Could use your thoughts on this rebuild. It is my first one.

[AJJMH]

Hello,

I recently purchased a 1970 Caravelle CX173. I realize this is not the Caravelle boat forum but there is not one. I am focusing on bass fishing with this boat so please help me and provide me some great advise or make comments that might seem obvious to some because this is a new thing to me. So here goes.

I got this 1970 Caravelle ski and fish but the floor and transom are way beyond rotten. So I have almost ripped out the entire floor and transom, just a small amount left to cut out. Then I need to grind it down as it appears when the fiberglass was put on it they sprayed it on and it is not laying down well at all. My thought is I want it to be nice and smooth afterwards so I am thinking of putting on the bilge paint and gel coat or what ever the stuff is called that I see people paint on the inside of their boats. I like the neat look.

My first question is how much should I grind off? Will it be obvious like it was when I was taking out the wood transom and getting to the outer skin of the boat?

I am thinking of using polyester resin with 1708, 1.5 oz CSM and some Woven Roving to fiberglass the boat back in. I am planning on using PL Construction glue to hold the stringers and ribs in place and then glass over them. I know I need to put a good coat of resin on the wood to seal it before doing anything. While fiber glassing in the wood I have to go out from each board/joint by 6" with the 1708 and use 2 coats of fabric. Then I will use 2 coats of the CSM to glass in the rest of the bottom and sides of the boat. Oh, I think I will be using 1708 on the entire transom as I need it strong although I only have a 65 hp motor on it.

First really big question. I think the rot in this boat started because water got under the floor and just sat there. Over time the wood rotted and continued to rot until there was little wood left. If the 3 stringers go almost the entire length of the boat, and the 4 rows of ribs also go throughout the boat, how is any water suppose to escape from under the floor? Even if I glass in the floor, there will still be condensation and therefore water so do I need to leave a path to guide it to the bilge area? The previous floor was so rotten I could not tell if there was a clear path like that from the front of the boat to the back. My other concern is the center stringer sits at the very lowest point in the boat. Would it be better to leave the lowest channel for water to flow to the bilge area and put 2 stringers just off center for the support?

Perhaps I am really over thinking the water flow but on the off chance that I keep this boat for another 20 + years, I would like my current efforts to still be good.

Thank you all for any and all input you have. This is my first boat and first rebuild. My knowledge so far has all come from Youtube, various retail sights how to articles and other info I have read on the Internet. Please look at the boat as it was before I started. Yes, the floor was about to fall thru right into the lake with the gators. Hopefully when I am finished it will be in much better shape. Thanks again for your input.

AJ

[ShawnD]

#1 Don't use Polyester resin, use epoxy. West system, they also have books to help you out.
#2 Cut out the entire area, so that when you put in your new pieces, be it the transom or stringer you will will be surrounding it with new glass and the new glass will be tied to the floor/sides.
#3 water needs to flow, not only should there be a way for the water to get to the bilge area but the floor should have drain for the water to drop underneath the floor ( which will also act like a vent.)
#4 Research, watch how every one else are doing it.

[AJJMH]

Shawn, Thanks for the information. Where you talk in #3 about a drain where water can drop underneath the floor, you are talking about a drain in the floor correct? That makes sense. One other question, in the middle picture above (which is a picture of the old bilge area looking from stern to bow) there is a wide cavity there. The wood in this boat was pretty rotten and even missing in a lot of places. This cavity was filled with remnants of rotten wood but did not appear to have had wood in it as just on the other side of the glassed area is where it appeared the 2x4 appeared and sat on the 2" side of the board. Was that cavity just an area to guide water or do you think it had wood at one time like a 2x12 laying flat? The only wood in the boat was 2 x 4s so I thought this area was just an empty cavity build for stability and water to pass through. Does this sound correct?

Oh, one other thing I wanted to ask about was design. I would like to put a live well in here somewhere. I am thinking of putting a full bench style seat in front of the bilge area that acts as storage/livewell and can fold forward to allow access to the bilge area. Any thoughts on that idea?


