Rod Finish Question

[C-Man]

Guys,

I attempted my first rod finish application tonight but I have a couple of questions, I am currently using Thread Master finish. Here is what I did:

1) Heated up the resin & hardener (placed hot water in the microwave for about 2 minutes then placed the tubes in the water for about 5 minutes)

2) Used Flexcoat syringes to mix the finish. Mixed 6 ml or Resin and 6 ml of Hardener (it made more than I thought, just didn't want to run out)

3) Heated up a plate in the oven and also placed a cup of foil in the oven for about 10 minutes, then mixed the epoxy and hardener (50/50) in the foil.

4) Used a #4 Sapphire S60 brush to apply the finish and used a lighter to even the finish (the heat was the ticket!!!)

5) I did the area in front of the foregrip first and then started with the area between the split grip, here is where my problems begin, the finish began to harden, not quite sure why it harden so quickly, as I indicated before this is my firs time and I am not sure what to expect. I am gad I wasn't doing a whole rod otherwise I would have been in trouble with the finish hardening quickly.

Questions:
1) How much should I mix at the time?

2) Any tricks to keep the finish working time longer?

3) What is the expected finish working time?

4) How do I get a "streight" bead at the end of the fisnish application (between the finish and the blank)?

Thanks in advance, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[trapshot100]

NEVER NEVER heat the hardner, you can warm resin a little. what i like to do as rod is rotating put your finish on than w alcohol lamp pass the flame under the finish this will help spread it, it helps you move the finish take off any excess. you will be left with a nice level finish. I have always used U40 but the flex coat is just as good just make sure to use equal parts. the finish is gloss and never any air bubbles. If you just apply the finish to the end of your wrap you will see the finish roll right the edge when you run the flame under it. just remember to keep flame a couple inches away and always moving. Also 3mi. of finish will complete an average 6-7' blank. good luck

[jimmy7]

you heated your resin and hardener WAY too much!

threadmaster really doesnt need to be heat too much... 80 F is all you need and you get good pot life

[richard stone]

Mixing it out on the hot plate didn't help either. For shure too much heat. What did you mean by getting a straight bead??

[C-Man]

What I mean on a "straight bead" is the are between the finish and the blank...mine is not very clean...

[trapshot100]

I'm not sure what you mean , but if its the finish on the end of wraps , being you are new to this and need pactice, just masking tape off a 1/4 inch pass wraps apply your finish. once your finish is on remove tape and use your lamp like I explanned before, this will leave you and nice stright line. dont try and be perfect with the bush, I have finish some of my rod with a popicle stick and tooth pick it will not effect the finish, when you are using the flame you'll see the excess run off. have fun!

[RonsRodShop]

I keep my finish {Diamond 2} on the top shelf {heat rises} in my shop and its always warm enough to mix no heat needed and more than enough working time.

Ron

[Rob98682]

if you need the finish thinner to work with you are better off to apply it to the rod thick then heat it up with an alchohol burner then brush it flat...

[trapshot100]

c-man how did your rod come out

ed