact same thing happened on my current boat. Bought it and lights worked sometimes and not others. Visually looked OK but when I grabbed the wire to check connection it snapped off. Basically broke wherever I tried for 4-5' up from the taillights. Ordered new lights and a new wiring kit. Not messing with trying to splice and fix that garbage.

Unfortunately I think the insulation on the harnesses is less than optimum. It feels porous to me. I could be wrong, but it isn't hard and shiny like other wiring.

[RoadrashPaul]

Unfortunately I think the insulation on the harnesses is less than optimum. It feels porous to me. I could be wrong, but it isn't hard and shiny like other wiring.

Just replace it. I bought this. It's so cheap and easy to do. I would love to offer to help you but Delaware is a pretty far drive from here
https://www.amazon.com/SUZCO-Trailer...98&sr=8-8&th=1

[billnorman1]

Just replace it. I bought this. It's so cheap and easy to do. I would love to offer to help you but Delaware is a pretty far drive from here

It's just a short 12 hour driving trip unless you have an electric car, and then it's 2 days because you have to wait for a plug site if you can find one. I have the smarts (20+ years as an aircraft electrician) but at 81 getting up and down is becoming challenging.
I made the original post to help some of us with intermittent light issues. I have had to strip insulation back in the past to get to uncorroded or discolored wiring but never several inches. For some reason my side marker light actually lit, although dimly, with 7 or 8 VDC. I thought it would be either a go or no go, either bright or out.

[MikeF]

I stripped the Brown wire. Went to twist the wire and it broke off. Odd. Stripped it again, the conductor broke off again. I found the wire strands had disintegrated inside the insulation. I have seen a half inch or so get discolored inside insulation, but I had to cut off about 8 inches to get to a point I could splice to the wire.
This could happen to you. Now I have to rewire the whole damn trailer apparently the insulation allows the wire do dissolve inside it.

Probably copper clad aluminum wire in the trailer wire harness.

Compare the price of equivalent lengths of the same gauge wire in copper stand wire and you can see the obvious question.

How can the replacement trailer wire harnesses be so cheap?



You are probably correct on the quality of the wire covering also.

Water permeation of the covering into the clad wire and then ultimate corrosion when current is supplied.


All the trailers I have rewired with Anchor marine tinned copper 16 ga wire never seem to have problems thereafter, unless one of the lights crap out.


Good Luck