2002 225 Ficht Ignition switch wiring

[ejeedonnelly@aol.com]

History: I have a 2002 225 Ficht (Model number E225FPLSN) that got a new oil pump and oil sending unit a month ago that has been running fine since. The "No oil" light was coming on and shutting me down to low RPM's. A qulaified dealer did the repairs. I've had it out for 6 or 7 tournaments since and up until two days ago it was running great.

The day before yesterday it would not start intermittently. After I turned the key a few times it eventually started. The last few times I had to take off the cowling and hit my starter with a screw driver handle and it would start. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all. Only the sound of a pump running or something like that when I turned the key. We crossed over the starter solenoid with a screw driver and it cranked right over. We thought we had the problem solved. Got a new solenoid and put it in today and it cranked over two times fine. The third time the starter motor wouldn't shut off! I had to turn off the juice from the battery. I thought maybe I got a bad solenoid or the incorrect kind because it was definitley bad. We had continuity from pole to pole until we banged it agaisnt a block of wood. Then it didn't have continuity. Took solenoid back to NAPA and got an OMC "marine" solenoid. Put that one in and it cranked right over one time. With the second solenoid the engine started but wouldn't shut off when I turned off the ignition?! Hmm...I thought I could have a bad ignition switch? I took the switch out and didn't write down which wires I took off each of the six poles. (dummy!)

Questions:

1- Do you think it is my solenoid? I got the new solenoid(s) at NAPA...not absolutely sure it's the right one still.

2- Any idea how to put the six wires back on the ignition switch? Six poles on the back of the switch are marked beginning at 12:00 = B, 3:00 = M, 5:00 = S, 7:00 = A, 10:00 = M with C next to the center pole. I have black/white, black/yellow, purple, purple/white, red/yellow and red wires that need to be connected to the poles on the back of the switch.

3- Why am I blowing the 10 amp fuse for the tilt/trim when we're trying different ways to hook the ignition switch back up?

Sorry for the long post...any help appreciated.

Thanks,
Ed

[Danrude]

Google continuous wave ignition switch and you should find what you need. The problem sounds like it might be your starter bendix. As for the solenoid the start assist works off one of the posts so you should get an exact replacement from
BRP.


1

[SEAHORSE]

Ignition switch wiring:

http://continuouswave.com/whal....html

Later model switches use bullet terminals on the wiring harness but the operation, the color scheme and the letter designations are the same

[ejeedonnelly@aol.com]

Thanks guys. Huge help. I hooked up the wires the way it says to and I get the warning lights and beep I normally get when starting the motor but nothing is happening otherwise. I have 13.4 volts to the ignition switch when i put the leads in the red plug and one of the black blugs. I can still get it to turn over with a screw driver.

Could it be anything else but the switch? How would I trouble shoot the bendix?

Thanks,
Ed

[Danrude]

It could be a bad neutral safety switch, bad connection or broken wire!Trace the voltage from the switch to the solenoid with the key in the start position to make sure voltage is being supplied to the solenoid. Sounds like the bendix is ok.

[ejeedonnelly@aol.com]

I got a new switch today and it still doesn't work so I jumped the yellow and red wire from the switch to the yellow and red wire in the motor to try and bypass the neutral safety. Still nothing.... I'm out of ideas.

Ed

[ChampioNman]

Does the starter not engage? Or does it engage and the motor will not shut off once it does engage and start?

[SEAHORSE]

Don't forget that you have 2 starter solenoids, one is the small cube that looks like a trim relay (its called a delay relay) back near the upper port side of your EMM. It has the yellow wires on the bottom.

You first have to check for voltage at the key switch yellow/red wire while the switch is held in the start postion, then check for voltage coming out of the neutra safety switch inside the control box, then for voltage at the delay relay, then up to the larger solenoid.

The EMM completes the ground circuit on the delay relay, get a wiring diagram, as that could also keep things from working. Also check for the ground wires from the main starter solenoid base to the engine block.