Transom Crack Advice

[mac18]

I am not sure if this is the best forum for this post or not. I have a 1997 Viper Cobra 20 foot bass boat that has had two cracks near the top of the transom. The one in the photos is on the starboard side, there is another one just like it on the port side but it is harder to see because there is a carbon monoxide warning sticker over it. I am thinking of repowering this boat with a new Mercury 250XS four stroke and am wondering if these two cracks indicate there could be issues with transom rot and maybe this boat isn't a good choice for repowering. The cracks have been there for a long time and don't seem to be getting worse. I don't notice any soft spots or weeping or discolored areas. Currently I have a two-stroke Mercury 200 EFI on the boat which is about 80lbs lighter than the new four stroke would be. I am curious what others think, thanks.

[illinifish]

Maybe a stress crack from the outboard hitting something. I would seal those up ASAP to avoid water intrusion. You may want to have someone pull hard on the outboard and you visually check to see if they expand under pressure.

[Rangerdeepv]

The areas of those cracks would concern me even without repowering. That would be for a fiberglass boat repairer to look at for myself.

[Ranger519VS]

I am not overly concerned by those cracks (of course, its not my boat). They don't look like typical failed transom type cracks. I would have a fiberglass professional look at it though before repowering.

Most Champions that age have rotted transoms and Cobra is nothing more than a rebranded Champion so it bears looking at the integrity of the wood in the transom. Also, those are narrow hulls and I wonder about how they are going to like additional weight of a 4S.

[mac18]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I will change out my 3 lead acid trolling batteries and the big heavy charger for lithium batteries to lose some of the weight in the back of the boat if the additional 80lbs is too much. My Cobra has new Garmin electronics, new Force trolling motor, older gen 1 Talons and a number of smaller upgrades so it fishes well for me the way it is rigged. I am really on the fence about repowering because of the age of the hull but my 200 EFI is getting up there in age..........

[mactlman]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I will change out my 3 lead acid trolling batteries and the big heavy charger for lithium batteries to lose some of the weight in the back of the boat if the additional 80lbs is too much. My Cobra has new Garmin electronics, new Force trolling motor, older gen 1 Talons and a number of smaller upgrades so it fishes well for me the way it is rigged. I am really on the fence about repowering because of the age of the hull but my 200 EFI is getting up there in age..........

efi is a bullet proof motor basically run it til it blows

[OK_BassBum]

To me those cracks appear to be from striking a dock or trees.
If you notice, those cracks are above the transom line where the motor mounts.
But you can always post your pics in Bass Boat Restoration, the fiberglass guys live there!
Good Luck!

[Bass Cat Boats]

We don’t feel those cracks alone indicate an issue, unless more accompany them elsewhere. It appears to us that these could be related to a workmanship issue in lamination and possibly cutting the gel when installing the top cap to hull.

This alone doesn’t bother us and we would just have it fixed, where you can learn a little more while it’s open and ground out.

Now the cost to repower a boat that age is a very different question. If it develops other issues, it will be putting more money in on top of the repower.

BCB

[ChampioNman]

I am not overly concerned by those cracks (of course, its not my boat). They don't look like typical failed transom type cracks. I would have a fiberglass professional look at it though before repowering.

Most Champions that age have rotted transoms and Cobra is nothing more than a rebranded Champion so it bears looking at the integrity of the wood in the transom. Also, those are narrow hulls and I wonder about how they are going to like additional weight of a 4S.

Nice jab at the Champs, the only thing the Cobra has in common is the designer John Storie. That's like saying a Nitro is a rebranded Ranger. I have an 1989 20' Champion and have no stress cracks in that area and my transom is not rotted. Hull width has nothing to do with it.

[JJohnSind]

I’d only repower a boat that was flawless. Any fiberglass issues, even cosmetic, would be a deal breaker for me. I had a boat pretty close recently, but, in the end, decided against repowering. Just too much of a depreciation hit if you end up selling it sooner than later. Already owned the boat for 14 years, and thought it’d be unlikely I’d be happy keeping it for another 10, not to mention replacement parts were already getting harder to find.

[mac18]

I have been planning to take the boat in to my local dealer that does fiberglass repair but it is really helpful to get these opinions. Lots of great feedback and it is sincerely appreciated

[Bass Cat Boats]

mac18, we honestly don’t think this spot indicates a long term problem alone. Though if other areas show issues then it’s possible there is more to it.

While there is a definite relationship between Cobra and Champions former ownerships, there is no similar construction in the transoms or hull designs. The transom on age on a Champion of issue was built after Storie ownership and was under the Porthouse regime. While there are some similarities, this was not one.

BCB

I have been planning to take the boat in to my local dealer that does fiberglass repair but it is really helpful to get these opinions. Lots of great feedback and it is sincerely appreciated

[mac18]

mac18, we honestly don’t think this spot indicates a long term problem alone. Though if other areas show issues then it’s possible there is more to it.

While there is a definite relationship between Cobra and Champions former ownerships, there is no similar construction in the transoms or hull designs. The transom on age on a Champion of issue was built after Storie ownership and was under the Porthouse regime. While there are some similarities, this was not one.

BCB

Thanks for that clarification. I can't find a single crack in any other spot below the rub rail. Everything seems really solid and always has. I tried standing on the cavitation plate and pulling on the engine but it doesn't budge. I have seen a number of posts on the Cobra forum regarding cracks in the top cap which according to folks that worked in the Cobra/Viper factory are cosmetic. Unfortunately my boat has always had these top cap cracks but it didn't bother me much because I purchased this boat back in 2006 for what would be considered nothing today. It has surpassed my expectations over the last 15 years so that was the only reason I was considering a repower over buying new or near new. I will try to make sure the top cap rivets are not loose and discuss this with the dealer as well.
Not only have you responded with useful information, it sounds like you have even checked with others in your organization. Thank you so much! This site is truly amazing.

[1Holeshot]

It somewhat looks like an overlay was place on top of the original gel coat instead of a crack. Run a thumbnail up from below area in question to feel if it is higher. If it is maybe not a crack after all.

[brushsjigs]

When was the last time you pulled the jack plate bolts and re-caulked. If never, would be a good time to check if the wood is soft. Needs to be done anyway. Being that high, I would say its cosmetic. They might have not applied enough glass in that area and blew the gel coat to cover it up. Ive seen some sad things on boats. I saw one dealer that was going to mount a jack plate on a well known brand boat. As soon as the man drilled thru the gel coat the drill went forward about an inch. There was no fiberglass inside the transom. We both looked at each other with eyes wide open. He called the factory and their reply was to just fill it.