I have had the worst time with Fluorocarbon line. Because of the line memory I keep get backlashes, etc. Any advice? Should I give up and just use braided and Mono?
I have had the worst time with Fluorocarbon line. Because of the line memory I keep get backlashes, etc. Any advice? Should I give up and just use braided and Mono?
They say that some of the pure floro lines are a lot better than others. I have never used a pure floro line that I thought handled that good. Guess I may have not tried the right one yet?
There is an alternative. P-Line makes (2) flourocarbon coated lines that handle very well. (Flouroclear, and CX Premium). I use both of them a lot, and really like them. Of coarse there are other people on here that absolutely hate them. They work well for me in many presentations. I mainly use the 12#, & 15# in both of them. They are not the best choice for all presentations, and fishing conditions. But, They work well for quite a few, and handle as good as any line I have ever tried. Just my humble opinion.
try Pline Halo its a little more $$ than the normal Pline Floro but its tons bettergreat stuff
if you can find some KVD line treatment it will help 100% on any floro.
I use P-line, floroclear for cranks and 100% for c-rig and halo for pitching/flipping.
good luck
Danny
fishcraze.com
kicknbass.com<The Shizzle
life\'s to short not to fish!
Looking4five,
What is the benefit of the coated lines over mono? Is the memory similar with coated compared to the 100% Fluoro? Just following up because I dumped a ton of money into to Fluoro this year and then have lived through issues on the water with memory. I want to make the right decision before spending again.
Thx
I use Yo-zuri. It's a nylon/floura hybrid...... GREAT line. very little memory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bbbking »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the benefit of the coated lines over mono? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the coated (flourocarbon coated co-polymer) lines are supposed to give you some of the visibility (or invisibility) advantages of the 100% flourocarbon lines. Something to do with the flourocarbon having almost the same light refractury rate as water...Thus making them near invisible when in the water.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bbbking »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the memory similar with coated compared to the 100% Fluoro?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They handle as good, or better than any mono line that I have used to date, when compairing the same line diameters. They both have very little memory when compairing them to any line of the same diameter. The "CX Premium" lines run slightly smaller diameter than the "Floroclear" lines do of equal # rating.
As I said before...Some people love it, and others hate it. Just like pretty much everything else we fishermen buy & use. I have heard people say they hated it due to excessive stretch, others say it's not abrasion resistant enough, etc, etc.
I have had very good luck with both of the coated lines (Not saying that I have never broken off a fish before). But I have broken off a fish, or two with pretty much every line I have ever used. Neither of the coated lines will break the bank. You can buy the Floroclear in 600 yard spools for about $14, and the CX Premium in 1000 yard spools for about $22.
They may not be what you are needing. But, they may be worth a try.
Good luck finding what you need.
is fluorclear a bps product or p-line?? .... i am having a hard time with fluor but i bought that damned vanish in 12lb in combo with power pro braid for my C-rig and breaks alot. any suggestions?? and yeah the memory sucks..
I use the vanish..I dont have any problems casting. I do have alot of line breaks and I have been told its because Im not tieing the knot right..They say if the line gets to hot it tends to break. Most of the time it gets to hot while cenching the line up. I am probably fixing to switch to P-Line.
i wont use vanish anymore. as a matter of fact ill toss it as soon as i get home and go back to mono.
I use Seagaur flourocarbine for all my fishing except on spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and topwater. (I'm primarily a jig fisherman.) I use 12# test line on my baitcasters and 8# line on spinning. I'm trying the Seagaur InvisX this weekend on my spinning reels and may switch over to it, if I like it. It's limper than their regular Carbon Pro. I'll never use anything other than fluoro for my jig, worm, or tube fishing again.
Jim
InvisX is the Fluorocarbon line that I have been using. What is the secret? I have been spraying a ton of Reel Magic on it, ran the line out behind my boat but still run into issues. What am I doing wrong? I chose Seagaur because everyone rates it pretty highly. Should I just assume that all Fluorocarbon has memory that makes it hard to work with?
i think that would be safe to say in my experience.. some are better than others though... what gets me is the piss poor knot strength and yeah i use a polamar knot thoroughly wettened when made and still get break offs at the knot. so ill keep it simple and just use mono
I am a big fan of 100% fluro line and the InvizX is a good choice IMO. Some tips for spinning gear: don't use a small reel (I use 4000 Shimano's), do not overfill the spool, get in the habit of pulling the line tight on the spool before you close the bail, close the bail manually. I use mono backing and about 30 yards of 10# InvizX on my spinning gear. I would not recommend going any higher than 10# on spinning. I have no issues with fluoro on casting gear and use it for everything but topwaters. I use silicon spray found in the auto department at Walmart - much cheaper than Reel Magic. Tie a GOOD Palomar knot. Fluoro requires some adjustments, but is well worth the effort. Good luck!
I wont use anything else but berkly vanish especially in the spring when the bite is subtle. Its very sensitive. Perhaps you are spooling your real up to much.
For what it's worth...
I sat in on one of Ike's seminars at Bassarama in January. He addressed the breakage problem with fluoro and the Palomar knot.
He claims that the Berkeley researchers told him that the heat generated by tying the Palomar is the culprit. They recommended the improved clinch, which he said he has used ever since with much better results.
I know it's a mixed bag with a lot of folks regarding opinions about him, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
I've experienced the same thing....I tie the palomar differently when using flouro and low lb test mono.
Most guys tie the overhand portion of the knot, cinch it down, loop the hook through , then pull the line through that cinched down overhand knot. Thats a killer with flourocarbon.When I was stationed in Southern California during the early 90's a veteran finesse fisherman saw me tie a palomar that way with 6lb test and commenced to chew my azz!
He then showed how to tie it right with fragile lines....Which is not initially cinching the overhand portion... Use fingers from both hands to pull the loops forward and keep them from crossing pulling ONLY THE TAG END with your teeth. Only pull the main line during the very last cinching. The squiggly, burned tag end is cut off. Tie this well wetted of course.
Been using flourocarbon for 4 years now for all my jig and worm applications and don't have issues.
i have used the clinch knot and the polomar knot with vanish and it still breaks at the knot. sometimes on the line.. vanish sucks imo
You can pull it off and send it to me if you like !!! I like the stuff I have.
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Chad Teel
Whether you think you can, or think you can\'t, you\'re probably right.\"
\"Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy.\" -BF
there are trade offs w/ every type of line. one has to find what properties they want or are willing to deal w/ and use that type of line.i feel the co-polymers are the best all around lines out today.they still have drawbacks and concerns but fit the bill for most applications.the only situation i dont or wont use co-polymers is topwater and cranks.i want the floating and stretch characteristics for those applicatioins.if im fishin crystal clear water like rainbow river then i only use 100%flouro.if im flippin reeds or the narly stuff then i use braid,but for most casting and pitching applications i use co-polymers.silver thread an40 up to 14# and yo-zuri hybrid 14# and up.
Mike Clemons-Lake Butler, Fla..
97 Gambler Intimidater / 200 EFI Merc