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  1. #1
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    Mechanics questions

    Just had the pickup in for new rear brakes. Never heard a squeal from the brakes at all and then hit the brakes and the grinding starts. My son had the same issue on his truck. I've driven both prior to the brake issue and never heard a squeal at all. Do they not put the small metal piece on the brakes like they used to so that it would let you know when the pads were getting low?
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  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    Rear brakes tend to last a long time on a truck, and I don't believe I've ever had to replace a set on a truck. Are they drums or disks?

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    #3

    Re: Mechanics questions (CatFan)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by CatFan &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Rear brakes tend to last a long time on a truck, and I don't believe I've ever had to replace a set on a truck. Are they drums or disks?</td></tr></table>

    Discs. But this also happened on my sons front brakes. Mechanic said they no longer have the small metal part that causes the squeal when the brakes are getting thin.
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    #4

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    rear drum brakes typically do not have the metal squealers on them. Drums and shoes usually last quite a long time, i replaced mine at 165,000 miles just because, and they still looked pretty good, had maybe about 15000 miles left until they needed to be replaced. However rear disk brakes usually have the squealers on them, but even still they may not make a noise and just start grinding.

    What make and model truck?

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    #5

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    My experience has been the cheap / non-OEM pads have eliminated the little metal piece that pops up and squeals when they are worn. It saves them a few pennies.

    I buy cheap stuff for some things but for things that keep the truck going or stopping go OEM (Water pumps, alternators, clutches, brakes, etc)

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    #6

    Re: Mechanics questions (Solfood)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Solfood &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">rear drum brakes typically do not have the metal squealers on them. Drums and shoes usually last quite a long time, i replaced mine at 165,000 miles just because, and they still looked pretty good, had maybe about 15000 miles left until they needed to be replaced. However rear disk brakes usually have the squealers on them, but even still they may not make a noise and just start grinding.

    What make and model truck?</td></tr></table>

    Ford F150 and Expedition. Very damn irritating to not get any warning and then hear the grinding. Not to mention a little expensive.
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    #7

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    You are correct. A lot of pads are no longer coming equipt with them mostly because other people ignore it. you heard that right, Ignore it. not to mention more are going to wear indicators (lights on dash) but not many Domestics are doing that as of yet. There relying on the "Inspections" to notify you when brakes are getting low, and by then its too late as you already found out.

    Now as far as rears lasting any longer than fronts, depends on the vehicle. A lot of vehicles now are being Programed (ABS) to start braking in the rear for a split second before applying the fronts. No one will know this but in most of the newer 'Teves' systems I have seen they are doing that. European vehicles have been doing that for a long time now & typically you will go through 1-2 sets of rears before fronts compared to what it used to be.

    the reasoning behind this is simple, control. They have found out, even with traction control & anti-skid technology (yaw & feedback controls), that it is a lot safer for the rears to begin applying just before the fronts to allow the center of gravity to start squating rather than getting any "Roll" to the front. Typically you will feel a dip to the front on older vehicle's under heavy braking but I can tell you I notice a lot of newer vehicles anymore that squat more during braking than nose down. Hence allowing better control of the vehicle under Emergency braking and steering.


    Modified by R.D. at 8:09 AM 3/8/2012

  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    I check mine everytime I rotate the tires, and even compare side to side wear with my finger. No surprises that way.

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    #9

    Re: Mechanics questions (R.D.)

    Thanks Ryan. I was hoping you'd see this and reply since I know you are knowledgable in this area. Thanks to everyone for the replies.
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    #10
    My Passat actually has sensor wires coming out of the brake pads plugging into the wiring harness I assume it will light up a warning when they get thin, I am not looking forward to how much they will cost to replace.

  11. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #11

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    Brakes should be checked every rotation(6000 miles),,,,,,,,,,,

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

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    #12

    Re: (mhr650)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mhr650 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">My Passat actually has sensor wires coming out of the brake pads plugging into the wiring harness I assume it will light up a warning when they get thin, I am not looking forward to how much they will cost to replace.</td></tr></table>

    Almost $400 for my rear brakes with 2 new rotors and pads. Front brakes are getting close and they will have to have new rotors since I'm at 125k and they are wearing down.
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    #13

    Re: Mechanics questions (smalljawguy)

    before i got rid of my expedition i replaced the rear brakes and if i recall correctly they did not have the squealers on them. They just started to grind so it was time for new ones.

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    #14

    Re: (mhr650)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mhr650 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">My Passat actually has sensor wires coming out of the brake pads plugging into the wiring harness I assume it will light up a warning when they get thin, I am not looking forward to how much they will cost to replace.</td></tr></table>


    Correct, front & rear have Sensors in them.

    Depending what year & brake code I can tell you how much they will cost

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    #15

    Re: (smalljawguy)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by smalljawguy &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

    Almost $400 for my rear brakes with 2 new rotors and pads. Front brakes are getting close and they will have to have new rotors since I'm at 125k and they are wearing down.</td></tr></table>

    thats not bad milage wish. About right for Brakes now a days as long as you don't do China Crap.

    Here was a Debate in shop recently........Made in China or Mexico everyone said Mexico

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    #16

    Re: Mechanics questions (CatFan)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by CatFan &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I check mine everytime I rotate the tires, and even compare side to side wear with my finger. No surprises that way.</td></tr></table>+1 And some times I have had to tell the guy and the Boss to check them more that once. The last time I did mine I told the guy doing the rotate to check my rears for me as I felt that they would be close to needing replaced. I usually keep an eye on them when they are doing the work and when I did'nt see him even try to look at them I asked the Boss who I had already told also. He asked the Kid if he had checked them and he told him yep!! I then asked the Boss to take a look,,yep they were shot! Fortunatly not into the rotor yet though.

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    #17

    Re: Mechanics questions (siskiyoucrash)

    Hence why I stated that in my post. It comes down to Inspection at service intervals & not relying on the vehicle to "Tell you" when to change them anymore on some vehicles.

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    #18

    Re: Mechanics questions (R.D.)

    /\ Listen to what he says /\

    I rotate my own tires and always check brake wear. If you let a shop or tire dealer check them and you don't know them...beware. Some will try to sell you everything but the kitchen sink. If they tell you you need brakes, ask to see them yourself.

    Exanple; 1999, new set of BFG's being put on the Blazer. Guy comes to me and said you need rear axle seals. Oh really.....let me see. NOT. Those same seals are still in place.

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    #19

    Re: Mechanics questions (rednecktech)

    Funny, had a customer come to me one time and asked to Varify Brakes. I said "Varity what?". They had taken there car to Meineke and said she needed brakes. She had no problme with that but asked if she wanted the Cheap 1yr Warranty or the Lifetime Warranty ones. Of coarse she wanted the lifetime ones. So they got her a Quote & was going to be around $1000.00 Jsut for one axle I asked her what they were replacing, she said "Everything"........whats everything. She said they quoted her Pads, Rotors, Calipers and Hoses. But according to the "warranty" they had to replace all listed in order for it to be "Lifetime". Funny part was, they were using the EXACT same Brake pads in this repair

    Needless to say I did inspect the brakes. there was only about 2mm left on them. Caliper's were fine but rotors were within minimum discard. I put Pads & rotors on. Cleaned & lubed guides & contact areas & she was back on the road for less than half what Meineke wanted ot do

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    #20

    Re: Mechanics questions (CatFan)

    Gezzz CatFan is there anything you can't do? Electrical/Mechanical?
    You re every Father-In-Laws dream come true. A "Son" who won't need help

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