Thanks. AJ

[ShawnD]

I can't answer that uestion because I would need better pictures to really understand the layout. You have to keep in mind that your boat is from the 70s therefore someone might have "fixed it" before you...
As for the live well/ seat idea, that's a good idea, Some princecraft boat here in canada are build so that the entire seat flips forward and creates a floor on the back part.
You're already looking at a lot of work, start with the structure and make sure there are no air bubbles in you fiberglass.
Like I said read up on rebuilds look at what people are doing, you can find my thread and look at it too, ( its not complete ) but the structural part is.
I'm working on the body and I have another boat I'm getting ready for Bass season approaching..

Good luck and don't cut corners!

[AJJMH]

That is my goal is to start fishing some tournaments. I can't wait. Thanks, AJ.

[G3 Trent]

FriscoJarretts - YouTube

He has videos of his complete redo of his SeaRay. Go to those videos and he has video of how he redid stringers, stansom and floor. You should be able to find the info you are looking for.

[AJJMH]

Trent, Funny you mention his videos. That is what started this whole thing off as a DIY project. I saw his videos and they are awesome. Not even the manufacturers or distributors make videos that well but they should take some lessons from him. I am definitely thinking of setting up a video to show my "entire" rebuild and just let it run. Of course I can edit out small areas if they are boring or not much is happening. It will be a good experience for me and who knows when I am ready to upgrade perhaps I will look for a bass boat that needs a little facelift and do it as a project. I think the hardest part for me now is I just want to be on the water some days. Here it is May and I am starting the project so I am eager to do it and get it over with, not make it a summer project.

Thanks, AJ

[AJJMH]

Ok so I am going to ask, I know most people have jumped on the Epoxy band wagon, and if this were the bottom of the boat on the outside I would do it. However after talking with the local fiberglass people they still recommend Polyester for stringers and transom. Now, I have been looking and this stuff is not cheap. I did get a great deal at Home Depot but I hear that is the bottom of the bucket. Has anyone ever experienced or known of anyone who used 3M Polyester Resin and what if anything came of it? Any issues with 3M resin? Are there any places near Jackson, MS that I can drive to and save some of the charges for shipping and Haz Mat fees? I am looking at a short trip to New Orleans in the next few weeks anyhow, what about getting polyester resin from a Marine or is that worse in pricing? Thoughts????

What places have you used to get resin?

[AJJMH]

Ok, here is a little better idea of where I am now. Most of the old wood is cleared out, still a little near front but that will come out tomorrow. This boat use to have pockets on the side which is what the one piece of wood is on the starboard side which still needs cut out. I am wondering if those should go back in or not, would leaving them out really give me room for anything better like rod storage? Also still looking for the supplies, mostly the resin and where to get it. I would really like to get it from somewhere I can drive and pick up to save on the hefty shipping charges. I will need between 15 and 20 gallons. What are your thoughts on any part of this project (material, where to buy it, any personal or second hand knowledge of products that were good or to stay away from, design, etc)? Really appreciate all the help and advice I can get.

[AJJMH]

OK, OK I am done resisting and now see the need for Epoxy Resin. I am looking into 2 different ones for cost and quality. West Systems and FGCI. Anyone know anything about either of them?

[ShawnD]

West system, buy the pumps it'll be that much easier! The pump deliver the accurate amount and as a bonus you can have someone help you without fear of your mix not being accurate. BIG TIME SAVER!!!!!

[AJJMH]

Next question, when I was going polyester I was going to use a 1.5 oz CSM and 1708 as well as Woven Roving. I have read that CSM is not recommended for Epoxy but I am not reading what is, any knowledge on this?

Can I just use Fiberglass cloth hexcel 1.5 ounce 50" wide ? Can I also use the 1708 with this?

[ShawnD]

I know you can use 1708 but I'm not sure about that other stuff, call the company for a quick yes/no.

[ep72]

You can do what you want, I just finished a transom redo using 1.5 csm, 1708, and the 435 US composites polyester resin. Its hella strong. IMO no worries using poly resins. US Composites will have every supply you may need.