I'm about to take on the challenge of putting a thru hull transducer in my 98 outlaw. Any tips or pointers. There should already be a flasher transducer in the back correct? I think it is under the jackplate assembly/pump in the back by the drain plug. What is the easiest way to take it out? What tools do I need? Just trying to get everything together to do the job right.
Modified by n10sivern at 9:17 AM 8/30/2009
Alot of guys just whack it with a hammer, if it leaves any just put a dremmel to it to get the rest of it out.
I've done it in my Outlaw. The old transducer was much smaller than the one I was installing, so I just put the new beside it, no problem. The key for me, was that I bought a hole cutting saw that had a removable centering bit. I got it at Home Depot. I just matched the diameter of the saw to that of the new transducer. I started the hole in the usual fashion but as soon as I got a good groove started, I removed the center bit and continued until I broke through the inner hull. I don't remember exactly, but the inner hull was about 1/4" thick. The foam layer a little thicker than the hull, maybe 3/8" and was easy to cut with the hole saw. As soon as I felt contact with the outer hull, I stopped. Most of the foam came out easily and the rest I cleaned out with a dremel. Then installed the transducer in the normal fashion. It works great.
Here's a link to the hole saw mandrel with the removable bit.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/...10053
Installing a transducer in the middle of the pad in the rear is not that difficult, you just need to be reasonably careful. As those above have said, drill, or grind thru the inner liner, and thru the soft foam between the liner and the outer hull. Sand or grind the outer hull just enough to make a flat surface for the transducer to set. Here's where I differ from most people on how this procedure should be done. Most will use either bondo (don't do it) silicon, (again, don't do it) or epoxy. For the above procedures the only one I would call ok would be epoxy. However, I had what I think is a better method, at least I have convinced myself it is better:
Once you have the hole clean and ready for the transducer, get you some polyester resin (you can get a quart at any Walmart or Lowes) and mix that with Baby Powder, till you have a paste about the same texture as thick gravy. Baby powder is a magneuism based product and has great strength properties. Add about 30% more catylist than is recommended for resin alone, as the baby powder will retard the curing process a bit. Pour the mixture into the clean hole until you have filled the hole about 1/2 inch deep. Press your transducer down into the paste, until you feel you have it within 1/8 inch or so of the outer hull. Fill the remainder of the hole around the transducer with the paste, and crown it up above the level of the inner hull until you have covered a bit of the inner hull itself. This will guarantee you have sealed the inner hull, and the foam between the inner hull and outer hull from being breached. The baby powder makes the bond stronger and less likely to crack than resin or epoxy alone. The reason I use polyster resin is that it is chemically the same as what the boat is made with and the cross link between old fiberglass and the putty paste you have made is stronger than with epoxy. Now, go to your kitchen and get some Saran Wrap. Wrap the top of the paste with the plastic wrap until it is completely sealed from the air. This will also allow you to mold the shape of the paste around the transducer and over the inner hull so that it looks neat and even without getting the resin all over your hands, as on some people it will burn a bit. Allow that to cure under the wrap for about 24 hours and pull the Saran Wrap off. You now have a guaranteed waterproof transducer installation that will last as long as the boat itself.
ben, that sounds like a great plan, but i have a question. if for some reason the transducer doesn't read correctly or needs to be replaced, how would you break the bond with the resin? i like your idea better, but i would be concerned about this. at least with the epoxy, the bond can be broken. i'm just the type of person that anything and everything will mess up on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n10sivern »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ben, that sounds like a great plan, but i have a question. if for some reason the transducer doesn't read correctly or needs to be replaced, how would you break the bond with the resin? i like your idea better, but i would be concerned about this. at least with the epoxy, the bond can be broken. i'm just the type of person that anything and everything will mess up on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use a Dremmel tool around the transducer to remove it if you should need to, but I doubt seriously you would ever need to. As long as the transducer is actually in contact with the outside hull, and is mounted as far too the rear of the pad as possible, it should be just fine. However, should it ever need to be replaced, the Dremmel tool with a 1/16" bit around the transducer will do the trick. Once you have the "ditch" around the transducer made, a small tap with a hammer will knock the transducer loose. I also sand the bottom of the transducer slighly with 80 grit paper, just enough to remove the shine. I think this makes the contact with the bottom a bit better.
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