Deep Cranking (southern lakes)

[Louie]

So as fish are starting to move out of the coves and into more open water I hope to sharpen my deep cranking skills. I would like to target and catch fish in 15+ feet of water. Ive already seen some shad balls out in those depth ranges, and assume the fish are to follow after this spawn. I fish Lake Wylie nc/sc primarily. I have been able to find fish last year around bridge pylons and get bit on a spinner bait in those depths. But have had little success with deep cranks. Any recommendations on everything from gear to target areas would be much appreciated

[Louie]

no one? to the top

[rodbender1]

Get you a good rod that will allow you to make extra long cast and absorb the "pressure" those big cranks put on you. Several manufactures make excellent deep cranking rods. I am recommending CastAways DD22 special MHC710
a 7'10" MH rod with a special tip for long cast and durability, also very light weight so you can throw it all day. For those big deep cranks make sure you have low speed reel in the 5 to 1 range, metal frame construction. I like to thow off humps, deep points and channel bends here in our East Texas lakes. In the river impoundments, ledge fishing is very productive especially if current is present. I like 12 - 15 lb flourocarbon line, I am currently using Hi-Seas, but have used BPS xp line, seaguar, and Berkley 100% with good luck.

Good luck

[Louie]

sweet, thanks for the info, I was looking at a 7'6" shimano clarus the other day for big cranks, I also have a older quantum energy (puke green) that is 5.3:1 Ill have to get it set up, plan on fishing Sat/ Sun.
update- ended up witha 7'11" shimano clarus med, fast. I also putta older johnny morris I had laying around on it, 5.3:1 witha deep spool. Should rocket those baits this weekend.


Modified by Louie at 7:43 AM 5/7/2010

[Datdude48]

Im no deep crank expert but I like the Bomber and Strike King size 6 cranks in various colors. For the rod, a American All Star David Fritts edition cranking rod can not be beat. Great price also! I like 12-15 lb floro but am experimenting with brands. Pline was my line of choice previously. Kinda still is. If fishing the Floro, I would suggest not using polamar knots. Use a version of the clinch knot. Havent experienced half the breaks since switching!

WET and Tight Lines!

[Louie]

you really like the clinch knot? I thought that fluoro got hot when making knots and the polymer was the best because of how simple it is... Ive not had many problems with it on smaller cranks using 15# 100% trilene flouro
http://www.animatedknots.com/

[Datdude48]

I started to stop using Floro bc of the amount of break offs I was having. I kept the line wet and pulled slowly but I had to many breaks. Since changing, I have not broken 1 fish off. the reversed clinch I use wraps around the eye twice and wraps the line 3 times, loops through the eye loop and wrap loop for a super secure knot! Love it. Found it on knot wars!

[Datdude48]

Almost Identical to the Trilene knot from the link you posted

[wwc3]

I have switched to the new P-line EVOLUTION line for all my cranking. Casts a lot better than flourocarbon for me.

[Ridge Runner_20]

Louie,

Deep cranking is very popular out West in the summer and fall as well. My favorite setup is a BPS Crankin' Stick (7'6" MH action), Quantum PT reel (5.1:1 ratio) and 10# Yo-Zuri Hybrid line (the 10# line allows for both longer casts and a deeper running bait). I love the Hybrid line because it's fluorocarbon coated nylon, and IMHO, not as finicky as pure flouro. You can also use the Palomar knot with no problems, and even 10# is very strong and abrasion resistent.

As for baits, I love the Norman DD22 series. My favorites for shad lakes are Lavender Shad, Black Splatterback and Bumblebee. I also like the Bomber Fat Free Shad in the Citrus Shad and Emerald Sparkle colors. I'll usually have one rod tied with the DD22 and one with the Fat Free Shad, and let the fish tell me which they prefer that day.

IMO, the whole key to successful cranking is getting the bait to dive at least 1' deeper than the structure you're fishing. Being able to drive the bait into a deep ledge, rockpile, stump, etc., can really trigger a ferocious strike when the bait darts, stops or deflects off the cover/structure. In any case, adjust your bait and line according to the depth you're fishing. The baits mentioned above will work very well in the 10'-18' range.

Good luck!

RR_20

[Louie]

Thanks for all the help you guys, got out there this weekend, threw a brim colored dd22 a little sat. with no luck and no confidence. Stuck to it sunday after noon from 12-3 I put 4 in the boat on it. Using a 7'11" shimano clarus, 5.3:1 older johnnymorris reel, and that new stren 15# 100% fluoro, that lines not bad, I normally use the trilene but they were out and this is 1/2 the price, feels more limp also. I targeted drops near the shore, 10-20' deep and stuck the rod down deep to hit bottom really good, got 2 on a point, and 2 more around a bridge. Sure is fun yanking them from the deep with 40 yards of line out. Most the fish are moving out on my lake, all the fish I caught had marks from the bed. One fish was close to 3# and felt like a monster on that fast rod :)

[ndietiker]

As the summer progresses and fish move deeper try stepping down to 10lb. line it will give you a couple more feet of depth on those long casts.

[henry900bass]

I like to use Spro little john DD for 15 to 18 FOW with 14lbs test yo-zuri 100% fluorocaben seems to work very well...most pll are useing 5.0:1 ratio but i personnally use 7 0:1 ratio, I just reel it a little bit slower then normal and when reeling fast u can stop and go as well.....