stator/rectifier/tach/ wiring question

[delee36]

okay...start ing to look in depth at my tach/ wiring problem...

J150TLCTE

Stator check:
1. resistance across yellow and yellow/gray wires is .4ohms ( so okay).
2. also not shorting to ground

Rectifier:
took wires off the rectifier and did the check with the ohm meter to ground...switching the ohm meter leads for each wire...
yellow wire to ground has ohm reading with tester leads both ways.
yellow gray wire has no reading either way the tester leads are...

...so bad rectifier?
...have I found possibly why my tach does not work?

to add to my confusion...I am trying to trace my wiring to make sure all is connected...it is not. I have continuity to the gray wire off the tach to a wire laying in the engine well...
and continuity from the gray on the terminal block to the plug on the back of the throttle control...
but apparently I am missing a cable that plugs from the back of the throttle control to the wires in the engine compartment???




Modified by delee36 at 11:10 AM 4/14/2010

[Crosbyman]

http://openbookproject.net/ele...64133

see articles on various electronic functions...

full wave rectifiers are very simple devices ...typically if you have a Radio Shack like module with 4 pins.

- two are inputs from the Stator furnishing an alternating current so either
wire is fine on either pins since tthe current alternates anyway.

- one pin is the rectified output as +12 volts
- one pin is the negative which ends up as frame ground on the engine body.

tesing the full wave rectifier is a simple diode check to ensure that close to 0 ohms (short with maximum conductivity) are present when measured from AC input points to the +12 volts output point.. in one direction only

reversing your ohmeter leads at the same check points will produce high infinite resistance (open) since the ohmter's internal test voltage can not flow backwards across the diode under test. You may want to test the ground pin with the same test (results will be the same but backwards since you will be testing the reverse function of the diode bridge network )

btw Radio Shack full wave diode rectifiers can work fine ... just use the ones with the 50 amp rating and mount them to dissipate ant heat they generate


you can also just buy the 3$ RS unit ( small square unit with 4 pins) to TEST your problem with by substituting ... then,,, if your problem is solved and you do not like the RS solution you can the go buy yourself the manuf's unit at full price.