Pics of your Fuel/Water separator setup please

[skeetzx225]

I'm thinking of having this done and would like to see some install pics so I can explain to the tech where I want it installed. Most installs I've seen have been under the rear rigging area. Don't they typically run about $150?

[wildkat7]

Me too...let's see 'em and how hard is it?

[Neilslure]

Mine is mounted in the back compartment all the way at the back in the center, can hardly see it or reach it let alone get a good pic.

[shominiy]

My Skeeter has it mounted in the back center as well. Just replaced it this past weekend and had to change it by "touch". Difficult to get a picture.

[fishin couillon]

Ok, here is my setup. I have a SX190 so there is not much room in the back to mount it anywhere. So i had my BIL make me a bracket. As you can see, i mounted it to the oil tank bracket. So far so good.

[Rodney Bledsoe]

[jfdawson]

[skeetzx225]

Thanks for the pics, do you guys feel this should be a mandatory accessory? What if regular use of seafoam is used? I ask because the filter that drain s on the bottom will cost me $200 installed, the regular filter model will be $150 installed. Any worrys about the hoses coming loose and shooting gas in the rigging area?

[jfdawson]

i think this is a mandatory install due to the Ethenol being added to our gas at the pump. AS for as cost, I think the set up ( Yamaha version ) is around $70, and if you install it yourself you save some there ( it's not that difficult ). You need a few extra items: hose clamps and screw ( nut, washer, and bolt x2 ) to mount it. I installed mine and had it for 2 years with no issues of gas leaking or getting into the bilge area. When I change the filter I just take a grocery sack and wrap around it to make sure if gas spills, that it spills into the grocery sack and not in the bilge area.

I use Yamaha Ring Free with every tank, so that has NOTHING to do with Water/Ethenol getting in your engine and protecting you.

- JD

[skeetzx225]

Do you have the model # of the blue yamaha one? I believe I've seen the one that has the water drain at the bottom, this is supposed to save the filter? Any truth to that?

[jfdawson]

Here's a couple of options:

you want the 10 micron set up ( MAR-SEPAR-AT-OR Yamaha 10-Micron Aluminum Fuel/Water Separator ) $54.85


http://www.usboatsupplies.com/...=AYOM


or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

I think you also need to buy 2 3/8 Male Fuel hose barb fittings



Modified by jfdawson at 10:01 AM 4/9/2009

[Ron S]

I just installed mine this weekend and it took about an hour and a half and I custom made a bracket to mount in next to the fuel switch at the back of the access hatch on the motor side. THis is a very easy install and I only paided $52.00 including the fittings.
If you install yours, make sure you pre-prime your filter with gas before you hit the lake and have to reprime the system 3 times before the air is all out of the system





Modified by Ron S at 9:12 AM 4/9/2009

[skeetzx225]

I like the idea of a drain valve on the bottom, so I can constantly monitor and drain the system easily. Is the Racor brand the best?

[skeetzx225]

For those with the blue Yamaha filter, how much do new filters cost to replace? I like the simplicity, just want to know if it's cost effective vs the Racor with the drain valve..

I've made up my mind about getting one now though...just trying to determine which one...

[Ron S]

The spin on filters are $10.00 at my mechanics. I was told change them out about once a year unless I suspect high moisture then change it again. At $10.00 I think I will do it a couple times a year.

[jfdawson]

the blue yamaha filter is about $30 from my dealer. May be a few $$ cheaper online. one problem you may have if you go with a drain valve style is getting a pan or something underneath to catch the gas. The back compartment isn't really designed for these, so it's tight quarters back there. The newer Skeeters ship with them preinstalled directly above the drain plug- mounted back under the top cap... in my opinion a royal PAIN in the arce to replace the filter.

Note: I've also read discussions that you can replace the filter across brands, meaning yamaha mounts with Racor filters and vice versa... I'm not stating this as fact, but some of the threads say they work if you get filters with the same thread pattern. In case you decide to switch brands later.

- JD

[fishin couillon]

For some cheap insurance, put one on. Like said earlier, should be able to do it your self and save some money. This is repeats but if you do it yourself fill the filter up with gas first before putting on. When i change mine i just use a rag under it incase of spillage. Now for filters here they are about $10. Cheap. As for the clear bowl, that would be your choice. I like the idea cause you can see if you have water or not, with the yamaha you can't tell. I'm about to change mine after 7 months just because it's cheap to do it.

[skeetzx225]

Why fill it with fuel before replacing an old one? Is there any priming/bleeding involved with these filters?

[fishin couillon]

Do it with your all filters you put on. Why, cause you will be sitting there pumping your bulb forever. Well not really but you get what i'm saying. Lets just say that's the easy way to do it.

I'm correcting myself, i just bought a new filter and it was $20, not $10.


Modified by fishin couillon at 10:11 AM 4/10/2009

[Ron S]

$20.00? I might have to run down and buy 5 or 6 if they are going up. Last weekend I payed $10.00 for the half quart white 10 micron filter. Maybe your talking the full quart blue Yamaha filter?