2000 Ficht Ram 225 knocking/tapping at idle

[abianca99]

Engine: 2000 Ficht Ram 225
Model #: E225FPLSSH
Serial #: G 04879785
Boat: 2002 Triton Tr21

My father and I were out on his boat yesterday. This engine has treated him well since he bought it new. He treats all of his equipment very well (not very hard on things). He also runs a stabil additive to fight against ethanol. It was recently tuned up towards the end of last season. The engine has only been out on the water a few times since then. It seemed to be running great. The only thing I noticed since then was the starting took a little longer then it usd to. Maybe one or two cranks more at most. Not a big deal, but noticeable. The engine seemed to run fine most of the day yesterday. He started the engine to head back to the marina. Instanly it started to knock/tap??? at idle. It was pretty windy and was hard to listen real good but was definately noticeable. We ran about 1 mile back to the marina. When we were running back the motor ran fine. Rpm's were good, as well as speed. Sounded good. Came off plane to idle speed...motor sounded good. About 5 seconds later, the engine sputtered some, shook a little and then started knocking again. Not real loud, but noticeable. Put the boat on the trailer fine and didn't seem to be lacking much power. If at all. I have little experence with outboards, but do work on other engines regularly. I planned on starting by looking at the fuel system, and spark plugs. I have also been reading about decarbing these engines? Not sure exactly the best way to go about that yet. Any help or suggestions to help me trouble shoot this would be greatly apprecated.

Thanks,
Aaron

[ChampioNman]

Best bet would be to take a compression test. Gap and index the plugs at .028 tight. If you are going to decarb leave the old plugs in for this process and the next mornings start up. Once all the junk is out then install the new plugs. To get any deeper you will need a shop manual, laptop computer, serial cable and diagnostic software.

[abianca99]

I have read multiple ways of decarbing the motor. Is there a "best" way, or is it personal preference? I noticed you said gap the spark plugs to .028. Is there a reason for it being tighter than the .030 that the motor has labeled? I have been trying to find someone close to us that is willing to work on ficht's but they don't get a warm welcome around here. Is there anyone around the DE/MD that is a good mechanic or someone who has the software to diagnose this engine? It is frustrating to find that no one around us even wants to talk about ficht outboards in a positive way.

One mechanic I talked to today used to work on ficht's. He immediately said it is a common problem with that motor and happens all the time. First thing he said was it is the wrist pin going out. He said the motor is about to blow up. He said buy a new motor or it would cost 6-7K to fix the problem. He immediately dismissed any other issues as a possibility to the problem. Not saying he is wrong, but is attitude was a huge turn off. It seems like he was trying to sell a new Yamaha.

[ChampioNman]

Barnacle Bills is a great dealer up in your area. Check the E-tec owners boards. Yes the .028 gap helps with plug life if you do a lot of idling. A wrist pin? Not likely locating pin on a piston yes.

[abianca99]

I have a plan of action. I put a new water/fuel separator on today. My father picked up spark plugs today. And I found where he can get a can of evinrude tuner close to home. I will pick up a shop manual as well. I am going to disconnect the fuel line and use the primer ball to pump some fuel into a clear container. I am going to look to see if there is any separation in it or debris. I was then going to decarb the engine. Not 100% sure which way I am going to do it, but have a good idea. Then I am going to change and index the spark plugs. If that doesn't change anything for the better. I plan on doing a compression test. In the mean time I am going to try to find someone with diagnostic software close by.

Couple questions. Is there ny other fuel filters that I should change? As far as shop manuals. Is the aftermarket shop manual from Seloc the one I should get or is the factory evinrude shop manual worth the extra price? For the compression test. Is there a specific compression tester for these engines or would any work? The only one I have is setup for diesel engines.

You are saying that it could be a worn locator pin. Is this a common problem with these engines? Is there any way I can try to find out if that IS the problem? What kind of engine repair work would need to happen to fix the it? With that kind of repair, what will my father be looking at a far as cost to fix it? Or is "replace" a better option at that point?

