Replacing UFP Axle - Advise

[MikeW07]

I had a wheel bearing go bad so I went to just swap both hubs with new bearings etc - 6 year old trailer - the spindle on the bearing out side looks fine from the top but the bottom is trashed - looks like swiss cheese - new bearings won't go on.

So headed for new axle - has anyone swapped one of these - looks fairly simple except that the brake line is held to the axle by spot welded clips and there's a three way that takes the main brake line and sends it to both hugs that's also spot welded to the axle.

Does a new axle come with this brake line and three way alread on the axle?

Thanks

[21XDC]

I replaced my UFP axle as the torsion rubber failed. It's been a while. I think I took the old brake lines off and screwed them to the new axle on some tabs that were there.

[bigbob]

Replaced my UFP torsion axle 2 years ago. Took the brake lines off and all of the brake hardware off of the old axle. Then took the old axle off( I put a floor jack in the center of the axle then removed the bolts) Lined up the new axle with the floor jack and put the new axle in. Wasn't too hard to do by myself.

[MikeW07]

When you put the brake lines back on how did you secure the one that runs across axle to the brake hubs. Mine has clips and a three way connector but they are all spot welded to the axle. I was thinking of just using zip ties to hold it to the new one.

[JavRenegade20]

I didnt replace my axle but I replaced all the brakes lines with thermo cable lines.. I ended up going to the Home depot and bought the heavy(a$$)duty zip ties. The cables will probably break before the zip does.. I used five across the axle(flex thermo cables). If you have the metal tubing 2 or 3 would probably work fine...

[bigbob]

I used zip ties as well.

[DABS]

Mike, you should have your new axle by now. Let us know how you did and what if there were any problems.

[MikeW07]

working on putting it on right now - waiting for ups to delivery the last little parts.

Old axle came off pretty easy. Three of the clips that hold the brake line on the axle were just fold over so a screw driver pryed them up. Had to cut the three way valve bracket off with an angle grinder. Everthing else came off easy but there is a little rubber boot in each brake caliper that the pivot pin rides on. One pretty much gone (thats the part I'm waiting on). One of the big u-bolts that mount the axle to the spring must have been stripped at the factory so had to chase down new bracket. New axle was 1/4" longer at every measurement but fit in the springs perfect so the old one may have been sprung a little. Should be back rolling in a few hours if ups will cooperate. Would like to have a test run before tounament on sunday with a 1.5 hour drive both ways but don't see anything that would keep it from working fine.


The trailer is a 2004 so if your gonna change one I would order, axle, new calipers, brake pads, at least one new u-bolt (they are hard to find), at least one extra set of bearings and seals, the two boots in the caliper pivot pins. I also bought a bearing, seal driver set that was worth its weight in gold - good idea for $20.

[DABS]

torque the u-bolts to 40 ft lbs.

[MikeW07]

Run to lake was successful - hubs barely warm after 1.5 hours at 60-65 mph. One other note for anyone doing this. The parts book shows the auto brake pads that fit the trailer but finding organic pads in stock was very difficult but finally found them at Pep Boys but since I was ordering parts from UFP anyway had them send me brake pads also. I put both on and the auto parts ones drug pretty noticably so I checked the UFP ones and they were about an 1/8" thinner and didn't drag at all. May not have been an issue but might be better to order them from UFP.