0G898582 How do you properly replace the poppet valve carrier? The old one just fell out. The new one I got from a local dealer is tapered on one side and flat on the other and of a size that is going to make for a tight fit. I understand this is to be press fit into the block but which way out and how is it to be pressed into place? The seat has a sharp edge that hampers any install. Thanks for any help.
tapered goes into block , drive in with mandrel that fits OD then stake in with punch around edge
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
This is exactly what I have done. Valve slips in and out with no effort whatsoever BUT, I still have way too much water pressure. On a fresh start on the hose I have just short of 8# and at 1000 rpm it's already over 10#. Now new poppet valve, thermostats, and complete water pump. I've traced through every port and passage I can think of and still have too much pressure. The only thing that comes to mind for me is that the spring on the poppet is too heavy but I have no reference as to what spring pressure should be. Even my tattletale appears to be stronger than any outboard I've ever seen. I was on the water yesterday and ran it just to see what I had and at WOT it was at 38#. I didn't run it long but just wanted to see. I never saw any sign of overheating either and ran it at around 30mph for a good while. Sure would appreciate a bit more help on calming this pressure problem. I ordered a quicksilver poppet kit just to compare things that should be here in a couple days.Originally Posted by JOE54
you may have head gasket leaking compression into cooling system
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
This is what I was wondering. I'm gonna pull the poppet apart again and if I don't see anything I'll do a pressure test this afternoon.
Joe I really appreciate your responses. Thanks a bunch.
becarful there may only be a slight diff in readings , leak down will show for sure
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
I'm more fascinated now than before. Ran compression test cold and all 6 holes were within 3# across the board. Warmed the thing up and reran everything and all 6 were within 3# there also. Then ran leak down test before it cooled down and again showed excellent results. I then removed the poppet valve and cover, hooked up the muffs and ran it with the port open. I held my hydrocarbon sniffer as close as I dared to the poppet opening and it registered nothing. I would have no problem popping the heads off but after all this testing I'm sure it's not a gasket issue.
I can't help but think my issue is directly related to the poppet spring. I assembled the valve and used a scale to compress the spring and found it took just short of 10# of direct pressure to get the valve to begin to move. If the valve is meant to open from 4 to 9# this isn't going to be possible. I have a quicksilver kit on the way since none of the local dealers have anything in stock right now. I've also read on a couple other sites about a poppet valve with a groove in the sealing face that was used to eliminate overheating issues at low rpm but I have no idea where to acquire one.
Before you go any further: Are these numbers from a SMARTCRAFT instrument, or an ANALOG GAUGE?
If from Analog Gauge, does the gauge ZERO when the engine is turned off?
Be careful what you read... there are very few of this particular engine that actually made "too much" water pressure unless incorrect or aftermarket water pump components were introduced.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
The gauge in the dash is an analog Sierra gauge that I have matched to my SnapOn test gauge. Both read identical and both zero when off.
I actually believe little of what I read without verification which is why I'm here. The pump I put in came from the largest Merc dealer in the area although it is Quicksilver marked 46-96148A 8. I've had reservations as to this being the right part but the dealer assures me it is.I went there in order to get OEM parts but the parts guy there also tells me they have been so busy he's having trouble getting enough parts to keep up.
Another strange part of this is the fact that I'm not overheating at speed, although I seldom run WOT, nor am I running too cool at idle. Did some trolling one day last week in gear at idle for around an hour with no issues. The day before I ran 18 miles one way and back at around 35 to 40 mph showing just short of 30# water pressure with no temp issues there either.
Could there be something about the air compressor that is introducing pressure into the system. The first thing I noticed about this thing when I got it was the really strong tattletale.
96148A8 is perfectly acceptable for that engine. Your engine does NOT utilize the rubber "slinger" washer atop the pump housing.
Also make sure that a bead of silicone was put across the exhaust divider (just aft of the water pump).
Simple way to confirm if the compressor might be causing it (actually two simple ways):
1. Disconnect supply hose, cap off fitting. Start engine at idle (for no more than 1 minute run-time) and monitor water pressure to note any difference.
2. Pressure test the cooling circuit of the air compressor (gearcase pressure tester or bicycle pump on one fitting, cap the other fitting, pressurize to about 8-9 psi and see if it holds. *
* Bleed off the AIR PRESSURE in the air side of the rails BEFORE and DURING this test (just to see if pressure is possibly escaping in the cylinder of the air compressor).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thank you sir! Will do first thing in the morning. You have no idea how much I appreciate this info. Evidently this motor is sort of a freak nowadays since I've had such a time getting any info. I've spoken to techs from 3 semi-local dealers (one of which I used to bore and sleeve blocks for) and they all seem to know nothing about them. I'll let you know.
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