The bottom of the LW has a rubber drain plug that can be a bit loose. A few people have had them come out when the boat is backed into the water. I don't think there is a need to machine a plug to use in this location. To stay in place and seal it needs a slight taper towards the head. This can cause it to taper lock if pushed in forcefully. This spot in the LW would be a very bad place to have a taper locked plug. There is a way to tighten your factory rubber plug very easily. Go to your local fastener/hardware store and buy a 5/16ths (.3125) diameter by 1 to 1 3/8 long dowel pin (8mm will work if metric is all that is available). Spit on it and twist it into the 1/4 hole from the head end of the rubber plug. The further you insert it, the more it will expand the rubber plug. Stop when you get your desired fit. Mine were fine before, but inserting it about 1/2 inch tightened things up nicely.
Next, Ive had some questions about LW overflow plugs and or cooler (interchangeable). I plug my LW in the hot summer to keep my treated water from being lost to rough water and/or holeshot as well as coming off plane. Also, you may want the cold ice water to remain in your cooler.
Regular 'turn-tight' ($3 to $4 dollars ea) or 'snap-tite' ($7 to $8 ea) hull plugs can be adjusted to fit the LW/Cooler plug. (Probably cheaper than this at Wal-Mart)
Here is a pic of one in my LW.
Here is the plug next to the ones I made and use.
...and one of mine in the LW.
Personally I like to use the plain Nylotrol as they have no metal to bang around in where ever I have them stored. Nonetheless, here are a few easy options for you guys that have inquired about custom plugs.
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