UFP A60 Rebuild

[HydraSport205]

I had alot of play in my A60 actuator, called up Len and what a great help. Here is what I found, I have a leak somewhere in my lines, my shock absorber was completely toast. I am fixing to order parts but had some questions:
1. Is there a way that I can test the master cylindar to verify that it is functional?
2. Would it be recommended to replace the front and rear rollers?
3. I plan to replace both Roller Pins, the front one particularly had some grooves worn in it (I had to beat it out with a hammer to remove the inner member)
The boot on the pushrod into the master cylindar looks good, no visible tears/leaks.
4. Do these use a standard break lining connector size? In other words can I go to an autoparts store and buy the correct fittings to repair the lines once I find the leak? I realize that I could have a bad wheel cylindar, just thinking ahead. This couldnt be a worse time for a break down but I want to fix it right. Any insight would be great, thanks as always!

[HydraSport205]

Lyn,
I have decided to rebuild my trailer brakes complete. I removed one of the drums this evening and the wheel cylindar was completely trashed. My initial question is what rear seal I need. The drum is made by UFP and has HD-1977-10 stamped in it. I looked online and there are a slew of different ones, I want to make sure that I order the correct one.

[Jig A Low]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HydraSport205 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lyn,
I have decided to rebuild my trailer brakes complete. I removed one of the drums this evening and the wheel cylindar was completely trashed. My initial question is what rear seal I need. The drum is made by UFP and has HD-1977-10 stamped in it. I looked online and there are a slew of different ones, I want to make sure that I order the correct one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have to rebuild the brakes on both sides, I would change to disk brakes while your at it. I noticed a huge change in mine after swapping to disks.

[Toypuller]

Master Cylinder check:

Behind the reset button on the lower side of the A-60 is a small hole. Through this hole you can reach the pushrod for the master cylinder with a flat blade screw driver.

Pull the fill cap off the master cylinder so you can see the fluid reserve, depress the reset switch and put the screwdriver up through the hole to the tip of the push rod. Using the screwdriver as a lever, push the rod towards the back of the trailer approx 1/2 to 1 inch. If the master cylinder is functioning you will see the fluid in the resevoir swirl.

The brake fitting are stanadard sizes. I have hoses that run from the rear axle to the caliper {I have discs} that were difficult to find, but did finally get a match from an auto parts store that were close enough.


When I started to replace mine I found that for the amount of money I was going to spend on parts it was easier to just replace the whole actuator. I think at that time {3 years ago?} the actuator was around $160.00. The box came, install was super easy, bled the brakes and was done with it. Plus I have spare parts from the old one on hand. If you order one make sure it has the solonoid included {some don't}

http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A-60...e.pdf

Look on page 7&8 of the PDF for a diagram on how to test the MC.

[Lyn O. Dyer]

what year is your trailer?...if it was built before 9/02, the seal would be 2.33x1.68, if it's after 9/02 the seal wuold be 2.56x1.68. I would just replace the complete backing plates and turn the drums...

[HydraSport205]

It is a 97. Thanks for the info guys, I priced just replacing the whole actuator, price without shipping $189 about the cheapest I could find. I dont need that much, it appears that my master cyl is fine, a couple new roller pins, a couple of rollers, shock absorber and new snaprings/washers; around $65 for all.
Lyn, For the backing plate, I thought about that as well seems economical for the shoes, wheel cyl and all pre-assembled. I found some online for around $58 per side plus shipping. I might snap some pics throughout the process and document the fun. Thanks again for everyones input.

[HydraSport205]

I placed an order with a local trailer shop for new backing plates for both sides. I am ordering my UFP parts (acutator parts and new inner wheel bearing seal) from Pacific Trailers online, best price. Now I just need to re-do my brake lines, headed to the auto parts store today to get new lines. When I am done I will have pretty much a new brake system complete. Thanks again for all the help from everyone, Lyn you are the man my friend!

[moose288]

when ur actuator is bottoming out does that mean the shock absorber is gone...cause when i hit my brakes there is no shock at all to it.and i cant tell my brakes are working at all

[Lyn O. Dyer]

call me and I will tell you how to test it ..

[HydraSport205]

Well, I got the actuator parts and installed, new backing plates, all new brake lines, new seals/bearings. Went to prime MC and bleed last night...no dice. I did test the MC as instructed, Thanks for the tip, there is some movement of the fluid in the reservoir however it is slight. When I was re-assembling the inner member, when I compressed the MC pushrod, fluid squirted out however now the MC is not pumping hardly at all. I had to stroke the pushrod 20+ times to get 2 bubbles to come out and I dont feel like it ever pushed any fluid. I am assuming that I am not going to have to replace the MC...I have learned alot doing this myself but talk about aggrevation. Actually the UFP stuff is pretty easy it is the brake lines that are a major PITA.

[Lyn O. Dyer]

if you get bubbles, the master cylinder is not primed...

[HydraSport205]

Thanks Lyn and everyone else for the info. The job is complete; I took it out for a test run last night and all I can say is that it is awesome to have working brakes again. It is even more awesome to do it yourself and save a butt-load of cash. Thanks again.