i am not a pro and if you can point things out i dont mind.i got the Nikon 55-200 and love it.this picture is with me sitting at press box to the other side.
i am not a pro and if you can point things out i dont mind.i got the Nikon 55-200 and love it.this picture is with me sitting at press box to the other side.
Glad to hear your happy with the new glass.
Can you post the exif information with the pics? (ie: shutter speed, aperture, iso, camera body (d40 if I remember correctly) shooting mode, etc....
I might be able to give you a few tips on eliminating the motion blur if you can post that info....
first pic. second and third the same but exposure time is 1/125sec.
Nikon D60
F-stop-f/5.6
exposure time-1/320sec
ISO speed ISO400
exposure bias- 0 step
focal length- 200mm
max aperture- 5
Copy.
What mode and AF where you shooting in?
For sports, I recommend using shutter priority starting with around 1/500 of a second and going all the way up too 1/800 or even 1/1000 for the fast little bastards.
The 55-200mm will handle those shutter speeds in good daylight, but will likely struggle as darkness falls, resulting in under exposed images.
To combat that, try turning off your auto ISO and manually setting it to 800. That's going to add a little bit of noise/grain to your images, but that's better than motion blur, and can mostly be removed via post-processing if you wish to go that route. Motion blur cannot be corrected in pp.
Now with your ISO manually set at 800, set your exposure compensation to +.3 which will help combat underexposure. Them turn your shooting mode dial to Shutter Priority and then use your main command dial to select 1/800, and take a couple test shots.
If your initial test shots still come out too dark, try backing down the ss 1 stop (which I believe is 1/620, but don't hold me to that), then take a couple more. If it's still to dark, back it down again (1/500) and keep repeating until you find the exposure acceptable. Keep in mind that even the most basic photo editing software programs at least have brightness/contrast settings, so if your images are still a hair on the dark side, you can adjust it out.
was in auto mode and AF closest subject or the AF-A AUTO SERVO AF
the glass came with a hood?that screws on the end,what does it do,cant find anything on it.
<br /><br />
Modified by bugman at 9:37 PM 9/21/2010
Modified by bugman at 9:38 PM 9/21/2010
Always shoot in AFC with a moving subject.
Always use your lens hood as well, it helps with metering, as well as blocking out any stray light that could cause flare.....
Like Sneezy said ... once darkness starts to kick in you'll be limited by your glass. F5.6 won't cut the mustard but, bumping your ISO (not sure what a D60 can go up to and still yield results with minimum grain) but if you can hit ISO1600 once the sun starts to set ... keep that shutter speed at a minimum of 1/500th.
I'm not much of a landscape photographer but, shooting sports is where I earn my bread and butter.
Rich
Reply With Quote