unhooking vro 150 e rude

[okiebass]

i am thinking of unhooking vro on 1992 evinrude 150 carb model---dont know if i
want to trust it anymore--no big deal to me to just mix oil---what is involved in
doing this? thanks

[ChampioNman]

Welcome to the boards, do a search as it has been discussed ad nauseum.

[okiebass]

thanks for response---but i am new here & guess a little dense---dont know what
you mean

[rude power]

search..... top right side of page,lots of info on it there, but if it was me I"d keep it hooked up,I just sold a 93,150 rude with it ,and never a problem with it..

[ChampioNman]

Here click on this link. http://www.bbcboards.net...70507

[okiebass]

thanks guys---what does everyone else think about unhhoking or leaving as is
reason i ask is i had couple of friends with earlier(mid 80's) models blow engines
because of vro---i just bought this boat few months ago---92 285 stratos---awesome condition---got a great deal 3500.oo---boat is very nice---no fading
very few sctatches---seats great trailer great too----so that vro is only consern.
bought boat from older retired guy--hardly been used he just didnt fish much anymore---had to drive 500 miles but worth it---once again is this newer vro ok
thanks!

[okiebass]

hey i looked under search & wow this is a popular subject isnt it?
i was just curious---thanks guys

[Bassmeister]

The most reliable oiling system on the market in my book. A lot of the so called vro failures were only one cylinder, If the vro goes it's the whole engine. Guys running engines that have sat for years with gummed up carbs,overheat,etc is usually the REAL problem....JMHO.

[J E R E M Y]

keep it, you'll be happier


and save money

[okiebass]

ok thanks---lots of good advise

[juanjuice]

they are good im pretty sure you have the vro 2 im kinda like you i have a 1988 150 with the vro 2 but i did un hook it i thought about if i were runnin it wot and for some reason my warnning horns are not working you no the rest plus from doing some research i think its best because your cylinders stay lubed at max 50 to 1 oil ratio it is a known fact that 50 to 1 mixture cylinders walls last alot longer than oil injected you will spend a little more with pre mixing but im not worried about it going out and spending 2 to 3000 for a rebuild or another motor if i throw a rod through the block

[noelm]

the way I see it, if you are worried about the chance that the warning alarm does not work, then you might as well remove the starter motor as well and pull start it (you never know when it might break) then take off the hydraulic steering and hook up a tiller (you never know when it might break), lock the gears in forward, (just incase the cable fails) there comes a time when you have take just a very tiny chance in life, live on the edge and trust your well maintained equipment!

[J E R E M Y]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanjuice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are good im pretty sure you have the vro 2 im kinda like you i have a 1988 150 with the vro 2 but i did un hook it i thought about if i were runnin it wot and for some reason my warnning horns are not working you no the rest plus from doing some research i think its best because your cylinders stay lubed at max 50 to 1 oil ratio it is a known fact that 50 to 1 mixture cylinders walls last alot longer than oil injected you will spend a little more with pre mixing but im not worried about it going out and spending 2 to 3000 for a rebuild or another motor if i throw a rod through the block</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure your horns work with periodic checks, and you wont have that worry
as far as your theory of an engine lasting longer with 50:1 mixture, if your vro is working properly its mixing at, guess what 50:1. so your engine will last just as long.
a 2 cycle engine dosent need a 50:1 mixture all the time, 800 rpm's or even 2500 rpm's a vro oiler provides the porper mixture at the rpms being applied.


they are imo as well as others on here the most trust worthy, simple and best oiler on the market for the carbed engines.

[okiebass]

thanks--how do you check horns---new to me on e rude motor---had yamaha on
last boat

[ChampioNman]

Disconnect the tan wires on both cylinder heads, make a jumper wire and insert it into the motor side connector. Turn the key to on and touch the wire to the block the alarm should sound. Those would be for your overtemp alarms. Next find the 4 wire harness that comes from the VRO to the pack disconnect it and find the tan wire and repeat that would be for NO OIL, find the harness from the oil tank disconnect the brown/tan wire and ground it that is the LOW oil alarm. Look near your VRO you will see a small fuel line leading to a 1/2 dollar size plastic round switch with two wires on it tan and black, ground the tan wire that is your vacuum switch that comes on over 3500-4000 rpm and lets you know you have a fuel delivery issue.
When you turn your key to on with all the sensors connected the horn will sound briefly if not you may need a new horn. Those are all the sensors on your motor.

[juanjuice]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J E R E M Y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

make sure your horns work with periodic checks, and you wont have that worry
as far as your theory of an engine lasting longer with 50:1 mixture, if your vro is working properly its mixing at, guess what 50:1. so your engine will last just as long.
a 2 cycle engine dosent need a 50:1 mixture all the time, 800 rpm's or even 2500 rpm's a vro oiler provides the porper mixture at the rpms being applied.


they are imo as well as others on here the most trust worthy, simple and best oiler on the market for the carbed engines.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

[juanjuice]

at wot the vro system is mixing your motor at 50:1 at idle or mid range it is not correct soin that case if your running wot backto mid then back to wot causing heat right so if you had at wot open mix already you wouldnt have to worry about that im not takeing anything awy from the vro but its simple mixing is safer and better

[Scotty B]

Ya thats fine but you will be using more oil than nessesary and you also run the chance of fouling your plugs when idling around with a 50/1 mixture when it's not needed. VRO Variable ratio oiling

[FloridaNative]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J E R E M Y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

make sure your horns work with periodic checks, and you wont have that worry
as far as your theory of an engine lasting longer with 50:1 mixture, if your vro is working properly its mixing at, guess what 50:1. so your engine will last just as long.
a 2 cycle engine dosent need a 50:1 mixture all the time, 800 rpm's or even 2500 rpm's a vro oiler provides the porper mixture at the rpms being applied.


they are imo as well as others on here the most trust worthy, simple and best oiler on the market for the carbed engines.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
New VRO pumps mix at 40:1 at all RPM ranges. They are no longer 'variable'. As to older ones I believe its 150:1 at idle and 40:1 at wot. As to wether or not you should unhook your VRO. I believe so. But this is coming from a guy that just had a year and a half old VRO fail and blow the motor. Scorred all 6 cylinders. The worst thing about the VRO is it mixes both gas and oil in the pump. The sensor is after they are mixed so if your oil side goes out and it keeps pumping gas the alarm may not sound. as it didnt for me. This is the second VRO thats failed for me.

[Jim285pro]

What kind of oil do you run Floridanative?