Color preserver brand and method...

[TonyMc]

Alright guys.
We have a couple threads going on finish brands and techniques.
As we all know color preserver is the bane of rod building.
What do you guys do to keep the bubbles and discoloration at bay?
I use flexcoat
I like to mix mine (eyeballed) at about 20% preserver 80% warmed distilled water.
I'll let the "chunks" settle to the bottom then drain the liquid off the top to use discarding the chunky, unmixed stuff.
I usually apply one coat to guide wraps and two coats on diamond wraps and let dry for a full 24 hrs.


Modified by TonyMc at 7:16 PM 7/3/2008

[Bassn81]

I dont tend to use CP too often. When I do I usually use the LS stuff. I have some Threadmaster CP on order to try that. One thing to keep in mind is that you arent really doing yourself a favor by thining CP. It is already thinned to what it needs. Just be carefull to remove any chuncks if they end up on the threads. you just need a good wet coat for it to do its job. Most of the time if you get blotchy wraps from CP it wasnt the CP but a lack of good thread packing. The CP lets this show more than when not using CP.

[George Roth]

I use color preserver on almost all of my guide wraps. I also use the LS at its mormal strength. I agree with Scott that you don't gain anything by thinning it. Yes, you may get better penetration, but you don't achieve the purpose of preserving the color of the thread. Also, not packing the threads tightly will result in a splotchy appearing wrap that looks aweful. I've done some of those...then remove them and rewrapped them.

I also have some of the new Threadmaster color preserver on order. Andy says that it will be better than anything else on the market. So far, his finish and adhesives have performed admireably.

Good luck......George

[TonyMc]

I'll have to try the LS. I take it that it's a U-40 product?
The Flexcoat is thick and needs thinning imho otherwise it whitens the thread.
I hear you on thread pack. It is imperative to have a tight pack on threads because the CP will loosen them. Not to critical on guide wraps, but makes all the difference on decorative wraps.
Have you, George or Scott, finished a wrap without CP? I hear it gives the thread a "transparent" look.

[Bassn81]

Tony,

I do most of my wraps without CP simply because most of my customers want black. It doesnt necisarilly make the thread transparant, it just soaks through and usually darkens a light color. The LS is a U-40 product.

[shfishinsticks]

I used 811 til they changed formulas. 2 coats (1 flood coat, 1 thin coat) I still have about half a bottle for emergencies.

Just did my first 2 rods with the new Threadmaster Chromaseal. After coating 1 wrap with it, I was reluctant to do the rest. It is kinda milky purple/blue, like skim milk, but a little thicker. I let the first wrap dry and inspected it. I was amazed how much it looked like the spool color. Instructions said to apply 2 or 3 coats. I applied a flood coat for the first, then 2 thinner coats. let dry overnight and applied my finish. It really does retain the spool color very well. There are no specks or off-color spots at all.

I would recommend giving Chromaseal a try.

[Chris Davis]

I've begun using the Chromaseal by Lamar products. Color retention is much better than the FC I've used in the past. Goes on very smoothly-dries slowly enough that you can get smooth, even coat. FC would start to dry before you could get back around to where you started coating. Let a drop of FC sit more than a few seconds and would start to dry, leaving a ring. I do not thin it. One coat for me. The ThreadMaster finishes are excellent as well.

[shfishinsticks]

Let me rephrase that. I mean lighter coats, not thinner. I do not thin Chromaseal either.