I have a Z20 with a 10" hydo jack plate and a 225 etec ho. At most speeds over 60 there is a lot of steering torque, it seem like I don't get much help from my hydo steering. Is this normal???
Thanks
I have a Z20 with a 10" hydo jack plate and a 225 etec ho. At most speeds over 60 there is a lot of steering torque, it seem like I don't get much help from my hydo steering. Is this normal???
Thanks
sounds like your plate is off, if you find the right plate height , your torque will improve greatly
I agree, your hull is getting to much drag, need to raise your jack plate. whats your water pressure at, your rpms and speed. what size of prop are you running.
Butch I have the same boat without the hyd. jack but a 10" slidemaster and also have steering torque. It goes away about three quarters trim but above that it comes back. Does your E-Tec have a torque tab on motor, mine doesnt and i also was wondering if it was left out by mistake. Dont know if this will help any but other three motors i had had it. Let me know. Everybody says you dont need one if you are not getting any pull to one side or the other. Thanks.
The HO E-Tec's have a torque tab molded in the skeg, look at it from the back and you will see it.
RR...Yes, mine does have a torque tab, but I don't know how to adjust it...Help Rusty!!! The motor doesn't pull either way, but you better eat your Wheaties to turn the thing!
If you guys are running raker's on your boats there's another possibility. Take them to a good prop man and have them blueprinted and balanced! Had the same problem with an 05 225 HODI. Getting the prop worked straightened almost all of the torque issues and got me more top end!
I have a 05 225HO on a 520 and I have no torque. Having the motor to high will
put torque on the wheel. I know when I was setting up my old Skeeters and
Basscats I would adjust them up until I felt torque in the wheel and then I would
start working my way down until the torque went away, but always kept an eye on my water pressure. Some people think higher is better, but if you get to high
you will loose performance, water pressure, and get torque in the wheel. Just
my two cents and I would try dropping my motor some before I paid 300.00
to 500.00 to have my prop worked.
I agree MOCAT.
There is no tab that hangs down, its the skeg, on one side it is thicker and looks like an airplane wing.
It cost me $175 to have my 28 raker blueprinted and cupped. The engine height is the best place to start, but that $175 was a good investment I thought. Picked up 300 rpm's and another 2-2.5 mph. It's amazing how one ear being slightly out of balance can cause such torque! John's Hot Props in Ozark, MO did an excellent job on my prop!
One thing to keep in mind, if you work a BRP prop and it has a problem, it's yours and any problem it may have caused.
No matter where I adjust the jack plate (up or down), it still requires a lot of strength to turn the wheel...I have had hydro steering on my last boat (04 519 with 200 ho) and that boat drove like a car, compared to this. Now even at 4500 rpms it's tough to turn the wheel!!
Any suggestions Rusty?? or whoever???
Thanks again
Is it hard to turn in both directions?
NO, turning left is a lot easier than to the right.
What prop are you running?
Sounds as you have alot of prop slip.
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