How can I tell If it is oiling rite? It dont smoke at any time. I just got the boat. the motor has a new power head, and every thing was updated. What oil should I run? Should I mix some oil in the gas, like the older motors? I dont know any thing about the injected motors. I have had other boats, but thay were carbed. How much water pressure does this motor need? E175FPLEEC G 04615097 THANKS FOR THE INFO
The FFI engines aren't prone to smoke. Do not mix the oil and gas. I run nothing but BRPs XD-100 in mine. I would look for no less than 18 lbs water pressure.
My motor is a similar model as yours...I very rarely see smoke. Like you I was worried when I first got the boat and saw no smoke. In the winter time mine will set few for a couple of weeks at a time. That is the only time I see smoke. Even then it is only one small puff at the first start up in the morning. I have fired my motor up on a water hose and you will see a small puff then but nothing like a cloud of smoke associated with carburetor or EFI motors.
FFI motors Ficht Fuel Injection are also referred to as DFI motors. When Yamaha released the HPDI and Mercury released the Opti Max they called them DFI Direct Fuel Injection. Evinrude now refers to the E-tech as a DFI motor. DFI motors waste no oil. On a carburetor and EFI motor the oil and gas are mixed before it reaches the combustion stroke. The oil and gas are not directly mixed together on a DFI motor. You have a computer that tells the fuel injectors when to inject gas and you have oil injectors that inject oil exactly when the motor needs it. It is a fine mist that is almost completely burned up in the ignition process. That is the reason why a DFI motor is more fuel efficient and puts out less pollution than a traditional carburetor or EFI motor.
*Please note disclaimer...I am not a mechanic. The above motor information is what I have learned buy reading information here on BBC
How long did you have the motor? Any problems? How much water pressure did it run? What prop? Thanks for the info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mudduck9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long did you have the motor? Any problems? How much water pressure did it run? What prop? Thanks for the info.
I bought my 99 in 01 and it had 60 hrs on it at the time. I had the hours checked on the computer 3-4 years ago? and at that time is was at 375hrs. I would estimate that it is now around 550 hrs + or- ?
So far only one problem that I have addressed...I had to replace the Power Distribution Panel. The wires from the tilt and trim go to the PDP and plug in. The male post on the PDP was loose. The female side of the plug was not making a good connection so I had to replace the PDP.
I am currently having an issue with the check engine light. It is am intermittent problem that has been going on since late summer/early fall. Due to personal reasons I have not used the boat much in the last few months and probably wont use it much this winter. I plan on taking it to the shop and pulling the codes to see why the check engine light is coming on.
I turn a 24p Raker to 5550 (light load) heavy load 53-5400 . Very rarely do I turn it that high. I like to cruse at 4000-4200. If I am in a hurry I will crank it up above 5000 but only run WOT for short periods.
At WOT trimmed all the way out it has 17 pounds of water pressure. At cruising RPM it will hold 25 or more.
Are you familiar with the early small block Fichts...they were troublesome motors. Like any motor they require regular maintenance. They also require what I reefer to as some special care.All motors need to have the water pump,spark plugs and fuel filter changed on a regular basis.
On a Ficht or E-tech... regardless of what year the plugs need to be index *I don't know if that statement applies to smaller hp motors I am referring to any thing 150 hp and up* Plus the computer requires a high cranking amp battery for proper start up and ignition (1000cca battery) You always want to let the motor warm up to operating temperature before you drop the hammer.
The early small block Fichts were prone to carbon build up. That is the reason I run a 100% fully syenthic oil (Amsoil) XD 100 would be another good choice. FYI all 100% syenthic oil burns much cleaner than conventional or blended oil. It leaves little to no carbon build up. I personally prefer Amsoil but that is a different discussion anyways... look at your motor and see if it has pinned cylinder heads. They are the good cylinder heads and if it has those type heads it should also have the updated software in the computer. If you don't know how to identify pinned cylinder heads look for the web site called boatsetup.com That web site goes into details on how to identify pinned heads and how to index plugs and what type plug and how much torque.
*Disclaimer* in no way am I a mechanic. The above info is things I have learned buy reading things here on BBC. Plus I live 10 minutes away from a very reputable certified Evinrude mechanic. He has retired with in the last couple of years and no longer works on boat motors. After his retirement I ran into him a few times and we always talk for a long period of time about small block Fichts. I have picked his brain for information and learned a lot but that does not make me a mechanic. There are certified Evinrude gurus on this site that would be more than glad to help you out...as soon as I find out what code my check engine light is throwing I plan on using this discussion board for help myself.
Sorry for the long reply..feel free to ask questions and I will answer as best as I can
Modified by JR19 at 6:51 PM 11/30/2008
Modified by JR19 at 6:53 PM 11/30/2008
I dont know much about them. I got it from a dealer . It has a new power head every thing updated, and all the problems corected. What do you mean by special care?
I went back and modified my reply buy adding what I reefer to as special care
How much is the amsoil, and where do you get it ? Do you know anything about the pensoil ful senthetic? Its about $25 a gal. I change my sparke plugs and filters once a year. Is that ok? I change the lower unit oil 2 times ayear. I fish year around, so the boat wont set for more than 4 days at any time.
I pay $23.95 plus tax (around $25) a gallon for Amsoil. I am within a 5-20 minute drive of 3 places that sell it. Our local NAPA store,a small bait shop/country store and a local Marina. There are a few dealers here on BBC also.
Pensoil full synthetic...I have no experience with it but I would say that it is a better oil than a conventional oil or a blended oil...I just like Amsoil
Change plugs once per year or every 100 hrs which ever comes first. I have changed my plugs with a lot less than 100hrs on them because I personally think all two stroke motors need to have fresh plugs in them to run at their peak performance. I also pull my plugs 1/2 way through the year and make sure the gap is still at .028 FYI a set of 6 plugs are not cheap $50
I change my fuel filter every other year which should equal 100 hrs or less the way I use my boat.
I change my lower unit fluid every year before freezing weather sets in. I am sure it has less than 100hrs on the fluid but I want to also check my gear case for water before freezing temps start so I automatically change the fluid whether it needs it or not. If you are changing your lower unit fluid two times per year I would say that is more than enough and would stick with what works for you.
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