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  1. #1

    Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP!

    I am refitting an old 362V Ranger and have installed a 2000 ficht 150 on it. I was changing from a surface box style shifter to a flush mount model. In hooking up the new wiring I was testing to see if the in dash ignition switch would spin the starter and BAM, it started but would not shut down! After about 2.5 minutes I finally got it shut down, I know the impeller is shot so I was going to pull the Lower unit and after getting all of the bolts out it dropped about 1.25 inches and would come no further. I guess it could be the drive shaft or the shift shaft sticking, any ideas anyone?

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    ky
    Posts
    2,959
    #2

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (Crawfish)

    i don't know 100% on the fich but look under the front of the motor,you'll see an aluminun bracket the the shifter shaft bolts too..follow the shaft from the cable adjuster youll see it,,directly under where the carbs would be on acrbed motor.

  3. #3

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (hulapopr)

    "i don't know 100% on the fich but look under the front of the motor,you'll see an aluminun bracket the the shifter shaft bolts too..follow the shaft from the cable adjuster youll see it,,directly under where the carbs would be on acrbed motor.save a bass,eat a walleye.."

    Thanks, but I have had this LU of to replace the impeller a couple times and never had a problem before, It did not run long enough to get hot so I don't think that is a problem...

  4. #4

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (Crawfish)

    Sorry, I am at work and will get the motor model and serial numbers and post them tonight...

  5. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,195
    #5

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (Crawfish)

    Shift motor to reverse. disconnect linkage arm near front of motor and remove 1 cotter pin and 1 hitch pin under throttle bodies. Loosen 7/16" bolt on shift pin and slide linkage to left. shift rod is now free. 4 9/16" bolts on either side of cavitation plate. 1 additional 9/16" under torque tab. 1 5/8" just ahead of it. Should come right out. You may want to take off the prop to remove some weight.

  6. #6

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (ChampioNman)

    Model number is J150ILECR
    s/n is G04448445

    This is a 1998 with a full dressed 2000 power head installed in Feb of 2000. Thanks ChampionMan, I was just looking at it and after oulling air handler I could see what you meant... I will let you know how it goes. Do not suppose you would know why it would not shut off with the key? The buzzer works and the "smart" guage goes through it's chek sequence normally.

  7. #7

    Re: Problem removing OMC lower unit, HELP! (Crawfish)

    Hey ChampioMan, got her off and the impeller was a hand full of rubber chips! I will have to get a water pump kit, anything else I should do while I have it off?

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