Need help again for Rusty or anyone that has some input. 1994 Johnson 225 Venom that just will not idle properly. It acts like it's running way too rich and might need some adjusting to the air/fuel mixture. I also will need to decarb the motor, since I have no idea if this has been done. Help needed on Brand of decarb and some instructions on the air/fuel mixture.
Thanks to all for your knowledge
Get the decarb from your local Bomb dealer and follow the instructions on the can. I would do the decarb process first, then worry about making any carb adjustments.
Modified \'92 Procraft 170 Combo/\'97 Johnson 130<U></U>
Well guys I did the decarb thing and found that I have a lean sneeze at idle. I took her to the local mech and we played with it for 2hrs without fixing the problem. He suggested pulling the carbs and looking for build up in the carb. I was curious to know, if I spray cleaner into the valve body should it spray out of the jet only or into the center of the carb and the jet. Motor info is a 1995 Johnson Venom J225STLEOB.
Thanks gentlemen
Shooting carb cleaner won't do anything for you. Best thing to do is pull the carbs and rebuild them then set the low speed jets back to spec and try it from there. CM
If all it has is a lean spit, you should be able to correct that with out pulling the carbs...... rejet or adjust the low speed needles.
I tried adjusting the carbs with no success. It still wants to spit and cough a little.
Any suggestions.
The problem carb seems to be the #5 carb lowest carb on left if facing the engine.
Tourney this weekend and need to be able to git-r-done as soon as I can.
Check to make sure all 6 throttle plates are completely closed and seated, push on them with your finger. That is part of the "sync and link" adjustments. Use the red spray nozzle from a WD-40 can and put it in an Engine Tuner can and spray into the brass air bleed jet on the front of the carb. Look for any leaks around the side cover gasket. If so, install a new gasket and use "fender washers" under the screws for better sealing.
Make sure the thermostats are warming up both heads. If you can hold your fingers on the top of the cylinder heads for more than 3 seconds, your motor is running too cold.
If it still spits, then rebuild the carb making sure the brass idle pickup tube is completely clean and that the carb to throttle body oring is not leaking or "gorked".
Another common problem is the "blowing out" of the reed box gasket, as the sides of it are very thin. Most of the time you can see the gap when the carb is removed.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
Gentlemen, the motor purrs like a new one. I pulled the #5 carb and removed the bowl and found that the clip that holds the needle in place was in a bind. Put it back in place and the motor sounds great with no sneezing. A little dose of medicine and she's fixed.
Thanks for all of the help and knowledge, you guys are awesome.
Glad you got it fixed and Glad we could help.
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