Javelin Cap Removal

[MidTenn_Angler]

Has anyone remove the cap on a Javelin? I plan on removing the cap on my 379T to replace the transom and make some other repairs. Looking for advice or photos from others that have done it. Besides the screws around the rail, is the only place I need to cut in the cockpit where it's glasses to the floor?

[Skeet'r89]

I did a Skeeter Starfire hull once some years ago. The front storage compartment bottom was bonded to the hull. My simple solution was to cut at the bottom as close as possible and reglass this area once back together. Also, in the splash well area, the well was bonded to the transom. I know this wasn't a Javelin but maybe it will give you some things to look at/or think about.

[rojoguio]

Lets say you get the cap off. As stated above every one I have removed was glued between the transom & splashwell. Usually the bow compartments are glassed to the floor also, as stated you cut as close to the floor as possible. Several boats have what is called "Tabbing" which is pieces of fiberglass applied between the cap and hull along the sides and especially around the inside aft compartment. Splitting the bond on the transom You really have to take your time there with super-sized wonder bars (what I use) as the filler glue glob is there to fill the gap between the transom and splashwell when the manufacturer sets the cap. Every one I was able to pry loose (poor bond) once I had the rest of the cap loose and lifted up so when I pry the cap can move in relation to the transom. The biggest mistake I see is people cut the splashwell off, you are just making work for yourself later. So back to my opening statement, if you get the cap off it must be stored out of the sun, really supported in "IT's" original shape. In the past I have stored them flat then found out on reinstallation that the slight curve in the cap was the original shape. My advise is to have a plan in place before you start. Have your storage worked out for the cap, hatches, seats, windshield, etc. It takes longer than expected to do the repairs. It's very rewarding to restore a old boat. If you just need to repair the transom I never pull a cap for that. My Champion transom post will walk you thru doing a repair thru the back. It is the fastest, strongest, repair. You end up with 100% bondage and a composite core.

Here is the link to my 17ft Champion https://www.bbcboards.net/showthread...ampion+transom

Ask any questions and I or someone else here will try to answer. Best of luck on your project.

[MidTenn_Angler]

Thanks for info rojoguio! I bought a cheap endoscope with 16ft lead and HD screen off Amazon. This little tool has paid for itself multiple times. Anyway, I went over the boat today, looking under the front and rear decks, console, rod locker, etc. the only places I see the cap glassed to the hull is the perimeter of the cockpit and the aforementioned splash well to transom. My plan is to replace the transom, floor, and waterlogged foam. I also have to remove the tops of the stringers to replace the foam as well. Regarding the cap itself, what’s the best method for storing it as to not cause any damage? It has some decent curves and I definitely don’t want to crack it and cause extra work.

[rojoguio]

Bud what happens is if the sun shines on a cap alone for 1/2 a day it will warp it. You just pay attention to how the cap looks when its off and get it close. Certainly doesn't have to be perfect but close is good. I usually put them on bare tires (no rims) on old boat trailers I have around here. I place scrap wood across the frame to support the tires. There should be pictures of the bare cap in my Blazer VL100 build. Where exactly you would find them I couldn't say you have to thumb thru the pages. My 171SC Champion Cap was upside down for a while when I was removing all the Balsa End Grain scrim blocks. That stuff rots if you sneeze on it. I'm pretty sure both of those show how I picked them up using 2x4's to span the hatch openings supporting the caps out well. Digging a transom out on your knees is trouble. Any hard wood you have cut into small blocks and chip them out, the rotten stuff is easy to get out. You write cutting the tops of the stringers off to clean out foam, your boat has foam filled stringer system?

[MidTenn_Angler]

It has foam filled stringers. I was just as surprised. One of my other posts shows a section of the port stringer with the top removed. All of this because previous owners did not properly seal screws..SMH

[rojoguio]

Is it rigid foam? 4 or 8# foam or flotation grade? Some stringer are designed to have the strength in the glass itself and the foam is just flotation. As I understand it 4# foam has a spine like pine wood. 8# is really tough stuff.

[MidTenn_Angler]

I’m not sure what # foam was used in the stringers. I have some 6# that I was going to fill the small section I removed. Now that I’m removing the cap and replace everything, I’m thinking of using 4#. The glass on the stringer that I cut into is about 1/4” thick, so not sure if the foam was structural. All I know is it soaked up the water and didn’t look like closed-cell foam that I’ve seen in the past. What foam would you recommend for under the floor?

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[rojoguio]

No the foam is not structural it provided to form to lay the glass over. If you look back at my Blazer post I bought a spray in kit that is the same 2# foam OEM manufacturers use. Two little freon jug looking tanks with a spray gun & hose set comes with the kit. I ordered extra tips but didn't need them. Stringers are not supposed to provide a hard line that a stump can crack your fiberglass skin against. Whatever you do keep that in mind. You can do too good a job glassing stringers which makes it much easier to crack the hull skin against them.

[MidTenn_Angler]

Phase 1 complete. I will say, people were not joking about the patience required to separate the cap at the transom... Patience and large pry bars. Specifically the corners of the transom at the sponsons. The bedding compound they use in those tight spaces, I couldn't get.ant type of saw or rotary tool in there. I placed a piece of 1" wood in each outer corner between the cap and hull to apply pressure. This gave me enough room to get my 42" pry bar into the joint and slowly apply pressure to break the joint. After that, cap lifted right off without issue.

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[Javelin389]

Good to see that you're going to fix her up right

While I can't offer much advice at all in this area, please keep us updated on your progress.

[rojoguio]

The Wonder Bars I use are 26 inches long and have just the right flat bend to slide in the tight areas of Cap to Transom. That filler is just thickened fibers to a paste. It sticks enough to prevent the parts from having movement but working the joint every one has popped free. People who cut off their splashwell make a mess to fix later.

[MidTenn_Angler]

Well...weather hasn't been cooperating this past week. I managed to removed the floor and foam. As expected, foam was wet up to halfway under the deck. Unfortunately a downpour came before I could get things covered, so now I have more water.than when I started...LOL. Lastly, I managed to get the transom out this evening, which was worse than I thought. More to come as I continue to chip away at it.

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[rojoguio]

Keep something in mind while removing parts laminated in. Hulls can sag on the trailer with the cap off. Support it very well between the trailer and hull. I use old tires without rims. Trusting just the bunk boards supporting the hull and your boat is out in the hot sun it is not a good plan. I used a combination of the trailer bunks, tires, wood blocks etc supporting the aft corners well. Your weight if the glass is hot from the sun can warp it while your inside working on it.

[MidTenn_Angler]

You make a good point rojo. I was actually thinking about that this evening. I will add some blocking and see if I can find some old tires. My plan is to glass in the new transom, then attack the foam filled box supports in the corner. Lastly, I will remove the stringer caps and foam, then glass the caps back on. I’m not going to remove all structural components at once, in hopes of mitigating as much warping and movement as possible.