I do most of my work on diesel engines so please excuse the abundance of questions. I am just trying to get my head wrapped around this engine so I have an idea of what is going on with it.

Thanks again for all your input and any future help anyone has.

Thanks you,
Aaron

[bobbyhamrickdalton]

If these things you are going to do have no effect I guess I dont have to telkl you to shut it off. If you can save the block you save some cash on the rebuild. The pin is what Ive been told is common failure. I have a FICHT 200 that blew earlier this year.

[bobbyhamrickdalton]

http://2strokeonly.com/

This site I found interesting. Sounds like this cat knows whats up. Maybe a good source?

[Bassmeister]

I would do compression test first, and the factory manual is the best.

[SEAHORSE]

Don't overlook the fact that a knocking noise can also come from a gearcase problem.

[abianca99]

I agree. A compression test should be done sooner then later. What range of pressure is acceptable on these engines? 100-125?? I am used to seeing in the 400 range with diesels. Good point seahorse. I had not even thought of a gearcase issue being the problem. Thanks again guys for the input. I will be heading over to my fathers house today to see if I can get this figured out.

[ChampioNman]

That should be in the ball park ~110-125. Make sure they are within 15% of each other. You don't want one a 80 and all others are 115.
+1 on the LU too.

[Ranger391v]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by bobbyhamrickdalton &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">http://2strokeonly.com

This site I found interesting. </td></tr></table>

Yea, ChampionmaN just realized he no longer needs his 'little BLUE friend' after looking at the 'performance' pictures

[abianca99]

I looked up Barnacle Bill's. He looks to be about an hour and a half from me. Is his shop worth the ride to get good service?

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by bobbyhamrickdalton &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">http://2strokeonly.com/

This site I found interesting. Sounds like this cat knows whats up. Maybe a good source?</td></tr></table>

The guy only does carb motors. Can't hop up a DFI.

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Ranger391v &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

Yea, ChampionmaN just realized he no longer needs his 'little BLUE friend' after looking at the 'performance' pictures

</td></tr></table>

We don't do hop up's here.

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by abianca99 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I looked up Barnacle Bill's. He looks to be about an hour and a half from me. Is his shop worth the ride to get good service? </td></tr></table>

Yes. Check out http://www.etecownersgroup.com

[abianca99]

Thanks for the link. I almost forgot. Is there certain things I should be looking/listening for when I look at the lower unit? I also noticed on ebay that there were a few people selling the diagnostic software for these engines for a really cheap price. It seems like a good thing at first glance, but I noticed they had some negative responses about the software being bootleg and not providing all the functions. Some say great service. Those negatives make me think scam though. Would a dealership be the best place to buy the software or is there any sponsors here that sell it as well? I looked a my fathers last receipt and the mechanic charged $300 just to hook up and diagnose the engine. It seems that getting the software would pay for its self the first time you it.

[nola 521dvx]

Simplest check - if the noise goes away in neutral problem is likely the gearcase.

[abianca99]

Just took a compression test and all was not well. If you look at the rear of the engine top to bottom, left to right. 1-3-5 on the left and 2-4-6 on right. 1 being top left and 2 being top right. Thats what a mechanic told me today when I asked how they are numbered looking at the rear of the engine from the rear.

Cylinder 1: 75 psi
Cylinder 2: 126 psi
Cylinder 3: 126 psi
Cylinder 4: 125 psi
Cylinder 5: 126 psi
Cylinder 6: 124 psi

So with that being said it looks to me like some rebuilding needs to take place. I am not going to decarbon or change the spark plugs at this point in time now. Any input you guys have about what could be causing the compression loss on these engines?

Thanks,
Aaron

[ChampioNman]

Sorry for the bad news. 2,4,6 are on the port side and 1,3,5 are starboard side facing the rear of the motor. Pull the injectors and the port head off and see how bad it is. Maybe able to get away with a hone job and new rings. Worse case bore it .030 over and OS piston ring set. All the others look good but I would hone them and re-ring.