recalibrated oil pump lever after fouling plugs....WOW!

[BassManGuy]

What a difference a little adjustment will make! My engine was running like crap, smoking a lot, rough idle, poor acceleration, etc. I checked the plugs and they were all carboned up. I cleaned them the best I could and ordered some new plugs. Did some searching on BBC and got some good info about the oil pump lever needing to be recalibrated. I checked mine and it was way out of sync, definitely a bit rich. I ran the boat after cleaning the plugs before the new ones came in and it still had loss of power. New plugs put in, adjusted lever, and man it is like night and day difference. Recommend taking a look at the lever. I set mine so that the lever was not touching stopper, but with slightly enough gap for daylight to be seen. Manual recommends touching stopper, but I wasn't comfortable with that. Thanks for all the help to everyone who helped me on my other post about fouled plugs

[LegendMan]

I don’t think I would calibrate the linkage by opposing the recommended setting from Yamaha. Leaning it out is good for the short term…….the very short term. When set to factory you should not foul plugs. If the pump is properly set and your fouling plugs you need to look elsewhere for the problem.

[BassManGuy]

I am not understanding you. How I set mine is actually set to be very slightly richer than factory settings due to the slight but of daylight between the stopper and lever, and not against the stopper as factory says.. Initially, it was way to rich with a much larger gap between lever and stopper which is why I was fouling plugs due to the extra oil being pumped. I adjusted that gap to half of what it was, but not putting the lever touching the stopper. I left a slight gap, therefore I am not leaning it out as much as factory recommendations. It was not set to factory to begin with which is why the fouled plugs. I am not opposing any recommended setting from Yamaha. A certified master Yamaha mechanic is who told me to leave just a slight bit of daylight between the stopper and lever. I would rather be on the slightly richer side, not extreme as it was set when I was fouling plugs, but slightly more richer than what factory states to set it at. If needed, I add a bit more ring free in a safe dosage. Lean conditions will burn up a piston quick, I had it happen on a different engine.

[Texas Larry]

What engine do you have?

[BassManGuy]

I have a 2002 Yamaha 200 vmax hpdi.

[Swissboy]

where is that adjustment screw?
I remember seeing some pics of it on a ealier post, but can't seem to find it.
Thanks.

[Texas Larry]

Not sure about your engine, but the series 1 engines call for a less than .02 inch gap with the linkage disconnected, then with the rod connected, the other side should touch the pin at WOT.

[BassManGuy]

I am not following. Once I disconnected the linkage rod, the lever is free to move. I had to adjust the plastic on the linkage rod by turning it to decrease the gap once it is reconnected on the lever. Once connected again the gap was decreased due to the adjustment. I am not sure what you mean with the gap with rod linkage disconnected compared to connected.

[Texas Larry]

Here's what the book says:




You did what it says. It's to insure that at WOT the other side of the oil pump lever contacts the stop - i.e. the oil pump is also wide open that is critical to insure you get max oil at WOT. Sorry I wasn't very clear, and I haven't been able to copy the pictures - OK, figured it out here's the illustrations You might have to zoom in some to read.




Modified by Texas Larry at 1:37 PM 5/20/2010

[Swissboy]

Thanks Texas Larry for posting that picture, it helped me out a lot with solving that issue. I recently bought a 2005 Triton TR X20 with a Yamaha 225 HPDI. I had the oil pump recall taken care of and the mechanic told me he adjusted the setting a little rich. 20 gal of gas and 2 gal of oil later I knew something was not right.
He won't see my boat in his shop again.....